pwood999 said:
There is a possibility that the latch internals are in the superlock position. Not 100% sure, but this probably prevents the lever from releasing the latch bar from the shackle. Try unlocking twice with the fob, or failing that apply volts to the superlock motor to release it ?
Click to expand...
I have been playing around with my spare latch: the latch releases when the "two arm" lever rotates to about 50% of it's total movement - it doesn't need anything like full movement to release.
My latch instantly releases fully, whereas you are saying that it releases only to the "first pressure" point? That seems very strange, and also implies that the latch is not actually locked.
My latch: when closing, the latch goes to first position then second position. When unlocking, it goes straight to full open, with no trace at all of the intermediate position.
Just double-checking - the locking / unlocking works as it should apart from the door opening only to the first stage (ie slightly opened a crack). But it locks and unlocks 100% OK apart from that?

But do check that "super lock" test and the "slam solution" as above.
 
marjon said:
I was assuming:rolleyes: that the other doors were opened as covered in the first 4 posts, so not a superlocking issue.
J
Click to expand...
Applying logic like that doesn't always work when dealing with a P38.....
I like the idea of the slam solution - just keep locking / unlocking / pressing firmly shut a few times.
Also, is there any chance that water could have got in there and frozen?
 
P38 Monkey said:
Applying logic like that doesn't always work when dealing with a P38.....
I like the idea of the slam solution - just keep locking / unlocking / pressing firmly shut a few times.
Also, is there any chance that water could have got in there and frozen?
Click to expand...

I tried that option on a running 4.6. guess what it worked yep the door shut, then the car locked me out :eek:.

J
 
From what I remember when it first happened to me someone had said that the 50% latch movement was to prevent the door from opening prematurely. It did require the latch to be fully closed again to reset itself.
 
cornishboater said:
From what I remember when it first happened to me someone had said that the 50% latch movement was to prevent the door from opening prematurely. It did require the latch to be fully closed again to reset itself.
Click to expand...
+1 to above. slamming it shut and trying to reopen may work.
 
Back to the latch problem. Perhaps the motor has failed part way through an operation and left the mechanism in an awkward position.
Does remote locking work on the drivers door? How about the other doors?
If it doesn't work at all, it can be reset - but what is the current status of remote locking (and what year is the P38?)
 
Thanks for all replies. Yes remote works tried locking and unlocking with remote several time and slaming door shut even got a metal bar down and hit the lock a few times. Now looking like I'm going to have to cut the striker to get the door open so I can get proper access to the lock. Will have to source a new striker first though. Local scrappy has a p38 in so will have to go and see if it still there. Will keep you posted as to the outcome
 
stemac33 said:
Thanks for all replies. Yes remote works tried locking and unlocking with remote several time and slaming door shut even got a metal bar down and hit the lock a few times. Now looking like I'm going to have to cut the striker to get the door open so I can get proper access to the lock. Will have to source a new striker first though. Local scrappy has a p38 in so will have to go and see if it still there. Will keep you posted as to the outcome
Click to expand...
The attached procedure for testing a latch might be useful.
(Courtesy of Marty UK)
 

Attachments

  • P38 Door Latch Tests.pdf
    90.3 KB · Views: 216
Remember when testing locking & unlocking, it's always best to keep another door open, but with that latch bar closed using a screwdriver. That way the car thinks all doors are closed, but you still have an entry point.
 
stemac33 said:
Thanks for all replies. Yes remote works tried locking and unlocking with remote several time and slaming door shut even got a metal bar down and hit the lock a few times. Now looking like I'm going to have to cut the striker to get the door open so I can get proper access to the lock. Will have to source a new striker first though. Local scrappy has a p38 in so will have to go and see if it still there. Will keep you posted as to the outcome
Click to expand...
If you need a new latch, useful to know that the MG-F uses the same ones, and they are typically a lot cheaper than P38 versions on eBay.
The lock motors do tend to burn out.
 
Cheers for the info. Rain, hail and snow stopped play for the time being so when I get chance will have another look at it. Good job I've finished work for Xmas and don't need it at the moment :mad:
 
So eventually got through the sticker plate with hacksaw blade. Got the lock out after a lot of swearing and cursing and a lot of blood. Got it on the bench and tested it as per martys test sheet. All came back OK, so proceeded to dismantle the lock and found this bit, it was jamming the latch. And now it won't let me upload a pic say I don't have permission when I click upload a file:mad:
 
Not sure if "sloppy paste" is what I do, but just dragging the picture from the desktop into the draft message works OK.
 
Nope won't let me copy and paste either. Anyway got the lock back in, but when I was clipping the lock bar in I snapped the arm on the lock barrel itself :( so had to bush fix that with a bit of flatbar and a couple of self tappers.
Lock in all fastened up new striker plate and hey presto it's alive:D. Now just got to put the door card, seat and trims back and jobs a good un. When it will let me I will get the pics up, promise. Cheers for all your help.
 
Had a similar problem where door would not open at all. Use a long piece of wire between the window and the inner rubber seal, push down on the plastic part of the lock that the cable for the inner door release is connected to the lock. I had a post on it so look it up. Also use a bright torch to shine down the gap so you can see what you are doing.
 
P38 Monkey said:
Back to the latch problem. Perhaps the motor has failed part way through an operation and left the mechanism in an awkward position.
Does remote locking work on the drivers door? How about the other doors?
If it doesn't work at all, it can be reset - but what is the current status of remote locking (and what year is the P38?)
Click to expand...

Doubt it. The motors are 5V but have a very short 12V pulse to stop them burning out that whips them round very fast causing a peg to extend out and flick the latch into its new position.
 
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