F

FENTY

New Member
1997 jap import discovery v8
Just cut out whilst running and won't restart.
Engine is turning over and if I put my foot to the floor it starts to catch.
I have replaced
Coil
Dizzy cap
Rotor arm
Leads
Ignition amplifier
I have checked the relays both are clicking
There is a spark from the coil and the leads
I have ran 12v direct to the coil
I have depressed the schrader valve on t he fuel rail and a large spurt of fuel come out as it did when I disconnected the fuel line into the rail and turned ignition on.
The plugs get wet when engine is turned over.
Was thinking of bypassing the spider but can't see that it can be the problem as the 12v direct to the coil should sort out any problem there.
I am also running no cats with a 470 ohm resistor which was done 6 mths ago
Any ideas??????
 
FENTY said:
Engine is turning over and if I put my foot to the floor it starts to catch.

The plugs get wet when engine is turned over.

Any ideas??????
Click to expand...

If it starts to catch with WOT either the engine is just well and truly flooded or possibly there is an inlet air leak somewhere.

If it is flooded, and it's easy to do, pop the plugs out and dry them then remove the main efi relay and crank the engine over to help clear the cylinders. Put the main efi relay back in. Warm the plugs and put them back in and give it a try.

If it doesn't start and the plugs are wet, check again for a good spark. If there is a spark, mark the position of the dizzy then loosen the dizzy clamp and advance the timing. This is best done with an assistant to crank the engine while you advance the dizzy, hopefully it will start, then you can check and set the ignition timing and hopefully all will be well. HTH.
 
Got it.
Faulty MAF.
Which explains why the tick over had been hunting for the last months . I am running a non cat tune resistor so it is fully dependant on the maf for fuel metering
 
FENTY said:
Got it.
Faulty MAF.
Which explains why the tick over had been hunting for the last months . I am running a non cat tune resistor so it is fully dependant on the maf for fuel metering
Click to expand...

That will do it!
ECU will be in limp mode so it will run very rich. When you change the MAF don't forget to set CO trim and also set base idle etc. When you swap the MAF you will need to reset the ECU, do this by either unplugging the ECU and then plug it back in or simply disconnect the battery for a couple of seconds then reconnect.
 
I had the Co trim set to 1.4 on both my disco and comp truck that also runs a 3.9 hotwire. I stole the afm off the racer. I have read about running them at 1.1.
 
Although I have had the cats removed the lamda are still there I have never tried going back to the white resistor to see how it runs with no cats but using the lamdas
 
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