Not sure where you got fluid from?
I do have this habit of not prrof reading what I have typed.

If you meant the C3 bit? that is the spec of oil for cars running cat converters/dpf etc, and confusingly as the number gets lower the olil spec increases, ie C3 ok, C1 the best, but dont use C1 if the car does not spec it.

A dpf will take so many regens then its had it, or been run on the wrong oil/been overfilled with oil/faulty injector etc etc.

I mentiond the engine oil pump as it is a famous fail point on the 2.7 engine.
Not from your post, from the OP ^^
 
Cleaning stuff, not ad blue. The type you pour in the tank

Accourding to my mechanic he did two regenerations. But the messeage about DPF full still comes back.
double the diesel cleaner, fill your tank full with good diesel, Then take it on tthe motor way and drive the nuts off it and shift down a gear and run at max RPM for 50 miles or so. this will get your DPF up to temps and burn it clean, and the exhaust pressure will blow out the carbon/dust in the DPF and your muffer, as well ascleaning your injectors, also change all your fuel filters
 
Last edited:
Even when you get a successful regeneration you will still have ash build up in the cat,
Remove and clean or replace is probably the way to go,
 
Not sure where you got fluid from?
I do have this habit of not prrof reading what I have typed.

If you meant the C3 bit? that is the spec of oil for cars running cat converters/dpf etc, and confusingly as the number gets lower the olil spec increases, ie C3 ok, C1 the best, but dont use C1 if the car does not spec it.

A dpf will take so many regens then its had it, or been run on the wrong oil/been overfilled with oil/faulty injector etc etc.

I mentiond the engine oil pump as it is a famous fail point on the 2.7 engine.

Engine was replaced 25.000 km ago with a refurbised one, with a new oil pump, new timing belt and everything else. New Turbo 20k ago.
 
Even when you get a successful regeneration you will still have ash build up in the cat,
Remove and clean or replace is probably the way to go,
didn't know a diesel had a cat? DPF and muffler yes. I believe the DPF is the desiel=of a cat (like a petrol)
 
No clue, sorry! I'd suggest you need something with a bit more gusto than diesel, there's various off car cleaners on the market, dunno how good they are
 
didn't know a diesel had a cat? DPF and muffler yes. I believe the DPF is the desiel=of a cat (like a petrol)

DOC = diesel oxidiation catylist, first thing in the exhaust pipe, dont think new kit has them anymore but could be wrong, fitted on land rovers from 300tdi onwards, early td5 (Euro2) didnt have them, later ones (Euro3) did.
DPF = diesel particualte filter, this is the one that needs cleaning, from 07 (Euro4) onwards
I think Euro5 was basically Euro4 plus stop/start?
SCR = cat this is the one that transforms the nox using adblue, 2016 (Euro6) onwards, for trucks Euro6 came out in 2014 and has been nothing but a pita ever since.
 
On the subject of engine oil I have a late model defender that specifies WSS M2C913B or C for Non DPF vehicles, and WSS M2C934 B for vehicles fitted with a DPF. I believe these are Ford oil spec reference numbers adopted by JLR. My vehicle has a CAT and a DPF and requires a 5w/30 oil. I have started using as per attachment, its a low SAPS oil for DPF vehicles. DPF regeneration is done automatically by driving at 50+mph for a good distance (italian tune up) - when it needs a regeneration the engine management detects it and will adjust the burn temperature up to clear the DPF. I'll see if I can find some more info on this bit.
 

Attachments

  • ECOLIFE 5:30.pdf
    525.9 KB · Views: 145
On the subject of engine oil I have a late model defender that specifies WSS M2C913B or C for Non DPF vehicles, and WSS M2C934 B for vehicles fitted with a DPF. I believe these are Ford oil spec reference numbers adopted by JLR. My vehicle has a CAT and a DPF and requires a 5w/30 oil. I have started using as per attachment, its a low SAPS oil for DPF vehicles. DPF regeneration is done automatically by driving at 50+mph for a good distance (italian tune up) - when it needs a regeneration the engine management detects it and will adjust the burn temperature up to clear the DPF. I'll see if I can find some more info on this bit.
Please do!

if cant get mine to regen. Will try with the new diagnosis system. But the 2500 rpm for 20 minutes doesnt work for some reason. As I mentioned, my mechanic insisted he did to succesful regens on it. He pointted to the sensor which I changed. So a bit stuck
 
DOC = diesel oxidiation catylist, first thing in the exhaust pipe, dont think new kit has them anymore but could be wrong, fitted on land rovers from 300tdi onwards, early td5 (Euro2) didnt have them, later ones (Euro3) did.
DPF = diesel particualte filter, this is the one that needs cleaning, from 07 (Euro4) onwards
I think Euro5 was basically Euro4 plus stop/start?
SCR = cat this is the one that transforms the nox using adblue, 2016 (Euro6) onwards, for trucks Euro6 came out in 2014 and has been nothing but a pita ever since.

great bit of info ,thks

Is it correct that u can’t blank egrs if there is a DPF fitted , also strange that some of the early 2.7 D4s didn’t have DPFs

Many thks as always
 
Some info attached but note this is defender stuff and not disco. Hopefully of some help.
 

Attachments

  • Defender MY12 Workshop Manual (dragged).pdf
    32.7 KB · Views: 196
  • Defender MY12 Workshop Manual (dragged) 2.pdf
    29.4 KB · Views: 157
  • Defender MY12 Workshop Manual (dragged) 3.pdf
    31.1 KB · Views: 189
  • Defender MY12 Workshop Manual (dragged) 4.pdf
    29 KB · Views: 189
Think I have sorted out how I can clean it if it comes to that, but how do I get it of the car? I have ramps and tools, but any clue from someone who have done it would be greatly appreraciated!
 

Similar threads