Hi all
After getting rid of my p38s i decided to go back to a disco. I've had a couple of 300s so i decided to get a td5 was told by my mechanic what to check for and all was good until the central locking stopped working recently on drivers door i forgot to make sure the key worked in the lock. Ive seen in some posts on here to make sure key works in door any ideas why i cant turn the key
 
Does it not turn at all?

If not then try a penetrating spray, they do seize up with lack of use.

Cheers
 
You can try WD40, I take it that is what you mean.
but a good penetrating spray like plus gas may serve you better.

Oh, and be gentle with it.

Cheers
 
You say the central locking stopped working recently.

Do you mean the fob stopped working?

Cheers
 
No fob works fine if i double press rest of car opens fine drivers door latch won't lift on single press so i have to go through passenger's door and pull lever on drivers door lot of hassle to get in car till pay day. Tried wd in lock no joy
Cheers
 
OK, so a bit more relevant info...LOL
So I am taking it: it did work on the fob , it has now stopped working on the fob, but all the others work correctly.
Well it sounds like your door actuator is fubarred ,I did think that even if the actuator stopped working electrically then mechanically it would still work. Maybe you are looking at two fails , the door barrel and the door actuator. Both are easy fixes.

I would pull it apart and check to see if the barrel works first. Check the wiring for damage where possible. iirc you can plug another door actuator into any of the other door multiplug connections and they will confirm if the wiring is OK. ( But they are not exchangeable).


Cheers
 
Sadly the door latch mechanism on the drivers door sound like it's no longer working. Replacement is probably the only way to go. They're almost impossible to get into to try to repair.
The failure of the key to turn in the lock could be due to a previous owner having replaced the ignition barrel, it's known to go faulty, and didn't replace the driver's door lock at the same time, but now you only have the ignition key, the old driver's door key has gone walkies.
This could lead to problems in future if the EKA is ever needed.
 
It did work on fob it packed up yesterday and after some searching on here i figured likely culprit was the actuator just couldn't figure out why key wouldn't turn in the lock barrel. Looking at the key it looks worn so not sure if that's the reason. I put second key in such a safe place can't find it don't i feel like an idiot lol

Cheers
 
Good news is that you can still get it unlocked to disassemble it.

Door barrel locks are cheap, if you get onto a breaker you may get an actuator and lock set cheapish.
Once you have got them fitted, make sure you have the EKA code .

Cheers
 
Will get actuator sorted so i can open with fob it's only got to last till next year so i can upgrade to a newer model for the price i wasn't expecting miracles. Many thanks for your replys

Cheers
 
I just paid £20 shipped for a used door actuator - looks like an hour or so work to fix so as soon as we get a sunny day .......
 
Regarding the door locks, be aware that they are individual to each door. Replacement will take about an hour if you're familiar with the job, but it could take two hours or more if it's your first time. The door has to be virtually dismantled completely to change it, there are very few shortcuts.
You'll find a very good write-up on what needs to be done at:-

http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Reardoor_lock.html

Take care with the little bent metal linkage between the outer door handle and the lock actuator, remove it completely and keep it safe. If you should drop it in the door, take it from one who knows you'll probably never see it again.
With the driver's door, be careful not to damage the actuating spigot thing which connects the barrel lock to the latch mechanism it's made of a particularly fragile sh*tite material, as @neilly will attest.
Other than that, the job of changing the lock actuators is pretty straightforward, just a bit fiddly.
 
Take care with the little bent metal linkage between the outer door handle and the lock actuator, remove it completely and keep it safe. If you should drop it in the door, take it from one who knows you'll probably never see it again.
With the driver's door, be careful not to damage the actuating spigot thing which connects the barrel lock to the latch mechanism it's made of a particularly fragile sh*tite material, as @neilly will attest.

Yes , there is a room in Hell, it contains 3 things, odd socks, biro's and that little wiggly wire . I still have not found mine.

The monkey metal bar, it is an easy job to make a new one from a 6 inch nail.

Cheers
 

Similar threads