I have a faulty door light switch. The interior light and door open indicator comes on intermittently whilst driving. I've taken the fuse out to the interior light, but the alarm keeps going off.

Any ideas how I get to the switch, what switch it is or how I can disable the alarm without having to leave the car unlocked?

Hi, Don't disable the alarms or your insurers will call a foul.
Had a look in Rave and the door switches all feed into the ECU behind the fuse panel to make the interior lights work. There's some clever alarming sequences controlled by the states of the door switches.
Can't find any diagrams as to where the actual switches are but I suspect that they are all part of the door locking mechanisms?
Perhaps Darmain can help - he is quite involved in locking problems at the moment.
Are the door switches mounted on the locking mechanisms D?

You have got yourself a copy of Rave ?

There was a thread about the door light switches on here a few months back. I believe the switch is part of the door lock mech., not a seperate switch like in the good old days.

You called?

I regret to say that the door lock switch is an integral part of the lock assembly. Hang on a jiff, as I have just bought a new lock for the drivers door, I'll go and get it out of the box. Bear in mind this is for a 2000 series 1 Freelander. I believe that this is also used on the Series 2 (up to 2003) but not on the face lift onwards.

Right, back again with the lock. As I suspected, the switch is quite visible but is very much integrated into the lock. To get to it, so to service it, would require total disassembly of the lock. Given this thing is capable of locking your door shut forever then care is definately called for.

Rich, how old is your Freelander? For a guide, my locking system is basically worn out after 10 years. The clue is in the remote lock / unlock action. On a good lock the little widget on the top of the door trim should shoot up like a scalded cat. If your locks (like mine) are slow and cluncky then I really recommend that you replace the lock mechanism entirely.

I back this up by stating that the Freelander locking system encorporates an electrically operated but mechanical maintained deadlock, which render mechanical unlocking impossible. The release of the deadlock is the operation of the unlock solenoid. My solenoid linkage snapped on three doors within about 2 months, rendering unlock impossible by remote control. Fortunately I have disabled the deadlock from within the CCU (A happy accident as a result of a repair to the primary lock / unlock circuits). If I still had deadlock functions then my three doors would be impossible to open. I have read on here where an owner had to drill out the lock to the get the door open. Not a pleasent thought.

For cost guidance, I have just paid £70 not including VAT for the Drivers door lock. This is a genuine and new Land Rover replacement. Don't be tempted by uses locks unless you are really sure they are not worn out.

Good luck,

Dave

Had the same thing happening on mine a few months back, it is a real pain isn't it. It turned out the rear door striker needed adjusting, slackened off the 2 torx screws moved the striker in a few mm so the door closed a little tighter & haven't had the problem since

I don't understand how moving the striker in, can affect the way the door operates the microswitch, if the microswitch is built into the lock mechanism. The relationship between the lock and the striker bar is surely unaltered?
I have this problem, which fortunately was only in the "intermittent" stage for one night, and now the car thinks the door is permanently open, so the alarm doesn't go off any more, but the interior light stays on for 10 minutes every time I set off, which makes visibility poor in the dark.
I guess I have to buy a new lock.