sierrafery
Well-Known Member
The fault code is the same with the new feed?
malcolm jones
Member
It clears the fault but when you start it up it re generates the fault gearbox selector
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Continuity tests are necessary on the wires between the xyz switch and header joint C0724(which is embeded in that harness) the wire colours are the same from the switch to the header and from the header toward the BCU and EAT ECU
malcolm jones
Member
I'll try but not good with wiring lol got my own business garden machinery sales and repaires so trying to do it in between
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I've just had a mind flash.... put a 1A inline fuse on that new feed you made eventually if it doesnt blow measure voltage on it cos it might drop due to somne resistive short as if it drops below 10V the ECU will not recognise the outputs, also this can be the reason of missing feed from the BCU cos it has a protection in it and if it feels a short to ground it cuts the feed
malcolm jones
Member
Sorry guys just picked up messages just come in from a nightmare day in workshop on mowers lol I don't have any 1 ap fuses did not even no they went done that low
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
It's always recommended to use such small fuses inline when you are piggibacking non working circuits connected to ECUs for test, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Amp-Bla...utomotive-Fuse-Pack-1A-1Amp-1-A-/180738378469... at least measure that voltage and if you made new feed cut the original wire close to the BCU's plug as to not backfeed the BCU
Naki kouyioumtzis
Active Member
Hi all. i am yet another to have to this issue. I have done lots of reading on this, and theres loads of forums threads out there and mostly everyone says the same information.
I did all the recommended checks regarding battery voltage, strong connections on the leads, earth straps (i even added and additional engine to chassis earth lead to make sure) and then changed the XY switch for a brand new one. But nothing fixed it, until i went to my friendly local main dealer, where i got the key piece of information.
"9/10 its transmission wiring loom that has a broken wire, near where it fixes with the P clip".
Sure enough, on removing the loom i found a broken wiring on one of the T junctions. Only one wire was broken, and a few others had some slight chaffing. Soldered up the break and now even is back to normal.
very happy to finally have solved this issue
I will add some pics asap.
I did all the recommended checks regarding battery voltage, strong connections on the leads, earth straps (i even added and additional engine to chassis earth lead to make sure) and then changed the XY switch for a brand new one. But nothing fixed it, until i went to my friendly local main dealer, where i got the key piece of information.
"9/10 its transmission wiring loom that has a broken wire, near where it fixes with the P clip".
Sure enough, on removing the loom i found a broken wiring on one of the T junctions. Only one wire was broken, and a few others had some slight chaffing. Soldered up the break and now even is back to normal.
very happy to finally have solved this issue
I will add some pics asap.
Last edited:
Naki kouyioumtzis
Active Member
Naki kouyioumtzis
Active Member
malcolm jones
Member
Thanks for reply sorted mine out it had reverted itself back to manual mode in setting switched it back to auto in the diagnostic and all lights came back on dash and it's be sorted for the last few months if any one wants a brand new x y z switch I have a brand new Oem one I never used will sell it for £190 and thanks for info
Bobdog
Well-Known Member
had this issue today and a quick search led me to this thread. saw this post and gave it a try - it worked!Had this problem with mine....was told by a friend if the battery is giving out a good voltage, it could be the XYZ switch sticking. He told me to hold the auto gear stick button in and vigorously move it forwards and backwards a number of times. This sorted it and its been fine ever since
sticky xyz switch. i suppose unless you use all the gears rather than just P, D and R, the switch could get gunked up. moral is, try the simple things first.
Bobdog
Well-Known Member
thats the next thing i will be checking. it doesn't seem to be running as smoothly as it should. nothing anyone else might notice but you know your own car. got a couple of unexpected days off so i'll be having a look.
thebiglad
Well-Known Member
If you're "going in" can I suggest you do something else? Check the MAP sensor on the inlet manifold. It's not at all unknown for these to be so caked up with black clag that they don't work correctly. Clean off with aerosol brake & clutch cleaner. Takes 2 to 3 mins but deffo helps with the running.
Bobdog
Well-Known Member
i have actually done that fairly recently though i might give it another clean. i know my maf sensor is dead, (no signal on neilly's nanocom) but it was running ok on default. it just seems very slightly 'rougher' than it used to be with a kind of 'rumble' at around 2000rpm. my engine mounts have seen better days so that probably doesn't help.
neilly
Well-Known Member
You still have not fixed it? But I suppose at the time you had other things to sorry about....LOL.
Cheers
Bobdog
Well-Known Member
well... i did swap it for my old one which i cleaned up (very carefully!) but i dont know if that one was working as there was no noticeable difference. after having to splash out on a torque converter, i didnt have much left for a new maf sensor!
malcolm jones
Member
Hi guys my issue as been sorted it turned out to be the thing had reverted to a manual in diagnostics when I switched it back to auto everything came right .I bought an Oem xyz switch ready but have not used it still in box if any body wants one at a discounted price I’ll let it go for £280.00ono I think I paid about £350 with vat if any one is interested just message me on her
brian47
Well-Known Member
I've got a manual Disco so I don't need one but I'm sure that @blue beasty might offer you at least a half chewed Mars bar for it.
