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boydy38

Member
Hi all got a bit of a problem , rangey was laid up for a while , yes thats right battery flat have to enter 4 x lock plus eka code so i know the drill . problem this time passenger door lock is jammed shut cant open door to dismantle nothing . i know from this point i cannot reprog key to car .have managed to prise door internal cover open and with alittle mirror can see doorlockkage is in open position can anbody help am thinkin next step is crowbar !!!!!:confused::confused:
 
I had a passenger door superlock and would not open. I could not smash the lock with a long screwdriver as it was going back for an exchange so I had to :- Remove N/S rear door, mask off the paint work in the striker area(I used lots of duct tape), cut through the outer part of the striker with an angle grinder then cut through the inner with a new hacksaw blade. It really did not take long, best of luck:) ps. a new striker was about £15.
 
boydy38 said:
Hi all got a bit of a problem , rangey was laid up for a while , yes thats right battery flat have to enter 4 x lock plus eka code so i know the drill . problem this time passenger door lock is jammed shut cant open door to dismantle nothing . i know from this point i cannot reprog key to car .have managed to prise door internal cover open and with alittle mirror can see doorlockkage is in open position can anbody help am thinkin next step is crowbar !!!!!:confused::confused:
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Why?
 
duuuhhh sorry slight problem with me nuerones!! ...OK correct me if i am wrong (which is often ) but is it not the case when going thro the keycoding process the doorlocks have to qpen/ close in the desired sequence to re start the motor........... (his confidence draining ) ...
 
boydy38 said:
duuuhhh sorry slight problem with me nuerones!! ...OK correct me if i am wrong (which is often ) but is it not the case when going thro the keycoding process the doorlocks have to qpen/ close in the desired sequence to re start the motor........... (his confidence draining ) ...
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Look in your owners manual for the correct FOB sync proceedure for your year of car. If you don't have the manual look in the "How To" section for a link to download RAVE which has the owners manual in it.
 
I had this happen to me some years ago, soon after I bought the p38. It was fitted with a ****e Halfrauds battery. The car was sat for 3 days which of course finished off the old battery. EKA to get in the car but the front passenger door had superlocked itself which sounds as though this has happened to yours. Check out rangerovers.net for the solution. Getting the door card off is the hardest thing (I managed to break mine). Then you need to get the window down and remove the weather seals. With a long (very long) flat screw driver and a hammer, you need to smash the top of the lock to get to the bit to release the superlock. I'd bought a replacement lock to refit, but was lucky in as much as after a couple of smart bows to the top of the lock it actually released the superlock mechanism before I smashed thru the top casing.
There are other methods which involve drilling through the door post from the back, but I didn't fancy the idea of that.
As i say, worth checking rangerovers.net, wealth of great information there.
Good luck.
 
boydy38 said:
ok will do a bit of surfin on those sites thanks for the feedback will let you know the result!!!!!
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No drilling required with my method, just a new striker. If the lock has stuck in super lock then at least you can remove the lock, release the old striker and disable the super lock facility. Trust me , I've got the tee shirt :)
 
tomcat59alan said:
No drilling required with my method, just a new striker. If the lock has stuck in super lock then at least you can remove the lock, release the old striker and disable the super lock facility. Trust me , I've got the tee shirt :)
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Have done it on an L322 but not on a P38 pretty straight forward task. Bit of a fiddle but reasonably easy. ;):)
 
tomcat59alan said:
No drilling required with my method, just a new striker. If the lock has stuck in super lock then at least you can remove the lock, release the old striker and disable the super lock facility. Trust me , I've got the tee shirt :)
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Hi All just to give u Update ,,,,, took out rear door and cut off the striker , dismantled lock but dont know how to disable superlockin facility ? is it possible also the motor could be burnt out ????
 
boydy38 said:
Hi All just to give u Update ,,,,, took out rear door and cut off the striker , dismantled lock but dont know how to disable superlockin facility ? is it possible also the motor could be burnt out ????
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You can remove the smaller of the two motors or check on Rave wiring diagrams and cut the appropriate wire. Sure someone will tell you which. Yes it is possible the lock motor is burnt out, usually an R/F fault, refit and try. Best of luck:)
 
tomcat59alan said:
You can remove the smaller of the two motors or check on Rave wiring diagrams and cut the appropriate wire. Sure someone will tell you which. Yes it is possible the lock motor is burnt out, usually an R/F fault, refit and try. Best of luck:)
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thanks for the feedback, but to be honest i am none the wiser:scratching_chin: i am a little bit on the fikkkk side and need a bit of guidance ( cos i was born in the one-eyed city!! ) cheers:)
 
boydy38 said:
thanks for the feedback, but to be honest i am none the wiser:scratching_chin: i am a little bit on the fikkkk side and need a bit of guidance ( cos i was born in the one-eyed city!! ) cheers:)
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OK, if you open up the lock you will find two motors inside. The smaller one operates the superlock so take it out or look on Rave to find the colour of the wire to cut it isolate the superlock motor. If you don't have Rave go to the "how to" section on the top of the home page and go to wammers guide on EAS overhaul. In this section you will find a link to download Rave.:)
 
boydy38 said:
thanks for the feedback, but to be honest i am none the wiser:scratching_chin: i am a little bit on the fikkkk side and need a bit of guidance ( cos i was born in the one-eyed city!! ) cheers:)
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Don't know what year your motor but Rave is showing 1997 on the superlock wire is orange/pink. Anyone confirm?:)
 
Grrrrrr said:
Not after this much beer but I'd take the motor out. You can always put i back in when you sell it for the next sucker. :)

The motor isn't soldered. Just clips in and out. Some pictures of the actuator at the bottom of this page: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/central-locking-mystery-197167.html
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ok cheers u 2 good feedback :) ordered striker and latch to be sure i have all i need i whilst i wait 4 the parts (maybe tuesday ) LA POSTE in France is not very rapid i will let u know, once again Thanks ....


forgot to mention its A 96 2.5dt
 
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boydy38 said:
ok cheers u 2 good feedback :) ordered striker and latch to be sure i have all i need i whilst i wait 4 the parts (maybe tuesday ) LA POSTE in France is not very rapid i will let u know, once again Thanks ....


forgot to mention its A 96 2.5dt
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Maybe that's because you live up an Alp:rolleyes: La Poste is very fast here unless the stuff is coming from the UK where it seems reluctant to cross the channel:)
 
Datatek said:
Maybe that's because you live up an Alp:rolleyes: La Poste is very fast here unless the stuff is coming from the UK where it seems reluctant to cross the channel:)
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Couriers are slow as I found out when my clutch pressure plate went when I was in France. Stuck without transport in a little village (La Chapelle Taillefert). Seven days later it turned up, bit of a job on a Classic, on your own and only the car jack to help. When I got it fixed I drove to the nearest town (Guiret) and on the first traffic island there was, you guessed it, European Car parts motor factor, Bugger. :)
 
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