foss

New Member

• Aug 2, 2010

• #1

Has anyone any tips on getting the new gaiter on ? I can't get the bugger over the lip to put the clip on.
Was thinking boiling water first ?

 

B

bmp42

Active Member

• Aug 2, 2010

• #2

boiling water is the only way - but make sure no water is inside before fitting

 

123-eddy09

Active Member

• Aug 2, 2010

• #3

Have you tried putting a part of the boot over the lip then screwing the boot round. Make sure you have plenty of grease one and in the boot as this will aid getting the boot to go on and prevent ripping it. This is the way I did mine.
Cheers eddy

 

Shifty1962

Well-Known Member

• Aug 2, 2010

• #4

Where did you get the new gaiter from or have you changed out the whole ball joint or arm? I've been looking for a source of the gaiters for a long time as they are always a weak point and an MOT fail when split or damaged even though the ball joints are in perfect condition.

 

slim jim

Active Member

• Aug 2, 2010

• #5

Turn the gaiter inside out and it will just flip over the ball joint when you pull it back over,

 

foss

New Member

• Aug 3, 2010

• #6

Cool...ill try them all tonight !

Shifty...I get them at work...I am just doing the gaiter

 

B

bmp42

Active Member

• Aug 3, 2010

• #7

Shifty1962 said:

Where did you get the new gaiter from or have you changed out the whole ball joint or arm? I've been looking for a source of the gaiters for a long time as they are always a weak point and an MOT fail when split or damaged even though the ball joints are in perfect condition.

Click to expand...

not an MOT fail - only an advisery, unless wear/play is evident

 

foss

New Member

• Aug 3, 2010

• #8

Thanks for the tips fellas...used a combo of them all in the end.
Now have very sore thumbs from the spring clip !

BUT...I have a new issue !

The nut does up so far but gets half way down and locks on the thread and the stud rotates too preventing the nut getting tighter...grrrrr...any ideas on how to keep the stud from rotating...I've used loads of grease and held it with pliers but eventually the pliers become too big to fit round the stud the more the nut turns....mad !

 

slim jim

Active Member

• Aug 4, 2010

• #9

You've lost me now and its to late to go and look at mine. Is it not a castle nut that does up to the end of the thread and then you shove a split pin through the bolt?

 

bustersbus

Well-Known Member

• Aug 4, 2010

• #10

Aye usually a castle nut....

Try and pull down on the bracket to stop the 'stud' movin'

 

Last edited: Aug 4, 2010

foss

New Member

• Aug 4, 2010

• #11

Tis same as the pic...but as I'm tightening the nut for some reason its gripping the stud and the stud spins also so the nut won't go down past the split pin hole and leaving the damper bar sloppy...

 

123-eddy09

Active Member

• Aug 4, 2010

• #12

Try pulling down on the damper bar so the damper grips onto the stud then tighten the nut. Also clean the thread and the inside of the nut with some white spirites or similar.

 

foss

New Member

• Aug 4, 2010

• #13

Cheers...ill have a go at that

 

foss

New Member

• Aug 7, 2010

• #14

thank the lord for 45 degree needle nose pliers...hallelujiah!

 

123-eddy09

Active Member

• Aug 7, 2010

• #15

Nice to hear you got it done. Mine took alot longer than I expected cos the collar wouldn't come out of the arm.