Gothicsera

Gothicsera

Member
Ah yes, this old chestnut.

I recently bought my old Disco 2 TD5 back after a few years. I sold it to a friend's dad who has looked after it well. He recently passed away and I've bought it back.

Even before I sold it, it was always gutless above about 2800rpm and that's still the case, we just never got around to looking into it's lack of power. To be honest it doesn't seem to pull like you'd expect below that either, but it does noticeably fall flat there

It's a 2000, with 217k miles on it. It had the head gasket done and injectors refurbished about 10k miles ago due to other issues. This made no difference to the lack of power, but did solve the other issues we had.

MAF reading is 58-60 at idle and seems to work OK.

It does still have the EGR connected. It doesn't smoke under load.

My list of things to look at is quite long, any other recommendations or where to start?
MAP sensor
Intercooler hoses and intercooler clean out
EGR blank/delete
Boost control solenoid and hoses
Check wastegate is free and actuator is functional.

I do have a Hawkeye Total which came with it, so hopefully I can get some data from that, or at least see if it's making the boost it should.

It has lots of other niggles and issues that I need to sort, but I would love to get to the bottom of this lack of power issue.
 
Read live data for start, a list with proper readings attached :
 

Attachments

  • Td5 sensor readings-page0001.jpg
    Td5 sensor readings-page0001.jpg
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Ok, got some data.

MAF - 40-45 idle, 550 full load at max rpm
Ambient pressure 99kPa with 1kPa drop at full load
Ambient temp - ok
MAP - 215kPa at full load and stable to max rpm
IAT - within range
Coolant temp - within range
Fuel temp - within range
 
Unplug the MAF, disconnect and clog the vacuum pipe from the EGR valve/or unplug the EGR solenoid's connector what ever you feel easyer) and tighten the wastegate rod to 10 threads left from the locknut then drive it so to see if it's better or not
 
Ok, back on this again. I am getting to the point that it's a fuel delivery issue. All of the sensor readings are OK, it's flowing the air (according to the MAF) and making the boost it should, but is still down on power and I think it's just not getting enough fuel.

Regardless so far I've done the following:

EGR deleted
New MAP sensor
New boost solenoid and hoses
New fuel pump (the old one was a little noisy) and fuel filter.
Adjusted wastegate

Out of interest I did a stall test and the engine only just managed to pull 2200rpm rather than the 2600rpm it should. According to the tech manual it does indicate low power.

Next up I'm going to unplig the MAF and see if its any better/worse and also replace the fuel pressure regulator.
 
EU2.

I just put a new injector harness in as there was some oil at the ECU. Hasn't made any difference, but it needed doing anyway

While I was in there I also checked the injector codes and they are all set correctly in the ECU.
 
Gothicsera said:
EU2.
Click to expand...
Then as the EGR was deleted the MAF is useless

as about points 1 and 2:
Gothicsera said:
1. injectors refurbished about 10k miles ago
Click to expand...
Gothicsera said:
2. checked the injector codes and they are all set correctly in the ECU.
Click to expand...
So when the injectors were refurbished did you set the new codes then? cos if they didnt get new codes that was a botched up job you can't rely on that cos it seems that you ruled out almost everything and as the stall test's result is low power and you have enough fuel pressure and boost i dont see what else could be... do this test https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/
 
sierrafery said:
Then as the EGR was deleted the MAF is useless

as about points 1 and 2:


So when the injectors were refurbished did you set the new codes then? cos if they didnt get new codes that was a botched up job you can't rely on that cos it seems that you ruled out almost everything and as the stall test's result is low power and you have enough fuel pressure and boost i dont see what else could be... do this test https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/
Click to expand...

Interesting, so MAF does nothing on EU2 without the EGR?

I read the injector codes off the tops of injectors when I did the harness. Then checked them in the ECU with my Hawkeye. They all match.

It was my ex's father who had the top end work done, and even before that it was down on power (i have a long history with this Disco). I can't ask him for any details as he unfortunately passed away a few weeks ago.

I just replaced the fuel pump yesterday, and also did the FPR today as well with a genuine LR one.

I will check out the link and do the tests.

Other than that I'm all out of ideas too.
 
Here we go again!! someone has a 25 year old, 2.5 ton of landrover with 200k on the clock and can not understand why it can not go up the road like a BMW M 5.
 
hughdavies said:
Here we go again!! someone has a 25 year old, 2.5 ton of landrover with 200k on the clock and can not understand why it can not go up the road like a BMW M 5.
Click to expand...
Not at all. It actually isn't making the power it should. I know what these should drive like...
 
hughdavies said:
Here we go again!! someone has a 25 year old, 2.5 ton of landrover with 200k on the clock and can not understand why it can not go up the road like a BMW M 5.
Click to expand...
Firstly it weighs 2.1 tons not 2.5, secondly, it has been acting like this for a long time not just recently i.e. with its "200k on the clock".
Thirdly, if you have nothing positive to post that might help why not simply naff off? :rolleyes:
 
Mine is a 2000 MY auto and it goes just fine, performance the same as when I bought it back 10 years ago, and yes it had a lot of miles under its belt then and it now has about 170 k now.

So is there anything else we need to know, like does it have huge tyres on it?
Exhaust not restricted?
Turbo to intercooler pipes not delaminating inside?
Just trying to think of anything else it might be.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Mine is a 2000 MY auto and it goes just fine, performance the same as when I bought it back 10 years ago, and yes it had a lot of miles under its belt then and it now has about 170 k now.

So is there anything else we need to know, like does it have huge tyres on it?
Exhaust not restricted?
Turbo to intercooler pipes not delaminating inside?
Just trying to think of anything else it might be.
Click to expand...
It's on standard size tyres on 17" rims.

As far as the exhaust goes, it has no cat (being EU2) and the rest looks ok, at least from the outside.

I've replaced the intercooler to EGR delete hose when I did the delete, but I haven't done the others yet, but that one was in good condition. I am planning to do the other 2 and flush the intercooler out.

Other than being low on power it runs smooth, and clean, no smoke.
 
Do make sure that all the intercooler hoses' clips are on properly and tight. I had one slip off once.

They have been known to have all sorts of gunk in the tank which can quickly block filters. How clean was everything when you changed the pump?
Also is the tank breather working properly? Does it ever hiss when you take the filler cap off?
 
sierrafery said:
You should double check the injector clearances to be tightened as in the book, i've seen cases when they were not set well and it was low power while everything else OK
Click to expand...
I will check them tomorrow.

Stanleysteamer said:
Do make sure that all the intercooler hoses' clips are on properly and tight. I had one slip off once.

They have been known to have all sorts of gunk in the tank which can quickly block filters. How clean was everything when you changed the pump?
Also is the tank breather working properly? Does it ever hiss when you take the filler cap off?
Click to expand...
The old pump was clean when removed.

All the hose clips are OK, and it is boosting to the correct pressure.
 
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