DanBerry
New Member
Hi Folks,
Yesterday I decided that it was time that I repaired my door bottoms. As it turned out I managed the nearside just before it started to rain, so I guess you're just going to have to use your imagination for the offside...
Picture #1,
After removing the door, and before you start cutting, make sure that you have CAREFULLY un-peeled the ally skin from the frame, so that it doesn't get damaged.
![doorbottom#1.jpg doorbottom#1.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17693-c8c505518961af0bcaefc0ae9d5899d2.jpg)
Picture #2
My corner at the post end was badly corroded, so that would need to be replaced as well.
![Doorbottom#2.jpg Doorbottom#2.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17694-cb436378b6b6528b7b411939c0483842.jpg)
Picture #3
Having cut out the bottom rail, I needed to remove the damaged corner back to a good thickness of metal to weld to. I kept the peices that were removed to use them as a rough template to cut the new pieces.
![doorbottom#3.jpg doorbottom#3.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17695-d7471fcc420eae10914c28143a21b37b.jpg)
Picture #4
Remember guys, 'Check your corners' !!
![doorbottom#4.jpg doorbottom#4.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17696-f7380b273964a8380d463b25239ec37f.jpg)
Picture #5
After much cutting and welding, this was the end result. Needless to say that having cut the original pieces out, it takes a bit of tacking and hammering to get them so the they are straight. Once your happy with the fit, its just a case of welding it up, then grinding down the excess.
Remember that if you have butt welded your edges, and haven't left enough of a gap, when your grind your welds down you are cutting down on the thickness, and strength of your weld. You should always leave a small gap to ensure good penetration.
![doorbottom#5.jpg doorbottom#5.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17697-e3486d467f3be8eede672378fb7252e4.jpg)
Picture #6
Once you've ground your welds down to a nice finish, its time to give your work some protection. ( For you eagle eyes out there, its dark green Hammerite, and not the proper colour. As its going to be on the inside I didn't think it mattered if it was colour coded or not! )
![doorbottom#6.jpg doorbottom#6.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17698-74942a9df4f39ab119bb501075b79812.jpg)
Picture #7
The corner that wasn't, now is!!
![doorbottom#9.jpg doorbottom#9.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17699-fea4d4c7140940340bef0901cbe3807d.jpg)
If you don't try, you never know what you are capable of, and bearing in mind that to replace door bottoms on a Defender will cost around £100-ish its well worth having a go. If you aren't sure about using a welder a couple of days tuition doesn't cost too much, and we all know that it will pay dividends in the long run.
Yesterday I decided that it was time that I repaired my door bottoms. As it turned out I managed the nearside just before it started to rain, so I guess you're just going to have to use your imagination for the offside...
Picture #1,
After removing the door, and before you start cutting, make sure that you have CAREFULLY un-peeled the ally skin from the frame, so that it doesn't get damaged.
![doorbottom#1.jpg doorbottom#1.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17693-c8c505518961af0bcaefc0ae9d5899d2.jpg)
Picture #2
My corner at the post end was badly corroded, so that would need to be replaced as well.
![Doorbottom#2.jpg Doorbottom#2.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17694-cb436378b6b6528b7b411939c0483842.jpg)
Picture #3
Having cut out the bottom rail, I needed to remove the damaged corner back to a good thickness of metal to weld to. I kept the peices that were removed to use them as a rough template to cut the new pieces.
![doorbottom#3.jpg doorbottom#3.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17695-d7471fcc420eae10914c28143a21b37b.jpg)
Picture #4
Remember guys, 'Check your corners' !!
![doorbottom#4.jpg doorbottom#4.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17696-f7380b273964a8380d463b25239ec37f.jpg)
Picture #5
After much cutting and welding, this was the end result. Needless to say that having cut the original pieces out, it takes a bit of tacking and hammering to get them so the they are straight. Once your happy with the fit, its just a case of welding it up, then grinding down the excess.
Remember that if you have butt welded your edges, and haven't left enough of a gap, when your grind your welds down you are cutting down on the thickness, and strength of your weld. You should always leave a small gap to ensure good penetration.
![doorbottom#5.jpg doorbottom#5.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17697-e3486d467f3be8eede672378fb7252e4.jpg)
Picture #6
Once you've ground your welds down to a nice finish, its time to give your work some protection. ( For you eagle eyes out there, its dark green Hammerite, and not the proper colour. As its going to be on the inside I didn't think it mattered if it was colour coded or not! )
![doorbottom#6.jpg doorbottom#6.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17698-74942a9df4f39ab119bb501075b79812.jpg)
Picture #7
The corner that wasn't, now is!!
![doorbottom#9.jpg doorbottom#9.jpg](https://www.landyzone.co.uk/data/attachments/17/17699-fea4d4c7140940340bef0901cbe3807d.jpg)
If you don't try, you never know what you are capable of, and bearing in mind that to replace door bottoms on a Defender will cost around £100-ish its well worth having a go. If you aren't sure about using a welder a couple of days tuition doesn't cost too much, and we all know that it will pay dividends in the long run.