Raptor 4x4 Alloy Wheel Spacer Kit 30mm Freelander 1
Raptor 4x4 + 30mm Aluminium Wheel Spacers x4 for Land Rover Freelander 1

These Raptor 4x4 30mm aluminium wheel spacers give an additional 60mm track width to your Land Rover, they offer great improvements in handling, cornering and stability as well as a reduced turning circle.

Constructed from high quality aircraft grade aluminium, these spacers weigh in at approx. 9kg, less than steel spacers and do not affect your wheel balance.


The opportunity to fit larger rims and tyres due to the increased steering lock is a bonus not to mention the improved wide track look to the vehicle.

Complete set of 4 spacers including nuts.

To Fit - Land Rover Freelander 1

Product Code: TY05452 From ishop247-net
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I do like the stance they give the vehicle on standard wheels :)

Interestingly, spacers are illegal in many countries (e.g. Australia). They increase wheel bearing loads and can lead to premature wheel bearing failure...

I think that wider wheels that don't increase the scrub radius (which spacers will - and can therefore lead to increased tramlining and steering kick-back) would be a better option. I've often toyed with getting a set of modular wheels with taller & fatter tyres to give the car the true "Tonka Toy" look - but there's always some more repairs to be done first! LOL
 
Interestingly, spacers are illegal in many countries (e.g. Australia). They increase wheel bearing loads and can lead to premature wheel bearing failure...
I don't like spacers at all, but then I've been in a car when one has failed.

I know of a couple of instances, where insurance has been refused as spacers were fitted.

They also increase wheel bearing loads, as the wheel centre line is moved outwards.
 
OK Guys! Bought these on the way home from work today and fitted them in just about an hour. got the air jack out lifted the front easy!
These were recommended but a bit pricey at a £39 pair but check the logo they are supplier to NASCAR so finger crossed!
Just look at the state of the the drop links I fitted 12 months ago, completely shagged and rattled like F##K but now ahhhh silence is golden! No more rattles!

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Mmmm There's always one smart ass who thinks there's a quicker/better way...As it happens I don't have a hydraulic ramp which would make life simples!
...try changing these without removing the front wheels and let me know how long it takes???
 
Mmmm There's always one smart ass who thinks there's a quicker/better way...As it happens I don't have a hydraulic ramp which would make life simples!
...try changing these without removing the front wheels and let me know how long it takes???
Don't need to be smart, just experienced. ;) Changed hundreds of them over the years. There's absolutely no need to remove the wheels, or lift the car off the ground. Just turn the steering full right lock, then change the RH drop link. Swing the steering full left lock, then change the LH drop link. Because the vehicle is on the floor, there's no fighting the spring of the ARB

Although if the drop links are rusted solid, then removing the wheels may well be necessary, but 99% of the time, it's not needed. ;)
 
I don't have that experience so for me it's easier to put the air jack under the front, lift the whole front end remove both front wheels and swap the links, pushing the ARB down is easy with a 1200mm length of 50mm x 100mm and the fat bloke from next door!!!
 
When I've changed the links (and I've done this twice now!) leaving the wheels on the ground is definitely the way forward, as it takes all the load out of the anti-roll bar. You just need to turn the wheels to full lock to get unhindered access :D
 
When I've changed the links (and I've done this twice now!) leaving the wheels on the ground is definitely the way forward, as it takes all the load out of the anti-roll bar. You just need to turn the wheels to full lock to get unhindered access :D
or jacking both wheels up, as long as both wheels have equal load
 

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