Rear hub seal, big thin O ring.
craigoodwood
Well-Known Member
Or just to add, my silver one was the same so I brought a new hub with the seal on and it turned out to be bearing grease not axles oil and the seal...
In my case I had fitted a new hub some time before and for some reason it started to leak. I changed the hub for another reason, (It was originally a new front hub and I then needed one so I put it on the front and put an old, but OK, hub back on the back.) And tyhen had no leaks on either end. The front one has a seal in the axle so doesn't need the big thin one.
The hubs I have taken off before are very tightly put together and I would not think they would be easy to pack with grease.
If a hub is wearing to the point that grease is needed, it is knackered and you will know this as it will rumble and the three amigos will come on.
I am pretty confident it will just need a new O ring which is cheap and being put back together properly.
We will help if you find hub removal and replacement tricky.
don't forget to order a new hub nut as well as an O ring cos it will need staking.
No harm in putting copper grease on the shaft spline.
Good luck.
So you needed a new hub then anyway. did the three amigos come up too?
Thanks! I just found another thread says loctite 648 should be used on shaft spline, it is bonding other than lubricating. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/discovery-2-2004-td5-landmark-rear-hub-nut-torque.348751/The hubs I have taken off before are very tightly put together and I would not think they would be easy to pack with grease.
If a hub is wearing to the point that grease is needed, it is knackered and you will know this as it will rumble and the three amigos will come on.
I am pretty confident it will just need a new O ring which is cheap and being put back together properly.
We will help if you find hub removal and replacement tricky.
don't forget to order a new hub nut as well as an O ring cos it will need staking.
No harm in putting copper grease on the shaft spline.
Good luck.
Read the thread to the end!!!
You will see both my and James Martin's comments on there! and what JM don't know about LRs ain't worth knowing.
And no you don't really need locktite but you DO really need to stake the nut properly.
This gives you full info on how to do it up without a hugely expensive torque wrench, I even gave how to do the maths.
craigoodwood
Well-Known Member
I did need a new hub yes as I had noticed the rumble and knowing about the leak too..... And 3 amigos no, I was plagued with it from the day I brought it to the day I parked it up, I did however manage to get most of the way to Barmouth once before they came on
DON'T undo the sensor, keep it attached. It is so sensitive to the gap.....
If you get a new hub it will come with the sensor attached, fit the hub without removing the sensor, to preserve the gap between it and the reluctor ring.
And in that case I suppose it doesn't matter if you take the sensor off the old one, as long as you remove it from the rest of the loom.
But if you are just going to fit a new seal, unplug the sensor from the loom and disengage it from all the clips etc, so that you can fit a new seal, then put it all back together again without disturbing the sensor.
Thanks Stanley! I am not sure if you have undone and done 1-1/4" hub nut using 1/2" hex drive 30" breaker. I found this one can do max 512NM https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15318810...iYDbyuHTjt+hTVWoew23uUug==|tkp:Bk9SR4CGuZWOYQ
490NM is equal to 50KGM, I can stand at 0.625m (24.6") point with 80KG.
490NM is equal to 50KGM, I can stand at 0.625m (24.6") point with 80KG.
I have undone and done up three out of the 4 hubs on my TD5.
Doing them up to the correct torque using one's body weight is the way many of us do it.
BUT undoing one that has been done up for years can take considerably MORE torque. The front nearside took a scaffold bar and still lots of weight on it. I am amazed that my 1/2" breaker bar didn't break at the connection to the socket. It's a Draper Expert one.
I just tried undoing the nut with 30” breaker bar, I think it is over 490nm. But it was too stubborn to loosen it even if I jumped up and down on the breaker bar. Any suggestions? like heating up it with torch and hammering it around, not sure if it would damage drive shaft or hub.
You need to use the Landy's weight, or a very long extension as I had to. But if you don't have a scaffold bar to hand, here are a few suggestions.
Put the breaker bar and socket on the nut hanging down to the
Or ensure it is in P or in gear, handbrake fully on and preferably get someone to ram the foot brake to the floor. Jack the car up so the wheel is off the ground. Rest the end of the breaker bar on an axle stand. Then lower the car.
I would seriously not go anywhere near it with heat.
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2 metres????Thanks! Fortunately a builder nearby gave me 2 meters scaffold to make it. I heard a break noise and thought my breaker bar was broken. However it is still intact
You were lucky, mine had to be much longer than that!!
But still you did it.
Well done!
