CharlesY said:
My SAAB 900 Turbo Aero 16v is on 140,000 miles plus, and the last 100 k miles of that is on TUO.

Just goes to prove what the man says ... TUO will wreck your engine ...

My Disco TD5 is on 80,000 miles, the last 60,000 on TUO.

Just goes to prove what the man says ... TUO will wreck your engine ...

My tractor is 30 years old, original engine (never touched) and always uses TUO.

Just goes to prove what the man says ... TUO will wreck your engine ...

Every engine that comes here for an oil change is filled with TUO, and NONE has ever had a problem in decades, cars, Landies of every sort, the lot.

Just goes to prove what the man says ... TUO will wreck your engine ...

As the man says, TUO will wreck your engine ...

I know from EXPERIENCE, whereas he knows only from THEORY and advertising hype.

CharlesY
Click to expand...


Hi Charles, I understand and accept completely that you speak as you find, but you understand the differences in oil technology whereas others who are perhaps newer to working on their own cars (and balancing these arguments with experience) cannot do.

Also, oil has to fulfil certain roles as we know but if the main driving force behind useful tractor oil is cost, then for me that is not a good enough reason for moving away from the whole domestic car market oils.

If the poster uses for example a 10-40 semi synth, he can buy that anywhere, even supermarkets, in quantities that are 'manageable'.

I am not for one moment decrying your experience - but you are not the only one to have such an in-depth connection and understanding with these vehicles and I, for 1, do not agree with your assumption that tractor oil is better than anything which can be found "off the shelf" at a motor factors.

For me the best solution is using a high spec oil (not neccesarily brand named) such as a B3 or even (in my TD5) a B5 oil, buy at the best price you can of course, and change it and the filter(s) regularly.

Cheers

Dave

Ps I may have missed it - but what viscosity rating is this TUO? 15-40, 10-40?
 
davek0974 said:
BTW, What sort of price difference ARE we talking about here????
Click to expand...

Hi Dave, I can only comment on what I buy, from my local Carrefour usually.

5 ltrs of 10w-40 semi synth is 14.95 euros - B3

5 ltrs of 5w-40 fully synth is 21.95 - B3

5 ltrs of 5w-30 fully synth is 23.95 - B5


I just had a quick look at a couple of tractor oil sites such as Millers and their various engine oils were between £15 and £18+vat, for 5 ltrs. So for me it's a no-brainer !!!!
 
Sean said:
the price of a few beers if you're only doing 6k a year
Click to expand...


How many do more than say 12000 / year in a disco?

It looks like a pointles argument unless TUO is like £1 / ltr or something.

I'm sticking with regular oil i think :eek:
 
I love reading miss-information about oil. Just goes to show the "oil is oil" people don't actually get it.....
 
I couldn't resist, haven't laughed so hard in ages:hysterically_laughi. I work for a company that specializes in oil training with regards to specs and application and oil make-up.
 
I use tractor oil too . My engines have run sweet on it for years . I.E. Subaru legacy, and disco 300tdi.
 
Last edited:
Theres nowt wrong with UVoil, it just doesnt have the required anti frothing and anti acid agents required for long life operartion. But if its changed every say 3000 then no harm will be done.

Its the additives that give oil its lasting properties, and, in the case of the PD vw engine, give extra protection. This engine must have 5w30 vag ultra or 5w40 pd grade specific. no other oil will do and engine failure from the wrong oil can happen in less than 1000 miles. So in short, any old oil wont do at all in many cases.

I run fully synthetic 10w40 diesel grade that has low ash technology as well. I admit, it is absolute over kill in every respect apart from the 10w40 bit. Its very dear compared to 15w40 or 10w40 normal grades.

BUT.... it gives better fuel economy, faster starting, the engine is just as quiet as with 15w40 (although i suspect with a high mileage engine that it would make it a bit louder) and for the the extra cost, it stays in the engine longer. The extra additives help to break down the crud and pass it to the filter where as cheaper oils suspend the crud and carry it to the filter in larger particles which clog the filter faster.

Low ash means a low acid content which leads to less engine wear and longer lasting filter media.

I could go on for ever ha ha....
 
We've always used cheapo unipart turbo D oil high temp range with slick 50. Main reason is it's changed after every race or 2. One time a rover v8 rad burst kept going engine got seriously hot enough to allow the engine to seize up its racing so change down eventually low box and it's dead. Parked it up left it 6 hours bro went to put it on the trailer and it fired up and ran.

To do that after the mistreatment it had means we kept going with the same stuff.

Last batch of oil was e7 or b7 can't remember I think, it exceeded specs by along way and cheap when in bulk.
 
im not keen on slick 50 although I have no doubt it does allow an engine to run dry of oil or water and re-fire again after cooling. Somthing to do with suspended ptfe particles etc
 
I use zx1, its more or less the same idea, but a fluid not a solid. Snake oil or not, it seems to make the engine run better.
 
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