vasimone

vasimone

Active Member
Hey all,

I changed my hub seals yesterday and my mechanic told me the the driving member teeth are all eaten up so I should get another one - few questions:

1-if the driving member has the teeth eaten up, is another part also worth being replaced?

2- what driving member would you suggest buying? worth upgrading to the HD ones like these: https://bearmach.com/heavy-duty-drive-member-nut-br-0465a

Thanks for your support as always!

Cheers

Simone
 
They will be just fine, just remember to grease the splines and the threads on the cap when fitting them
 
Yes. I like those ones with the screw on cap. Generally speaking I find the splines on the drive flange wear a bit faster than the ones on the half shaft, but the latter are not prohibitively expensive to change and will give you a much tighter drivetrain. Less clunk on letting the clutch out too. Those yellow drive flanges are said to have a longer splined section than the conventional ones too, but there's not much in it.
 
I recently replaced mine and went with standard parts. They are the weakest part in the system so there is unlikely to be much if any wear to the half shafts. I decided to stick with the standard rather than upgrade to HD because they are the weakest point in the system. If you replace them with HD then another part becomes the weakest point. I would rather strip/break a drive member which is a very cheap and easy fix, than break a halfshaft or damage the diff. Of course if you are upgrading all part of the drive system to HD then this no longer becomes a problem.
 
The so-called heavy duty ones are still made of softer metal than the half shafts, so they're still the wear component. I just like the design with the screw on cap because it is a more positive location and you can put a drop of EP90 in the cap before assembly to keep the splines moist.
 
Mine is a 1995 110 (VIN: SALLDHMV8TA975201) - the front axle number is: 64I 17310A - what type of flange would I then have? I have already bought a bunch of parts that didn't fit as I didn't do a thorough research before buying - would rather avoid doing the same this time round

I will stick to the standard ones

The OEM is 24 quid for a pair - the Ashcroft one is 36 - worth the difference to get Ashcroft ?

is there a gasket I also need to buy when fitting a new drive flange?

thanks for your support
 
vasimone said:
Mine is a 1995 110 (VIN: SALLDHMV8TA975201) - the front axle number is: 64I 17310A - what type of flange would I then have? I have already bought a bunch of parts that didn't fit as I didn't do a thorough research before buying - would rather avoid doing the same this time round

I will stick to the standard ones

The OEM is 24 quid for a pair - the Ashcroft one is 36 - worth the difference to get Ashcroft ?

is there a gasket I also need to buy when fitting a new drive flange?

thanks for your support
Click to expand...
you need a thin drive member not the one in your first post from bearmach,theres little point unless the cv or half shaft is equally strengthened, ftc5 is std drive member youd need
 
great thanks - always my saver :) ! I need to change the anterior-right one - do i need to also change the one on the left hand-side or can I keep that until it also spoils? cheers!
 
vasimone said:
great thanks - always my saver :) ! I need to change the anterior-right one - do i need to also change the one on the left hand-side or can I keep that until it also spoils? cheers!
Click to expand...
as and needed unlike brake discs, so just one thats necessary
 
this is the previous ones - is it so bad like the mechanic says?
 

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