I had the same.. But also Nanocom not talking to the ecu. I've put it down to corrosion or dampness.. And currently have the interior stripped to dry out and replace pipes of stuff.
 
domino said:
I had the same.. But also Nanocom not talking to the ecu. I've put it down to corrosion or dampness.. And currently have the interior stripped to dry out and replace pipes of stuff.
Click to expand...
Well, I have to say that Katya (my P38) is no stranger to moisture... I need to get on top of dampness in drivers footwell and boot. I think the passenger footwell is ok though (despite a brush with some bbq sauce !)
 
awkwardbob said:
Aye,

well, emergency valves ordered from Brit-car.

I’m going to make the OBD lead tonight and have a look with the EAS suite to see whether I can reset it.

I do have a spare valve block and, concerningly, a couple of spare EAS ECUs which I’ll look at cleaning up and refurbing. I’m sure there’ll be a guide somewhere. There’s no saying that the valve block isn’t full of the same gunk that the compressor was !

I want to check the tank for leaks and probably change the drier. I guess i just need to work through it methodically
Click to expand...

And.....Hes been bitten by the bug!:p Good luck, glad to hear you made it home ok.

As for the compressor taking breaks in between pumping. I would start with the "door open" test and confirm efficacy of the pump. 7-8 mins from 0PSI is good condition. Really helps to have a inline gauge for diagnostics too.

Also dont forget to say a little prayer to the EAS gods.:D For good measure I made a sacrificial offering of my old coil springs and everything has been going pretty good for me after that...
 
Last edited:
Well Bob, I'd be more than happy to rebuild the pump again if you want to send it to me? Free of charge obviously. I'm planning to order more parts to rebuild my other spare pump so I would be delighted to do it. Only takes half an hour anyway.

I can't believe the bad luck you're having :(
 
awkwardbob said:
Well, I have to say that Katya (my P38) is no stranger to moisture... I need to get on top of dampness in drivers footwell and boot. I think the passenger footwell is ok though (despite a brush with some bbq sauce !)
Click to expand...

I'd say it's we worth taking time to get it properly dry. Carpet in mine was bone dry but the sponge underlay was totally sodden wet.
 
Hey Doo,

it’s all cool, I’ve ordered the kit, it’ll do me good to do it (gotta learn sometime !) although I will undoubtedly post for advice on redoing the air block
And testing the solenoid valves, etc.

given the drier is leaking a little and is only £50 to replace with a new one, I suspect that’s probably worth doing.

Schraeder valves arriving tomorrow and I’ve made the ODB cable for the EAS unlock software -so that’s tonight taken care of !

how do you check the thermal switch ?

I’ll post back with whatever faults EAS unlock finds later tonight. -and then worry about what damage all the vibration has done to
Everything else !
 
awkwardbob said:
Hey Doo,

it’s all cool, I’ve ordered the kit, it’ll do me good to do it (gotta learn sometime !) although I will undoubtedly post for advice on redoing the air block
And testing the solenoid valves, etc.

given the drier is leaking a little and is only £50 to replace with a new one, I suspect that’s probably worth doing.

Schraeder valves arriving tomorrow and I’ve made the ODB cable for the EAS unlock software -so that’s tonight taken care of !

how do you check the thermal switch ?

I’ll post back with whatever faults EAS unlock finds later tonight. -and then worry about what damage all the vibration has done to
Everything else !
Click to expand...
If the pump runs with the orange wire in the pump connection earthed then the thermal switch is knackered.
 
Starting point with EAS is always Wammers guide in the Technical Section.

Get her up to height and pull the delay relay overnight is easiest test. After that you need to start fiddling.
 
Thanks again folks, me I’ll give that a good going over.

mine more thing, if I may. I have made (and tested) a cable for the EAS unlock software, I’ve a d-tech Usb to serial adapter with the correct driver but plugging it into the ODB socket and trying to initialise just gives me PP back in the RX field.
This seems to be a common issue. I know the ODB socket is ok, as Doo’s laptop could speak to it . I’ve double-checked the cable with the multimeter and the pin allocations seem correct.
I’m going to try a different laptop, but, failing that, is it worth buying the new V4 of EAS unlock ? (I’m using the old free one) or is there a better product I should be considering ?

-also any info or advice on the PP error would be most welcome.

thanks again
Bob

(ps Schraeder valves arrive today as a ‘get-out-of-jail)
 
awkwardbob said:
Thanks again folks, me I’ll give that a good going over.

mine more thing, if I may. I have made (and tested) a cable for the EAS unlock software, I’ve a d-tech Usb to serial adapter with the correct driver but plugging it into the ODB socket and trying to initialise just gives me PP back in the RX field.
This seems to be a common issue. I know the ODB socket is ok, as Doo’s laptop could speak to it . I’ve double-checked the cable with the multimeter and the pin allocations seem correct.
I’m going to try a different laptop, but, failing that, is it worth buying the new V4 of EAS unlock ? (I’m using the old free one) or is there a better product I should be considering ?

-also any info or advice on the PP error would be most welcome.

thanks again
Bob

(ps Schraeder valves arrive today as a ‘get-out-of-jail)
Click to expand...
I had trouble with a usb adapter and couldnt connect my Nanocom, @martyuk sorted my problem.
 
Get an FTDI based USB-Serial adapter. It usually works much better than others. I had several generic Chinese cables that give issues in this and other serial applications.
 
Headed there now.
I tried the HQ of FTDI as it was just around the corner but there was no-one at home !
 

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Bob,
When you get the new cable, you need to make sure you uninstall the previous driver, and also do NOT let windows install serial drivers.

Then go to FTDI website and download their driver & install it. This way when you plug in the cable, windows should not try to use it's own version.
 
Holy moly... got the new serial adaptor and the EASunlock is speaking to the EAS but seemed to call up a litany of contradictory faults.

how do I clear them ?



Also... the pump seems to be covered in a light oil that I don’t rememberbeing there before.

Any thoughts ?
 

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