HOME PAGE for the ultra low offset Modulars I have on mine.

10" uber or 8" moderate. Less extreme Modulars available anywhere, but IMO a 12.5 tyre deserves a 10" wheel.

Tyres? I'd look at BFG muds money permitting, or coopers. Extreme patterns are available in the size but £££££

Tbh my maxxis do the job but they aren't great. They were on eBay at the time and I could afford them :D
 
Also mm4x4 do a nice complete 3" kit.

Buy qt3 front arms and qt double cranked rear arms.

Also mm4x4 say you wont need dislocation cones on the rear with the 3" kit but as the dampers give a little and the springs sag a little, you will. So fit them all at the same time.

Also if you've got a spare 200 budget for an adjustable panhard rod from qt with a Rose joint. It's the next thing on my shopping list but I'm a bit skint these days - wish I'd bought one when I first fitted the lift kit!

Cheers

Cheers
 
ALSO

if you've already body lifted and you're fitting 3" suspension lift, why not for 35s?

Considerably better off road.
 
Hi enjoying this, I am doing similar to mine but this time more light sand with flappy grinder and paint, the one I have now is touch wood, very rust free,although my last one was like yours.
My thought looking at where you have rust and also the extent of it is, your disco would have had to have had a dodgy MOT the last time, as there is more than 12 months rotting time there.
Mr noisy,your finished disco looks fabulous...
 
Interesting read and great project mate. I'm looking at lifting the body on mine as I want to fit 35" tyres to my Disco next.
Just the idea of un-bolting my body and raising it scares me lol.

Chris
 
I would body lift mine in theory but ive got hangups abOut things not fitting together properly. For instance the bumpers and sliders either sit too low or need to have brackets made (too much work for a lazy man called sam)

The only way is a body lift on a disco but I can't see myself doing it. I heard it's pretty easy though, not a big deal at all, maybe just a bit surreal! :D
 
Yer I the same the lift itself is fairly straight forward, but its the raising other parts too match. Also saying about the flex in the footwell I'd want to sort out as I am known for crashing about a bit off road. So someone sort of custom cross bracing would need to be fabricated.
Still with a bit for brains and a welder anything is possible.
 
Body lift is simply a set of 8 spacers. 1 for each bodymount. main probs are lifting bumpers and extending gear & transfer levers.
 
Well Good Evening Everyone from my HOME office desk now and its Monday Evening.

So the weekend went OK however I was nursing a mother of all hangovers on Saturday morning. One minute I'm there putting my mates son's BMX back together and the next I'm in the middle of the road staggering like a well shagged sheep. (Not that I know what a well shagged sheep staggers like but imagine that it wouldn't be mush different than I)

Anyhow. I endeavoured to start the welding but FIRST came the grinding and boy did that hurt my ears!! So several Anadin later and a few cups of coffee and things were no different so I manned up and got on with it.

As mentioned before the parts were brought from YRM Metal (New Website online now which is quite nice - needs better picture though) and the quality is brilliant!!

Over the weekend I welded on both rear body mounts and repaired the rear cross member and rebuilt the corner. A little faffing about but basically it was still cheaper and quicker than messing with a new item. £16.00 for a universal boot floor panel sorted all the patch panels I will need.

Once finished the rear end was lifted a further 40mm or so PLUS the boot now closes really nicely (Like a golf but not a golf:)) You can see from the photos that they have made a big difference.

I have primed with Red Oxide and now I am undersealing over the top as I go.

Next up is the drivers sill which I cut out in readiness for 100x50x3mm RHS complete with rock/tree sliders. Yeah Baby!!!!

SUSPENSION

OK as some people have hi-jacked the thread (I feel violated :D) I will discuss suspension - BTW its all Mr Noisy's fault having a nice truck will silly wheels :rolleyes:

I am looking at a 3" lift from MM4x4 as suggested by his loudness, however I am wondering what the difference a dual shock setup will actually make.

Lets face it - Most of the kits around do use low price budget shocks so the valving isn't going to be great so I thought that duall shocks may help the poor little blighters out and stop then getting too hot under the gaters:)

I am going to be running 33x12.5x15 as I feel 35's will make the car cry out for different diff gearing.

Please what are your thoughts!! oh god I had to ask .... :hysterically_laughi
 

Attachments

  • Rear Cross Member Side (640x480).jpg
    Rear Cross Member Side (640x480).jpg
    54.3 KB · Views: 1,749
  • Rear Cross Member  (640x480).jpg
    Rear Cross Member (640x480).jpg
    52.4 KB · Views: 2,365
  • Rear Cross Member Patch (640x480).jpg
    Rear Cross Member Patch (640x480).jpg
    49.6 KB · Views: 1,724
  • Rear Body Mount Patch (640x480).jpg
    Rear Body Mount Patch (640x480).jpg
    34.4 KB · Views: 1,789
  • New Body Mount Close Up (640x480).jpg
    New Body Mount Close Up (640x480).jpg
    57.5 KB · Views: 2,121
  • After New Body Mounts (640x480).jpg
    After New Body Mounts (640x480).jpg
    90.8 KB · Views: 2,093
Last edited:
Ham Salad - (You weren't eating a sandwich when you joined were you :D)
You're right the MOT must have been as dodgy as they come. the floor had several holes in it and the sills were well past their rust by date.

Co-Pang-Yang - The body lift was very easy!!! (either that or I'm so up a creek and paddless that I just don't see the danger)

I made the mounts myself and they are strong. Purchased some 150mmXM10 bolts with Nylocks and away I went.

Firstly I did undid all the mounts leaving the nuts on. Then undid the drivers side first. Lifted the body - inserted blocks and then bolted loosely. Repeated the other side and tightened it all up. (Well last bits a lie I am tightening up as I weld and make repairs)

The gearlever is lower and you can get an extender, I'm not sure I will bother. The radiator needs small extensions to the top mounts however I may just redrill the slam panel and relocate the mounts - Easy Peasy.

Mr Noisy,

Where did you get your QT3 cranked arms and trailing arms. Also where did you get your suspension kit from? I am just struggling to decide and would like a little help in the right direction. Cheers

The steering seems fine and the only thing I am buying tonight are the seat belt extensions for the underside mounts x4.

As for the floor pan flexing, well that sorted by adding a couple of spacers, one each side.

There you go a 2" lift performed by myself in an afternoon.:)
 
Well mate I gotta hand it to you, you are a bloody witty bugger! :D

Compliments aside however:

I must admit I notice that my single pro comp dampers are fine on road, fine off road but very bouncy when the car gets a bounce on. Boingy boing boing to say the least sometimes! Double pro comps would be a cheap/functional/cool way to improve your damping.

I got my suspension kit from mm4x4 including the qt3 radius arms and Britpart cranked rear arms. It included bearmach springs/pro comp dampers with rubber boots from bearmach/polybush kit/goodridge lines/few nuts and bolts/hd turret rings and spring retainers. It came to about 700 delivered Inc vat. Which I thought was good.

With hindsight I would buy qt double cranked rear arms (Rose joint not necessary for most people) and the qt3 front arms direct from qt online. You will make a slight saving and mm4x4 don't sell the rear arms iirc.

However IMO the mm4x4 kit was complete, worked well, and was listed for just over 300 quid I think so id buy it again. It's got to be easier than sourcing the parts individually!

My only advice is to buy basic rear dislocation cones because you will need them when the springs sag and/or the damper rubbers stretch.. Mm4x4 told me they weren't necessary and indeed they weren't for over a year's offroading.

Hope that helps, cheers.
 
I've noticed my Pro-Comps take a few bounces before they settle when you rock off the rear bumper.
Good thing the twin shock kit looks so good as you say. :D
 
Yeah man, give my pro comps a few yumps off road or even worse a gently rolling green lane and you can get thrown about inside. It is quite funny though :D
 
ive been toying with the bucket seat idea. people say that full buckets are nice, but literally a pain in the ass when offroading cos youre in and out all the time.

do you sit at the correct height with the subaru seats? cos the disco seats are quite tall.

cheers.

p.s. thread violation alert :D
 
Aye the side bolsters make getting in and out more entertaining but its not a struggle for me.
Think I've managed to get them at pretty much the same height as the standard seats.
 
Interesting read and great project mate. I'm looking at lifting the body on mine as I want to fit 35" tyres to my Disco next.
Just the idea of un-bolting my body and raising it scares me lol.

Chris

No problems mate, just do it, the body will lift easy, I am going to do mine next....
 
Well Good Evening Everyone from my HOME office desk now and its Monday Evening.

Anyhow. I endeavoured to start the welding but FIRST came the grinding and boy did that hurt my ears!! So several Anadin later and a few cups of coffee and things were no different so I manned up and got on with it.

i`ve just had to use my angle grinder recently cutting up rebar (another project)and the noise was too much.
i ended up wearing an old arai full face. seriously, what a difference. it really is`nt an issue now using the angle grinder.
 

Similar threads