I was yakking to my mot tester years ago and I said I might remove the arb. He told me he should fail it if I did.
My anti roll bar was bent and it failed the mot, I replaced it and when I took it for a retest the mot guy said "oh you replaced it, you should have just removed it" if fitted and damaged its a fail but if you dont have one its a pass.
 
My anti roll bar was bent and it failed the mot, I replaced it and when I took it for a retest the mot guy said "oh you replaced it, you should have just removed it" if fitted and damaged its a fail but if you dont have one its a pass.

Welcome to LZ, Scooby! :)
 
Whilst I agree it is a grey area with land rovers, I feel I need to fight the corner of my tester here. AFAIK 110s are fitted with arbs, 90s optional.
The latest revision of the mot testing manual basically states if it was originally fitted, removal is a reason for rejection (failure):

It appears on an mot forum here:

DEFENDER ANTI-ROLL BARS
I was wondering whether you could help with the following, or put me in touch with someone who can give advice? Some Land Rover Defender drivers remove or disconnect their rear anti-roll bars to help improve rear wheel articulation (indeed, a lot of Defenders don't have them fitted). But we've heard from a reader that the MOT rules are due to change and this would result in a failure. Is this correct? John Pearson, Editor-in-Chief, Land Rover Owner International magazine.

Removing an anti-roll bar which was originally fitted to the vehicle is now a reason for rejection (ie a failure) in the MOT (at 19/10/10) – MOTT.

It is in the mot inspection manual January 2017 revision:

Method of Inspection Reason for Rejection

G. Suspension Arms and Linkages, Sub-
Frames, etc
1. Check the following components and any
attachment brackets or linkages, for presence,
cracks, fractures, distortion, corrosion, wear
and insecurity:
a. suspension arms (wishbone etc)
b. trailing arms
c. radius arms
d. tie bars/rods
e. panhard rods
f. torque/reaction arms
g. anti-roll bars
h. MacPherson struts
i. sub-frames.
1. A suspension component or its attachment
bracket or linkage:
• missing where one is fitted as standard
• cracked, fractured or insecure
• weld cracked
• severely distorted
• damaged, corroded or worn to such an
extent that its strength is seriously reduced
• retaining nut, bolt or rivet missing
• which is adjustable and is loose in its
adjustment threads, or its locking device
insecure or missing.
Note: It is not always possible to determine the
presence and effectiveness of certain types of
locking devices e.g. locking fluid or ‘nyloc’ nuts.
 
My 110 has brackets on the rear but not the front.
It handled quite nice without but now ive added a roof rack and lug stuff about, it's deffintly changed the 'nice' handling i had.

Will putting one on the rear without one on the front make things worse or better?
 
Does anyone make a quick release Arb setup like those availible on jeeps?

To answer the question on MOT. An arb is not required.

I owned an old volvo with nackered rear arb bushes. With my permission they removed the Arb and passed its MOT.
 
I've had a CSW 110 in the past with Arb and it handled great. I've now got an old 110 that handled great before I put a heavy solar panel on the top and loaded it with a bed and everything I need for working away from home.

Before kitting out the back [and top] of the 110 it was nice to power into and out of a corner, but now it has a tenancy to 'snap' on hard cornering if I'm not careful with the driving. The solution to this situation is just to drive the vehicle with a bit more attention, ie don't go driving it like a little sports car :)

Having said all that, I do like the suggestions given early on in the thread; look at your springs, shocks and bushes. I think I would rather upgrade this side first before looking at an instant fix of the Arb.

Just my 2cents.
 
Having said all that, I do like the suggestions given early on in the thread; look at your springs, shocks and bushes. I think I would rather upgrade this side first before looking at an instant fix of the Arb.

Curious about your logic : Why??

Replacing bushes,springs & shocks : Parts alone around 1000€k + hours if you do it yourself 10+ hours or do it in shop 800-1000€ more = 2000€ caching.
Used ARB for rear 10€ + replace it yourself 15minutes = 10€.

I do understand if there is need to repace some of the parts that are shot, but...?

What am I missing?
 

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