pete980

Member

• Jul 20, 2012

• #1

Hi Guy,s
New to the fourm ( stating the obvious lol )

Right just bought a K series Freelander 1.8 its done 60k i no they have engine issues but with this in mind it has had a complete overhaul & £1500 spent on the motor 6 mnths ago

however it does have some other issues knocking frm the rear when changing gear ( now no that the rear diff bushes need replacing ) and needs a new passenger side door,i have already sourced a replacement door & was wondering how difficult it is to fit & replace all the bits & pieces as i will have have transplant them over frm the door that's in place now,

now i dont mind a bit of diy & fairly competent with a spanner just wondered if anybody has done it before

Thanks in advance for any help

 

storm99

Spreading Joy & Harmony

• Jul 20, 2012

• #2

Be patient...the door will fall off at some point soon saving you the trouble of doing it yourself.

 

pete980

Member

• Jul 20, 2012

• #3

storm99 said:

Be patient...the door will fall off at some point soon saving you the trouble of doing it yourself.

Click to expand...

Thanks but the big dent in it is an eye sore lol

 

teddywood1

Well-Known Member

• Jul 21, 2012

• #4

just take your time do not force things and it should not be a problem

 

W

webley2000

Active Member

• Jul 21, 2012

• #5

I had to replace front passenger door.
I even bought a new pack of clips to replace the ones I broke.
I must say it was a doddle,the door just lifts on and off like a gate.
A few points.

1. It is heavy.I used a trolley jack to support the door.
2. You will probably need a new weather shield thingy.
3.Watch out you don`t lose the small C clips which hold the hinges.
2. Take some photos as you dismantle to make sure the wiring is located
properly.
5.Full pot of coffee and allow half a day.It takes about 2 hours in reality,but if you don`t rush you won`t break any clips and you might even enjoy it.

 

pete980

Member

• Jul 21, 2012

• #6

Thanks for the advice going to attempt it on Monday when im off,

Just another quick Q is there a multi plug to connect all the wires ive just noticed that all the wires have been cut were it goes thru the body or is it just as easy to cut them and re solder them together once the replacement door is in place
Thanks

 

W

webley2000

Active Member

• Jul 21, 2012

• #7

Don`t cut the wires.
The multiplug is behind the trim in the passenger footwell.
Quite easy to get at.

 

pete980

Member

• Aug 2, 2012

• #8

This is me so far

new Diff Bushes Done

Replacement Anti roll bar link,s Done

Handbrake Mechanism Freed off & greased no more binding Handbrake

Now if the Weather hold,s off for tomorrow im Going to attempt this Door replacement & Transfer all The guts over to the new Door

Its Been a while since i had this much grease under the finger nails its been Emotional But Great Fun
Cant wait for tomorrow

 

freebiker

Well-Known Member

• Aug 5, 2012

• #9

The bumping from the back when changing gear will be one of two things. Either the bushes holding the rear diff have gone... or the bolt holding the subframe to the body has pulled through its square tubing.

If you get on your knees at the back of your freeby with a cro-bar, and poke it inbetween the subframe (very rear right attachment near the bolt) and the chassis, you'll see movement if it's pulled through.

My fix was to cut a small hole through the floor (enlarging the current inspection hole) and fit a strong plate in between thee chassis and nut, to stop it pulling through. Worked a treat and no welding was needed.

 

pete980

Member

• Aug 7, 2012

• #10

freebiker said:

The bumping from the back when changing gear will be one of two things. Either the bushes holding the rear diff have gone... or the bolt holding the subframe to the body has pulled through its square tubing.

If you get on your knees at the back of your freeby with a cro-bar, and poke it inbetween the subframe (very rear right attachment near the bolt) and the chassis, you'll see movement if it's pulled through.

My fix was to cut a small hole through the floor (enlarging the current inspection hole) and fit a strong plate in between thee chassis and nut, to stop it pulling through. Worked a treat and no welding was needed.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info
i will have a look at that aswell but changing the diff bushes seems to have cured it