3, all work, tax/motd etc

D3 everything works, and it has pretty much every extra.
90 all except the heated rear window as element dud, so I use the supply for a worklight.
S2 all works, currently with a ton of ballast in the boot.

It is all down to maintenance, which quite frankly compared to modern normal cars is way to often.
 
feyniriel said:
Meaning there are no mechanical faults, no leaks, no electrical problems, all buttons, gears, lights, clocks work, etc... Is it possible to have that as a Land Rover owner? And if you do, for how long are you able to maintain it at a time before something breaks? Hearing everybody say Rovers are a hobby not a car, have I signed myself up for eternally working on my car by getting my first P38...
Click to expand...
As far as I know, the only thing not working on my wife's Series is the high beam warning light. It may come back of it's own accord, or maybe the bulb has blown.
That isn't to say that will be the same next week.

Reading in the Range Rover section, most of those seem to have several faults most of the time.
Probably because they are very much more complicated than Series.
 
Turboman said:
As far as I know, the only thing not working on my wife's Series is the high beam warning light. It may come back of it's own accord, or maybe the bulb has blown.
That isn't to say that will be the same next week.

Reading in the Range Rover section, most of those seem to have several faults most of the time.
Probably because they are very much more complicated than Series.
Click to expand...
More complicated by an order of magnitude.
But just maybe not so prone to rusting out as a Series. ;)
 
Unfortunately my disco has to be placed on the list… being unable to select diff-lock, the first and last time it was engage/disengaged was to days of snow back in 2011-12, I wont use it again anyway, never used it with my RR.
Of course the rest of the disco kit functions 100% no reason for it not to be.:)
 
feyniriel said:
Meaning there are no mechanical faults, no leaks, no electrical problems, all buttons, gears, lights, clocks work, etc... Is it possible to have that as a Land Rover owner? And if you do, for how long are you able to maintain it at a time before something breaks? Hearing everybody say Rovers are a hobby not a car, have I signed myself up for eternally working on my car by getting my first P38...
Click to expand...
Yes. My FL2 is reliable. His turbo actuator failed earlier this year. I took it oft and sent it for repair, then put it back. Other than that he's been good for 7.5 years. Service and repair meself. Freelandering is the way forward.
 
🤣 I knew the Landy Godz would frown upon my presumption and boasting about my 100% working Landy! Mea culpa, mea maxima culpa!

Drove to town, aok, tootling around and suddenly engine dies. Come to a safe stop and she restarts straight away. A little later on turned a corner and cuts out again so pull over.
No sound from the fuel pump - oh dear, had problems in the past with a dodgy connection to the pump - so off with the seat etc. 12v bulb probe shows power to fuse (which is in a weather proof holder above the tank) but not out. With ignition on, fiddling with the fuse holder made the pump work so I thought poor connection with the fuse, and on opening it up the blade holder and fuse fell to bits, all corroded and melted inside. So much for waterproof holder!
IMG_2608.JPG

I didn't have a spare holder on me so just crimped the wires together in a butt and all running again. A replacement holder should arrive tomorrow.

Quick question....normally the temp gauge sits at 83 but today before the breakdown it was more like 85-90; after the repair on the way home it read 83 again. If the fuel pump was not getting full power through the dodgy holder would that make it run a bit lean hence warmer? It also felt more positive on the drive home, on the way in it seemed a tiny bit hesitant.
 
feyniriel said:
Meaning there are no mechanical faults, no leaks, no electrical problems, all buttons, gears, lights, clocks work, etc... Is it possible to have that as a Land Rover owner? And if you do, for how long are you able to maintain it at a time before something breaks? Hearing everybody say Rovers are a hobby not a car, have I signed myself up for eternally working on my car by getting my first P38...
Click to expand...

They all work 100%, just not 100% of the time ...
 
cappers said:
🤣 I knew the Landy Godz would frown upon my presumption and boasting about my 100% working Landy! Mea culpa, mea maxima culpa!

Drove to town, aok, tootling around and suddenly engine dies. Come to a safe stop and she restarts straight away. A little later on turned a corner and cuts out again so pull over.
No sound from the fuel pump - oh dear, had problems in the past with a dodgy connection to the pump - so off with the seat etc. 12v bulb probe shows power to fuse (which is in a weather proof holder above the tank) but not out. With ignition on, fiddling with the fuse holder made the pump work so I thought poor connection with the fuse, and on opening it up the blade holder and fuse fell to bits, all corroded and melted inside. So much for waterproof holder!
View attachment 290286
I didn't have a spare holder on me so just crimped the wires together in a butt and all running again. A replacement holder should arrive tomorrow.

Quick question....normally the temp gauge sits at 83 but today before the breakdown it was more like 85-90; after the repair on the way home it read 83 again. If the fuel pump was not getting full power through the dodgy holder would that make it run a bit lean hence warmer? It also felt more positive on the drive home, on the way in it seemed a tiny bit hesitant.
Click to expand...

Weather ?

Not going so quickly, so less airflow ?
 
cappers said:
🤣 I knew the Landy Godz would frown upon my presumption and boasting about my 100% working Landy! Mea culpa, mea maxima culpa!

Drove to town, aok, tootling around and suddenly engine dies. Come to a safe stop and she restarts straight away. A little later on turned a corner and cuts out again so pull over.
No sound from the fuel pump - oh dear, had problems in the past with a dodgy connection to the pump - so off with the seat etc. 12v bulb probe shows power to fuse (which is in a weather proof holder above the tank) but not out. With ignition on, fiddling with the fuse holder made the pump work so I thought poor connection with the fuse, and on opening it up the blade holder and fuse fell to bits, all corroded and melted inside. So much for waterproof holder!
View attachment 290286
I didn't have a spare holder on me so just crimped the wires together in a butt and all running again. A replacement holder should arrive tomorrow.

Quick question....normally the temp gauge sits at 83 but today before the breakdown it was more like 85-90; after the repair on the way home it read 83 again. If the fuel pump was not getting full power through the dodgy holder would that make it run a bit lean hence warmer? It also felt more positive on the drive home, on the way in it seemed a tiny bit hesitant.
Click to expand...
Yeah would run hotter if mixture was lean (seen holes in pistons from lean mixture) which could account for your before & after temp. readings.
 
Don't have a clock so it's easy, she a 110 van, was 100% for several years, until the wipers broke over the winter, now fixed, and now where the windscreen rubber meets having gone round the screen, there is now a 1/4 inch gap I haven't got round to filling. Might do that tomorrow.
 
Dippypud said:
Weather ?

Not going so quickly, so less airflow ?
Click to expand...
Thought of that but a third of the drive was at 40-50 and the air temp was hotter coming home than when going out before the fuel pump issue. It was registering cooler i.e. normal 83, coming back.
 
Mine is absolutely perfect and everything is to OE standards, not even an oil leak. However as it is being rebuilt just now I would not bet that once I put oil in it and try and drive it that this 100% will be maintained.
 
All x3 of mine are working D3 v8, RS v8, L322 V8. Can't say anything is wrong with any at the moment yes planned stuff todo but all working fine.
 
norseman said:
Five Series & four RRC's over the the decades.
The only serious problem was a 3.9 RR slipping a liner, apart from that all reliable aside from the occasional battery incident.

But then of course they were all proper LR's, pre-1990 (apart from the 3.9) not today's computers-on-wheels ;)
Click to expand...
My 1961 Series 2 once had a 'battery inciden'. Travelled to see a mate who rebuilds Citroen 2CVs and Dyanes minus everything above the bulkhead vents, including windscreen. (it was that day when the sun came out and didn't rain)
While leaving his garage bumping over the rough ground the engine cut out and smoke started coming from under the binnet. So i leapt out and tried to open it but it stopped. My mate seeing what happened ran over and we both wrenched at it and discovered that the nonnet stay had managed to bounce across onto the positive battery terminal and welded itself in position. I'd been meaning to put a pin into the bottom part where it pivots for some time. We both decided that that time was NOW so we went back into his garage and found a bolt that fitted...
That was a memorable day as after then i always wore a pair of bright red gas welding goggles when the windscreen was off because on the way to the motorway a tractor in the field next to the road who was mowing spat a stone at me that hit me between the bridge of my nose and eyebrow breaking my sunglass lens. I assume it was that. Or a bumble bee with a JATO up it's chuff wearing a crash helmet!
 
"Does anyone actually have a 100% working Landy?"
Yes, I've had two from new, one from new-ish and two in double-digit ages. As mentioned above, maintenance, sometimes predictive maintenance is the key, buying used vehicles, you have to work out why it's being sold - no-one ever sells a used vehicle that doesn't have an issue or two - usually selling because of the issues. Once you have it 'up to a standard', it's quite easy to just enjoy driving it, problems only occur if symptoms have been ignored or 'put on the to-do list'.
I've spent 80-100 hours getting my current vehicle 'up to a standard' much to the chagrin (and cost) to the trader I bought it from, but I know it is now genuinely 100% functional, roadworthy and importantly, safe for me and other road users.
 
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