tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
Will pull out the liner tomorrow check out the wiring too will run through it piece by piece
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
Thanks mate will check it out
Hi mate
How u getting on my friend plse
Hope u don’t mind me mentioning but the 3 x connectors that are normally behind the passenger side wheel arch liner I’m pretty sure after 2007 they were moved to behind the passenger side headlight
The 3 x connectors are black, grey and blue,, unless of course they’ve changed the colours, lol,
Apologises mate if u already knew that , Indeed was great fun in trying to find all the connections when I was fault finding the air suspension,
Hope ur making progress
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tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
Hi mate going to look at valve blocks and speed sensors and plugs today thanks will check and clean plugs behind headlights, previous owner did quite a bit of damage removing stuff maybe a wiring issue, going to put on axle stands wheels off liners out two already out ohm test on abs sensors will let you know how I get on, runs well though Lol
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
Graculus
Well-Known Member
Sometimes eyes are better than a meter!
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
Yeah your right couldn't miss this one lol, ordered two new fronts as their out, l also want to check ohm reading of a new one for reference, but do have a gut feeling this is not the only issue but fingers crossed
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
Run through all plugs today cleaned with electrical cleaner nothing untoward. Used cleaner on the outside of the plugs to help to free off the little clips. Visibly all looked ok, checked out speed sensors as this could explain at least two of the codes I think, one was faulty and damaged but later on found I could get intermittent reading, ordered two new sensors for the front and also a brake sensor, couldn't unplug the rear valve block without removing it so will wait for new one as I want to check other issues. Fitted another oem front valve block hopefully will take care of one code.Tomorrow going to try to check continuity from the dynamics unit to the sensors when I've worked out how, I suppose worst case scenario is dynamics unit to ecutesting.com, ironically found more issues bottom arm and brake pipe on l/h will keep investigating, other stuff to do tomorrow but back on it in the evening
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Graculus
Well-Known Member
The rear valve block is on keyhole slots, just slide upwards. When you say 'dynamics unit' do you mean the terrain response module with the dial on it? If so, that won't be the cause of a fault, it only reports faults triggered by other modules (in this case, ABS [speed sensors] and RLM [suspension valve blocks]) don't waste your time chasing anything else until those are sorted.
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
Yes abs unit and valve block's only at this point suspected and concentrated on, waiting for a rear vb before removal
Hi mate
Great that ur making further progress, must confess that rear valve block is indeed awkward to get out, changed all my Voss connections with pushfit which made life a lot easier particularly for that rear one
Assume as those 3 x connectors being moved to behind the headlight the earths have also been moved , know I went round using a dremel to take the earths tabs off there connections and cleaning all of them, reassembling using some copperslip
Apologises if you’ve already got a wiring diagram for the air suspension, wished to at least include it just in case
May I please ask have u cleared all the codes and rescanned it to see what ones come back , of course understand some errors might not show straight away if it’s not fully drivable at the moment
Another thing I found very useful was a decent test light to test lives and grounds , I also used a multimeter to test both sides of a connector to ensure the signal was passing from one side of the connector to the other
Did get caught out like that once where a pin had pushed it self back inside the connector , found it using a multimeter
Of course know ur very knowledgeable and hope u didn’t mind me mentioning it as of course the last thing I would want is trying to teach u how to suck eggs
All the best to u my friend and plse let us know how u get on
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
Hi mate waiting for new speed sensors before scanning again ap200 is spot on thanks for the heads up, where I'm at, found a bare wire on r/h sensor, ordered new fronts also want to check the ohm reading of a new ones arrive today, rear valve still on until new arrives, old one is constantly ticking have changed front block as was getting a code for that, later going to continuity test from sensor plugs to abs unit at least I think that's where they go? Yes cleaned and visibly checked all plugs and earths I came across all looked spot on, will go a bit deeper if neccessary, did a bit of painting too, be honest I have a gut feeling it's the abs controller worst case scenario it's only a trip to ecutesting.com, not stressing as it's a learning process never to old to learn thay say thanks for the wiring diagrams going in my Norfolk D3 bible, any help always appreciated from you guys all the best will see what happens tomorrow will let you know
Hi mate
Ref ur abs module circuit have u done a canbus test plse seeing one of the resisters are inside it
Just an idea and great u found the bare wire on the lead
With both battery leads disconnected from the battery posts
Multimeter set to ohms, ( TP Is just short for test probe from ur multimeter )
TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 14, read ohms , should be 60
TP to pin 3 other TP to pin 11, read ohms again should be 60
Hope that helps in a small way
Ref ur abs module circuit have u done a canbus test plse seeing one of the resisters are inside it
Just an idea and great u found the bare wire on the lead
With both battery leads disconnected from the battery posts
Multimeter set to ohms, ( TP Is just short for test probe from ur multimeter )
TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 14, read ohms , should be 60
TP to pin 3 other TP to pin 11, read ohms again should be 60
Hope that helps in a small way
Forgot to add when I had canbus erros of these tests I done, did find it easier using a breakout box
Reconnect battery, ign off, meter set to Vdc
TP to pin 6 other TP pin 4 Read Vdc ( should be around 2.5 Vdc
TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 5 Read Vdc
TP to pin 14 other TP to pin 4 Read Vdc ( should be around 2.5 Vdc
TP to pin 14 other TP to pin 5 Read Vdc
Reconnect battery, ign off, meter set to Vdc
TP to pin 6 other TP pin 4 Read Vdc ( should be around 2.5 Vdc
TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 5 Read Vdc
TP to pin 14 other TP to pin 4 Read Vdc ( should be around 2.5 Vdc
TP to pin 14 other TP to pin 5 Read Vdc
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tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
You always help in a big way mate, many thanks. Front sensors read 01.1 on 200m setting, but on 2000 settings reads 489 but the damaged one flashes to 1650 then goes blank?, all readings otherwise the exact same on other three sensors on both settings will let you know readings on new ones be a pleasure, to be honest not sure what setting I should be using. I did look at canbus communication circuit with a resistor at each end, will try to do your test, little something else I would like to learn, I think you can also test canbus from the diagnostic port too, thanks for that, sorry to ask but where can i find a diagram of pin numbers particularly for the abs please any feedback on what you think of ohm readings if you could recommend a
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
Sorry ment to say can you reccomend a breakout box something else I would like to learn about many thanks for all you help and advice waiting for sensors today and rear valve block tomorrow many thanks mate
Hi mate
Ur so very welcome and pleasure helping where I can , indeed I done the testing from the obd2 port
Must confess still have a lot to learn but found it interesting seeing there’s a 120 ohms resister at each end of the high and low canbus so indeed when u test them it should read 60ohms
Alas not sure what the ohms readings should be for the abs , that’s when I wondered if maybe the canbus test will show anything
These are the bits I got when I was fault finding a canbus error , found a bad earth that the ECM used as didn’t have a 5Vdc reference voltage to it , created all sorts of issues, did take a while to find
Found the abs pin for u, hope this helps
Ur so very welcome and pleasure helping where I can , indeed I done the testing from the obd2 port
Must confess still have a lot to learn but found it interesting seeing there’s a 120 ohms resister at each end of the high and low canbus so indeed when u test them it should read 60ohms
Alas not sure what the ohms readings should be for the abs , that’s when I wondered if maybe the canbus test will show anything
These are the bits I got when I was fault finding a canbus error , found a bad earth that the ECM used as didn’t have a 5Vdc reference voltage to it , created all sorts of issues, did take a while to find
Found the abs pin for u, hope this helps
