L

landyandy30

New Member
through some investigation, i have found there is an easy way to bypass the disco immobiliser, wanted to share this as its a lot easier than stripping down the dash board to get to the top of the heater matrix to find the faulty box of trix.
1. if the dam car cuts out when running , but then works fine after being left turned off 5 mins. run a wire from the fuel solenoid to the ignition switch, remove the cover on the opposite side to the key and connect to the white wire. (leave the original in place)
2. if the car fails to start due to no power to the starter motor.run a wire from the starter solenoid (leave the original in place) into the footwell in the drivers side, remove the plastic acess pannel, find the starter relay, find thick brown/red wire and connect into it.

The immobiliser disables both the fuel solenoid and the starter motor. and can fail on just one or both opperations . installing these two wires gives you a reliable landrover again, till the next fault. ha ha,
 
landyandy30 said:
through some investigation, i have found there is an easy way to bypass the disco immobiliser, wanted to share this as its a lot easier than stripping down the dash board to get to the top of the heater matrix to find the faulty box of trix.
1. if the dam car cuts out when running , but then works fine after being left turned off 5 mins. run a wire from the fuel solenoid to the ignition switch, remove the cover on the opposite side to the key and connect to the white wire. (leave the original in place)
2. if the car fails to start due to no power to the starter motor.run a wire from the starter solenoid (leave the original in place) into the footwell in the drivers side, remove the plastic acess pannel, find the starter relay, find thick brown/red wire and connect into it.

The immobiliser disables both the fuel solenoid and the starter motor. and can fail on just one or both opperations . installing these two wires gives you a reliable landrover again, till the next fault. ha ha,
Click to expand...

I think we may just have covered that one.:p

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/alarm-system-55949.html
 
I did this however My brown/red wire did not give me my 12VDC when the key is turned to cranking mode. I did find a white/red wire from the key switch to the fusable link that gave me my 12VDC. This seems to work fine and I'm back on the road again... until... well you know. Haha
 
martinhollings said:
if my car gets nicked tonight i am coming to see you:)
Click to expand...

I know the spider issue is well known and there are lots of tips out there to suggest ways of dealing with it but I do wonder if this thread is a step too far.. seems like offering it on a plate..

however if my car gets nicked tonight it'll save me having to fix the brakes on Saturday and the toerag what nicks it will get their comeuppance when they try and stop..
 
Hi Guy's novice to this so bear with me, wondering what your thoughts are with my problem could be linked to your post. Done very little investigation work yet planning it this weekend.
Driving along on Sunday night, Landy died! No dash lights on position 1 of key and nothing after....Dead! Lights still working, no indicators, no radio and no elect windows. Alarm arms and disarms and light flashes on dash, only light that comes on dash.
Checked all fuses and connections I can get to, all fine. Has now sat 2 days and still the same. Tried doing the immobilisation override procedure as there is a code written on the front of handbook, no joy and not sure if it is correct code, just 4 digit code written but no info on what it is.

Any ideas

Cheers Jim
 
check the ignition switch wiring if you lose 12v live to the back of the swtch when you try to crank it over. run a fused live direct from battery to back of switch. Also check live into left hand stalk. and do same with this if necessary
 
trying to bypass immobiliser,have done starter motor,how do you connect the white ignition wire to the sloenoid on the fuel pump,and where is the solenoid,as there are 2 and which wire is as there are 3 on the solenoid,many thanks
 
Re: discovery 300tdi immobiliser bypass, the easy way.i`m claire my husband is trying this at the mo,however which pump solenoid works with the immolbiliser is it the shut off one or the timing solenoid,as this is the last thing he has to wire to,thanks kindest regards claire
 
Jimm67 said:
Hi Guy's novice to this so bear with me, wondering what your thoughts are with my problem could be linked to your post. Done very little investigation work yet planning it this weekend.
Driving along on Sunday night, Landy died! No dash lights on position 1 of key and nothing after....Dead! Lights still working, no indicators, no radio and no elect windows. Alarm arms and disarms and light flashes on dash, only light that comes on dash.
Checked all fuses and connections I can get to, all fine. Has now sat 2 days and still the same. Tried doing the immobilisation override procedure as there is a code written on the front of handbook, no joy and not sure if it is correct code, just 4 digit code written but no info on what it is.

Any ideas

Cheers Jim
Click to expand...

Hi Jim, it sounds to me like you have an ignition switch problem. New ones are cheap so my advice is: don't muck about, fit a new one - takes about 5 mins.
 
It's also good to know for everyone who's wondering about immobiliser problems that an immobilised motor still cranks normally...it just wont start...................or am i wrong:confused::eek:
 
sierrafery said:
It's also good to know for everyone who's wondering about immobiliser problems that an immobilised motor still cranks normally...it just wont start...................or am i wrong:confused::eek:
Click to expand...

If it's a V8 it don't crank, now all you have to do is get a reply on what happens with a diesel engine disco, I don't have a clue :D
 
sierrafery said:
you are right....i always forget that there are petrol disco's too which are still runnin':D
Click to expand...

I'm also interested in diesel, what the fuel is I don't care but still only if it's a V8.
There are now two Land Rovers to choose from rrs and rr :D
 
If you do as Landyandy says and leave the original wire on the starter solenoid and the imobliser comes back to life you may find as i did that the starter motor remains engaged after the engine has fired.(Ithink the starter is working as a genarator and the extra wire acts as an earth so keeping the solenoid engaged) SO disconnect original wire, it worked fine for me
 
discool said:
I'm also interested in diesel, what the fuel is I don't care but still only if it's a V8.
There are now two Land Rovers to choose from rrs and rr :D
Click to expand...

The diesels won't crank either. I've been out to quite a few disco's recently that have failed to start due to lost feeds. With the V8's they had lost the 12v to the coil while cranking and with diesels they had lost the feed to the fuel stop solenoid while being cranked. All of em have shown the feed as present when the ignition is on. It is often down to knackered ignition switch rather than immobiliser.
 
ratty said:
The diesels won't crank either. I've been out to quite a few disco's recently that have failed to start due to lost feeds. With the V8's they had lost the 12v to the coil while cranking and with diesels they had lost the feed to the fuel stop solenoid while being cranked. All of em have shown the feed as present when the ignition is on. It is often down to knackered ignition switch rather than immobiliser.
Click to expand...
Love and respect the useful responses but do all you carpet pilots have to crawl up 'Ratty's' anal cavity every time he submits a comment ?:rolleyes: :eek:
 
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