My TD5 diesel puts out warm air after a mile and hotter air the longer you drive it-the heated seats can be a bit too hot and I turn them off except on really cold mornings.
 
Mine sits halfway when at 62,76,86 all according to nanocom.not a very accurate gauge.

Mine used to be the same, the stat was knackered - replaced with a Genuine one and it's sits around 90C now.

The temp senders tend to age badly too, get a genuine bosch replacement - this actually improves MPG btw if the existing one is duff.
 
Hi all. I replaced the thermostat and the the temperature sensor. I flushed out the system as best as I could (a garage flushed it out last week and I did a flush too). New fluid into the system and still warm air. I have ran the system with the radiator cap off and I can see the water returning to the reservoir in little spurts which leads me to think that there is not a blockage in the system but I am soooo cold! Any thoughts welcome.
 
TBH I think all we would be doing now is suggesting swapping bits out and throwing cash at it, if it was me I'd drain the coolant out and have the entire coolant system out, paying close attention to the rad and water pump. Pain in the arse, but not sure what else to suggest.
 
I am massaging all the pipes which seems to have made a difference a little . I am thinking that there may be air bubbles kicking around somewhere. I have in. My mind that the matrix is the problem and that compressed air I there to blast it clean may be the way forward . Going. To try a little more pipe massage first though. Testd the viscous fan to ensure it was decoupling which it is.
 
So I have now removed the viscous fan in the hope of a warmer car. It certainly heats up faster however I notice now that the heat is best when going uphill as opposed to when the car points nose up. Wondering if this is a sign of an air bubbles?
 
And finally. I got it sorted and the disco is toasty warm. Lots of problems , the final ones being the viscous fan locking on too early and slight air leak. I have shoved in rad weld and much better. I just need to get through the winter period but thank you everyone on here for helping me out.
 
Radweld is ok for a temp repair but in the long run it just gunks everything else up and you end up changing all of it rather than just the part that was faulty in the first place. :)
 
Radweld is ok for a temp repair but in the long run it just gunks everything else up and you end up changing all of it rather than just the part that was faulty in the first place. :)

Yes. It's just a temporary repair and a diagnostic as it points to an air leak somewhere too. I am looking to change the water pump too but spring or summer. Now also, I am learning a lot, what price knowledge?

I think you are correct in that it does gunk up everything though.
 
Mine takes a while to warm up on cold mornings but climate control keeps it toasty at 24c
Just need to sort the drivers heated seat
 

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