C

Cosmicroy

Member
Hi all!
I’ve read and watched the dreaded problem on a L322 2003 4.4 where the key won’t turn.
I know it’s been covered quite a bit but I tried the battery removal, fuse 18 to no joy so I got a secondhand column off EBay model QMB000162, that is the model as it looked the same for a 2003 dinosaur or did I buy a superseded old donkey of a column?
So the old was proper dead, no nothing, dead as a dodo. Got the replacement delivered today, hooked up a fully charged newish battery, hooked up the ECU, waited and waited, and got one turn, it all lit up, the old steering column moved, even though not plugged to the existing one.... but it didn’t fire up.
I turned it off and that was it, dead again, no turn at all.
Disconnected the battery, hooked it all up and got one go of a full turn but no fire up of engine, so my guess is that it’s got a duff ECU too the one I got from the scrappers off eBay!
Any views or pointers are grately appreciated, I’m seriously thinking of throwing the towel in on it now, such a pretty car too and gave me a good few years of pleasure..... no doubt I’ll get tuppence selling it as a non runner.
There’s a company that I saw that said they’d repair an ECU for about £500...
I really don’t know if it’s worth it at all....
 
Datatek said:
Jumping to conclusions is an expensive game. You need diagnostics.
Click to expand...
I got my mechanic coming on Saturday and hopefully he’ll hook up his machine and get some fault codes off it, he was going to replace the steering column for me but we’ll get the error codes first! I have that gut feeling it’s going to be expensive!
 
Lesson to be learned : Diagnostics before buying used anything and everything from the bay.

@Saint.V8 , @holidaychicken might shed more light?
BTW hiya you two. Hope you're both ok. Seems we haven't spoken in a while :D
 
Fully charged battery or connect up jump leads to your battery from a running car to make sure you have enough power.
There are a number of systems involved including your key transponder, the receiver around the ignition barrel, the solenoid that unlocks the ignition barrel, the immobiliser ECU, the steering column ECU, the gear selector , the solenoid in the steering column lock and probably more I have forgotten.
I had an immobilised TD6 for a while and although disconnecting and then waiting a while and reconnecting the steering column multi plug would allow me one turn of the key it still wouldn’t start.
Anyhoo, I digress, so battery is first , diagnostics second to give you a clue as already mentioned.

The are a number of last resort bodges if you get really stuck like removing the steering lock pin or connecting up a switch to disconnect the power each time , depending on what else is going on but try and fix it properly to start with.
I need to look up some notes on my pc as I did a load of research regarding this.

When you put the key in to the ignition do you get any clicking from the steering lock ?
 
Thanks for that, there’s no clicking sound or anything or anything with the old one. The replacement one when plugged in made no sound but after a while it allowed me to turn the key but not to turn over the starter motor.
I appreciate you giving me pointers for my mechanic when he visits.
 
Hi,
I have been researching this in depth over the last few months, since I had steering column problems with my '07 td8 Vogue. My problems were solved by something totally unrelated (FBH), but I have read pretty much every word on the subject that can be found. From your description, my thoughts are that you have two issues, one serous and one less so. The key failing to turn is probably steering column related. A used one off the bay is sadly likely to be duff as well. Also, the correct part number is essential, as there have been several versions over the years. Whichever column you have currently installed, perform the following test: Disconnect battery for a few minutes. Reconnect and insert key and try to turn. If it doesn't turn, pull key out, re-insert and wait and listen. You should at some point over the next 40 seconds or so, hear a faint click. That will be your ignition lock recognising your key and clearing the engine for start. If at this point you are able to turn the key to the start position, a failure to start is indicative of a less serious issue: low voltage or bad engine earth. If your column has the common fault, you will only get one turn of the key for every time you disconnect and reconnect the battery.
 
Bit more info here, I am not convinced the steering column is the problem though, as above, you would normally get one go with a battery disconnect with the common fault.
Have a read of this to give you an idea of what is going on outside of the steering column.
security.jpg


Bit more info here.

https://blackbox-solutions.com/photos/L322lock.pdf

steering lock page 1.JPG
steering lock page 2.JPG
 
Thanks for the info, my gut feeling is that the car is kaput somewhere from the immobilization somewhere as they key turns but died t even make a noise to start the engine.
I haven’t tried it out again as I’ll let my mechanic have a nose and go through a few things with him from the info supplied, I’ll let you know what faults come up and maybe some light can be shed on the problem!
Many thanks once again!
 
If the key or transponder was at fault it wouldn’t turn and even when immobilised it will crank but not start. Ignition barrel or wiring have been known to fail but as said already , battery and diagnostics should always be you starter and main course.
 
Cosmicroy said:
Thanks for the info, my gut feeling is that the car is kaput somewhere from the immobilization somewhere as they key turns but died t even make a noise to start the engine.
I haven’t tried it out again as I’ll let my mechanic have a nose and go through a few things with him from the info supplied, I’ll let you know what faults come up and maybe some light can be shed on the problem!
Many thanks once again!
Click to expand...
That's the answer! Best way to shed light on it is with a gallon of unleaded and a box of Swan Vestas.;)
 
It did cross my mind Tomcat lol!

Right, I had the mechanic round, with the replacement steering column plugged it, I only get the one key turn, so that no doubt is a duff one, I’ll get that returned sheepishly for refund..... the fault came up as ‘ Interface Immobiliser’ whatever that means and another code to do with the airflow meter.
So the dash lights up, but just won’t fire up!
 
It doesn’t necessarily mean the column is duff if you only get one turn, I had that with the TD6 and that was because the key wasn’t programmed to the transponder, the column was fine.
You need the exact detail of the fault code you had read, that is your answer.
If you get one turn but the car doesn’t crank or start then you have another problem as an immobilised 4.4 should crank but not start as the ignition and fuel pump is shut off, the TD6 has the starter motor shut off so won’t crank.
The interface is most likely the code between the EWS immobiliser ECU and Bosch engine ECU needs programming which is a simple job with the right diagnostic kit.
 
Given up now unfortunately, I really appreciate the help and advice. I’ll stick it up for sale as non runner somewhere, beautiful car dressed as 2011 supercharged, sad to see it go......
 
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