Mooncat63 said:
They are saying the wires are corroded would take to much time to cut them back solder new ones in 😒
Click to expand...

u have a few options as I mentioned of either getting a second hand loom from a breakers or making up a new loom and cutting Out the bad section of loom then using the heat shrink joints that have the solder built in , then bigger heat shrink over that to protect the joints further

is that loom by the rear passenger side chassis plse by the wheel , thks

many of the looms can be quite big where they run front to back , if they didn’t want to cut in a new loom u would have to go back to every connector which would take a considerable amount of time

hope that helps
 
marjon said:
Not the way to go and if you actually brought all the kit to fix what you have it wouldn't amount to the much;) .

Man math:p.

If your able? we dont know OP ability.

You all good Gary? Have a good Xmas👍.

J
Click to expand...

indeed mate and hear more and more where some garages can’t be bothered to fix it , trying to sell a customer a complete new expensive system and as we know would totally destroy the ride quality along with disabling the height facility

not bad thks, suffering big time with my back as usual , cold doesn’t help, hope ur well my friend and likewise in having a good Xmas
 
lynall said:
Make your own loom one wire at a time, use superseal connectors for the joint over the chassis rail.
Do not solder, solder is proper dogshti outside of the cabin, use the heat shrink re/blue crimps.
Click to expand...

hi mate

funny enough also suggested that in regards to makimg up a new loom or getting a second hand loom and cutting it in

pretty sure that loom is quite big seeing the connectors are at the front and run all the way to those 3 x connectors that sit on the rear chassis rail

funny enough I like those connectors that have the solder inside , when I’ve used a few of them them have put a bigger piece of heat shrink over the top to further protect them

hope ur good mate
 
1988smithy said:
As marjon said mate, if you're half handy you can prob sort this with a bit of time

@gstuart dont they rub thru in a certain place?
Click to expand...

hiya

plus 1 as also suggested either making up a new loom or cutting in a second hand loom

have read the height sensor looms can rub through along with problems of the large 3 x connectors that sit on the rear chassis rail ,

know when I rebuilt my suspension I ensured looms where properly secured in order they didn’t flop around in the wind, plus prevent any hanging down with the risk of getting ripped out off road

years ago I had a series 3 that started to smoke behind the instrument panel whilst driving down a high street , on inspection I found a big melted lump of wires , connectors everywhere that had just been taped together

took the large loom out , laid it on the floor and then ran a new piece of wire one by one and making up a whole new loom , really enjoyed it as was very satisfying in the end
 
Mooncat63 said:
It's not giving a signal back so guessing broken wire somewhere between front and rear,
Click to expand...

Hope u don’t mind me saying but as a side note looking at that picture I would look behind ur rear passenger side wheel arch liner and sills for rust

do u happen to have steps fitted plse , thks
 
gstuart said:
hi mate

funny enough also suggested that in regards to makimg up a new loom or getting a second hand loom and cutting it in

pretty sure that loom is quite big seeing the connectors are at the front and run all the way to those 3 x connectors that sit on the rear chassis rail

funny enough I like those connectors that have the solder inside , when I’ve used a few of them them have put a bigger piece of heat shrink over the top to further protect them

hope ur good mate
Click to expand...
The connectors with solder inside are fine, it is plain wire soldered and covered with normal heat shrink that are trouble in the making, so long as the heatshrink/crimp has heat activated glue in it then it ill be okay.
 
lynall said:
The connectors with solder inside are fine, it is plain wire soldered and covered with normal heat shrink that are trouble in the making, so long as the heatshrink/crimp has heat activated glue in it then it ill be okay.
Click to expand...

Many thks , I also wonder if this liquid tape is any good for joints , particularly ones that are in the elements

IMG_8517.jpeg
 
gstuart said:
Many thks , I also wonder if this liquid tape is any good for joints , particularly ones that are in the elements

View attachment 305454
Click to expand...
Sadly I don't think anything is ever truly waterproof that is under the vehicle
Whatever connector you use you will have to put some sort of contact spray waterproof grease in the joint itself
The small crimp butt connectors are pretty good in that respect very similar to the solder ones that you like.
The Superseal type are quite decent, again still need contact spray for belt and braces, been using them a lot just lately.
 
Last edited:
lynall said:
Sadly I don't think anything is ever truly waterproof that is under the vehicle
Whatever connector you use you will have to put some sort of contact spray waterproof grease in the joint itself
The small crimp butt connectors are pretty good in that respect very similar to the solder ones that you like.
The Superseal type are quite decent, again still need contact spray for belt and braces, been using them a lot just lately.
Click to expand...

very true mate , apart from using those crimps that have the solder inside, then cut the heat shrink a lot longer over the join , plus has the adhesive inside

these are some I’ve used with great success , went for the marine ones but alas don’t know if there truly better than others , second link has nearly 40,000 good reviews

Amazon product

Amazon product
 
lynall said:
Them Deusche connectors are pretty decent.
Click to expand...

indeed never had a problem with them , did apply some silicone grease to help them click together

also found the link for u about those 3 x way connectors , handy for spot lights etc , plus some 1 x metre pre made amp extension cables that are also handy if u wish to cut out a section of bad wiring or from a spot light etc

hope it’s useful to u mate


 
Last edited:
gstuart said:
Plus another thing I like are the conduit fittings for the amp connectors

View attachment 305564
Click to expand...
Yes we use them as well and the t pieces.
Bear in mind their sizing is kind of weird some is the inside diameter of the conduit and some of the outside diameter of the conduit,
Plus what I would term as a male supaseal is actually a female supaseal.
 
Bought some chinese copy supaseal connectors and pliers from ebay, 31 quid the lot, have to say they crimp easier and nicer than the 50 quid pliers that I normally use!
The fittings look and feel just like the real ones.
The trick is to make sure the seal also goes into the crimp as well as the wire, do not crimp the wire then poke the seal into the connector afterwards as it will not be watertight.

Screen Shot 2023-12-31 at 21.08.33.png
Screen Shot 2023-12-31 at 21.08.59.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
3 door front seats
Replies
0
Views
462
Scoobyd1
S
M
Discovery 3 Safety Airbag Count
Replies
0
Views
181
mcbrl
M
DorsetDiscovery
Discovery 3 Alarm
Replies
7
Views
656
DorsetDiscovery
DorsetDiscovery
D
Body Swap Discovery 3
Replies
8
Views
1K
Graculus
Graculus
L
Rear heated switch( panel land rover discovery 3)
Replies
5
Views
488
LR-hobbs
L