Karlos28

Karlos28

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

I recently picked my 04 FL1 up and am working through some issues (my buy or not to buy thread lists most!). The driver's side window regulator was goosed, the motor also appeared dead. I ordered a new regulator and motor to discover, upon testing, that it still won't work...

I spend an hour or so yesterday troubleshooting with the wiring diagrams. All fuses are intact. I found continuity between the plug on the switch in the armrest and the plug in the motor, so I applied 12v and the windows wound down perfectly, and back up when the polarity was reversed.

So the motor and regulator are fine, the problem is car side.. are there any other common failure points? I was thinking the switch pack, but after messing with a multi meter, it seems to be working.

Not sure what else there can be now! It's really annoying getting out of the car to swipe my pass to get into works carpark now!

Any help appreciated as always,
TIA!
 
So if I've understood you correctly you have a circuit (at least from switch to motor) but no power?

As you know the motor and regulator work the problem is going to be in one of the components or the wiring (stating the obvious I know!) so you need to work back from the motor checking you have power at each step.

So check motor to switch, then switch to relay, then relay to CCU (?), CCU to ignition. At some point you will have power in but none out so you can narrow down where the problem is.

This extract might help.

Windows Power for side door window operation is supplied from the window lift relay and, on 5 door models, the sunroof relay,
both located in the passenger compartment fusebox. The CCU controls the relays, which are energised while the
ignition switch is in position II and for 40 seconds after the ignition is turned off.

When an up or down selection is made on one of the side door window switches, the switch simultaneously connects
a power supply and an earth to the related door window motor to drive the window in the required direction. When the
opposite selection is made, the switch changes the polarity of the connections to drive the window in the opposite
direction. The window stops moving immediately the switch is released, except when a momentary down selection is
made on the driver's door switch.

The driver's door window switch is connected to the window motor via the window lift ECU. When the window lift ECU
senses a momentary (0.2 second or less) down selection on the driver's door switch, it connects the driver's door
window motor to a power supply direct from the window lift relay and to an ECU earth. The window lift ECU maintains
these connections until the door window motor stalls, after driving the window fully down, or an up selection is made
on the window switch.

On 5 door models, each rear window switch on the centre console is connected to the window motor via the related
rear door mounted window switch. When the isolator switch is pressed, the earth path for the two rear door mounted
window switches is disconnected. With the isolator switch pressed, only the rear window switches in the centre
console will operate the rear door window motors.

Out of interest are the multi plugs for the switches the same? If so can you not temporarily connect the nearside multi plug to the offside switch and vice versa. Then hopefully the n/s switch will operate the o/s window. Not ideal but at least you won't have to look like an extra out of The Matrix when accessing your work car park.
 
when I bought a few years ago the window switches in the door card and console cubby box was buggered. Some work down or others up. Eventually finding a good one and trying on all the doors was a joy to be hold. Talking six of the blighters to find one.:mad:
 
Fritz said:
So if I've understood you correctly you have a circuit (at least from switch to motor) but no power?

As you know the motor and regulator work the problem is going to be in one of the components or the wiring (stating the obvious I know!) so you need to work back from the motor checking you have power at each step.
Click to expand...

That's what I was dreading, having to travel through every connection in the system! Yeah if unplug the switch in the door card and connect 12v to the red and blue the window operates.


Fritz said:
Out of interest are the multi plugs for the switches the same? If so can you not temporarily connect the nearside multi plug to the offside switch and vice versa. Then hopefully the n/s switch will operate the o/s window. Not ideal but at least you won't have to look like an extra out of The Matrix when accessing your work car park.
Click to expand...

I hoped this might work too, but because the driver's switch panel can operate all windows, it's a different plug..

Hmmm, sounds like the switch is also a possibility too then..
 
The relay control on the facelift is in the door switch for the windows - when you operate the switch with the meter on the connections does the state change?
 
Yes it does. I can't remember which pins.. I remember black, red, blue and orange with a grey stripe were involved..
 
Can anyone pont me to where the CCU for the windows is? Just need to try and find a pin out so I can check what's going on and coming out!
 
If you have power going to the switch and everything works if you apply power directly to the motor then it's pretty certain its the switch.

You can pick up the entire arm rest cluster used for £ 27.95 here ( http://landroverusedspares.co.uk/Freelander-1-Facelift-Driver-Window-Switches-YUD500320PUY ) but check you have power going to the switch first.

If you've no power gong to the switch then something else is wrong.

These people are also breaking an 04 HSE which seems to have the cluster.

https://www.scbvehicledismantlers.c...er-Freelander-1-2004-To-2006-5-Door-4x4/2969/
 
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Front RH window switch is the only unavailable part! Doh! Haha

Yeah I need to check for power to the switch first, need to work out which pins are the power supply.


Looks like a black and red input and a blue and red output.. don't remember seeing two red?

Also missing from that drawing, and what also doesn't seem to work, it's the window deactivate switch.. (unless it only deactivates the rears?)
 

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I'm no expert but looking at the wiring diagram you put up it looks like there is a main power feed to the cluster so if other windows work then the cluster has power going to it just not out to the drivers window.

Seems to point to either the cluster being faulty or the wiring from switch to motor to me.

Fritz
 
Good point well made Fritz!... And I know the wiring from the switch to the motor is fine..

Could do with borrowing a control panel to troubleshoot!
 
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