W

Willos

Active Member
I shall just list the facts as its now getting to the point were I may break the car to rcovery as much money as possible.
New on 4.0 thor engine
Head gaskets
valley gasket
Exhaust gaskets
Water pump
Belt
All hoses
rad
thermostat
New cap

syptoms:
Warms up fine on drive. Cap off ex tank and bleed all air out. Cap on no problem on drive. car heater on full whilst bleeding. All pipes hot before putting cap on ex cap.
Trip out needle in middle. Great I think then all of a sudden needle whips into red. My rads luke warm at botom and toasting at top.
I've changed the thermostat again so its not that. The car has been pinking a lot so I've ran it on petrol to isolate the lgp question.
Still pinks a little. Tickover has been a little high at 1000 , but this evening when I warmed her up on the drive it was at 850 rpm.
I dont trust it now. I've had to fit a tow bar on my v70 tomorrow to go camping this weekend .
 
blocked return hoses on radiator(small ones)
it may have leaky block but a sniff test over header tank with cap off would show this by a jump in hydrocarbons on gas analyser

where are you?
 
OI'm in cambridgeshire. New hoses all around. I'm suspicious its a cracked head. No oil in water
 
So you didn't have heads pressure tested when skimmed?
 
i agree blocked hose to header tank(small hose) or blockage in the small entry on header tank itself, can cause massive problems.it needs constant return to the header tank even if it looks not alot it WILL overheat with no return.
 
the skiny plastic hose from the rad the the heasder tank is clear as i've blown down it several times and its hot ,plus seen coolant coming out wqhen top off bleeding the sysytem.
 
Hate to say this but I'd go with the cracked head, as I've been a victim of it myself and it was 1K+ to get it fixed! All because my viscous fan stopped working!
 
I've gone to the car this morning and there is a slight vacuum in the water system. Top pipe slightly squashed
Say its a cracked head. On the drivers bank before I irontited it cylinders 4& 6 spark plugs were pinkish so water getting into these. The reason why I did the cyinder head gaskets was because of a leak in 4 out the side, so do you think its this head ?
 
did you use new head bolts? have you put irontite in yet?. it is starting to sound like you may have a head problem, if the heads come back ok, you going to need a new block..
 
I don't purport to be an expert on these things, there are wiser men on here than me.

But if you have a vacuum in your water system this tells me that there is no air getting, which is of course good. However, in order for the vacuum to be there in the first place it implies that water has been escaping. So simple logic tells me that this water has escaped while the engine was hot. Now that the engine has cooled the leak has 'sealed' which implies some from of thermal crack. i.e. A head or block.

Before your do anything take the suspect head off and get it pressure tested. If it passes then test the other bank. If that passes then ....
 
Take off the water pump and check it before you remove any of the heads. If you do a head job on any vehicle you should always physically inspect the water pump and have the radiator flow tested, just for peace of mind.
 
Its a new rad and water pump. I've purchased a sniffer off fleebay which turns colour if any hydrcarbons are in the coolant. Its £32 but can save me a lot of effort if its not gas.
How come I have pinking and the idle rises to 1000 rpm , it must have something to do with it
 
Willos said:
Its a new rad and water pump. I've purchased a sniffer off fleebay which turns colour if any hydrcarbons are in the coolant. Its £32 but can save me a lot of effort if its not gas.
How come I have pinking and the idle rises to 1000 rpm , it must have something to do with it
Click to expand...


Groan I explained a far more accurate way to spot early hgf :croc:

See if any plugs are rusty also
 
my dad had these symptoms on his 4.6 he spoke to mcdonalds of oswestry (landy place) they dignosed pourous liners... so could be that or slipped liner etc
 
Phil_b said:
my dad had these symptoms on his 4.6 he spoke to mcdonalds of oswestry (landy place) they dignosed pourous liners... so could be that or slipped liner etc
Click to expand...

that's why I recommended gas analyser sniff test
 
AS i'ver had the heads off I didnt see any signs of slipped liners. I got a mixed bag of spark plug conditions but non rusty. I did get a couple of pink ones which told me coolant ingress. Had it gas tested afdter I replaced thew heads and it was positive. Full comprerssion on all cylinders so we can rule out head gaskets.
It maybe because the warm weather has tipped it ovewr the edge.
 
yah that's what made me mention my dads prob fanatic
Warm weather shouldn't send it over like that.... It may be down to pourosity little less likely on a 4.0 than a 4.6 cos they have higher tolerences in the bores with it been the same v8 block they were using 40yrs ago but bigger cc it's a weakpoint.....and still a more common fault than you think according to the main guy over there due to LR pushing the limits on the engine

I remember the ford 10 series tractors engne blocks went pourous due to wrong engine oil and the john Deere engines go pourous if non genuine anti freeze is used, it's a matter of not scrimping on bits and bobs, it may happen anyway but it can be prolonged
 
Phil_b said:
yah that's what made me mention my dads prob fanatic
Warm weather shouldn't send it over like that.... It may be down to pourosity little less likely on a 4.0 than a 4.6 cos they have higher tolerences in the bores with it been the same v8 block they were using 40yrs ago but bigger cc it's a weakpoint.....and still a more common fault than you think according to the main guy over there due to LR pushing the limits on the engine
Really that's why they are both 94mm and the 4.6 has a longer stroke and known ecu map issue
I remember the ford 10 series tractors engne blocks went pourous due to wrong engine oil and the john Deere engines go pourous if non genuine anti freeze is used, it's a matter of not scrimping on bits and bobs, it may happen anyway but it can be prolonged
Click to expand...

Really
 
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