feelingaliveintheTD5 · Apr 28, 2020

Hi all!

I’m new to registering to landy zone so I dunno if I’ve done this right but here it goes!
I’ve got a 2000 Discovery 2 TD5 on 163000 miles, not so long ago I was doing around 600-620 miles to a tank about 32 MPG but then about mid way October last year it just all of a sudden dropped and started doing 500 to a tank about 24 mpg, it’s not my right foot as I can be miss daisy all day long
I’ve replaced the MAF sensor as it was faulty, EGR deLeted before all this anyway, new second hand intercooler, tried new MAP sensor nothing; ran fuel cleaner through and seemed to make a slight difference?
Anybody got any ideas as it’s just click from 32 to 24? I’m thinking maybe injector wear and sticking what’s everybody else’s prior experience and knowledge??
TIA
Cheers

berg450 · Apr 28, 2020

I have a 2003 td5 manual in really great condition and never had below 28 mpg (mixed driving condition). Are you sure that you had 32 mpg before? Have you checked it several times?
I usually refill the car on the same way and on the same petrol station (full, one click on the pistol) and calculate the mpg that way.

NPG · Apr 28, 2020

Assuming you're using genuine or at least VDO / Bosch for the MAF and MAP, the other sensors that affect fueling strategy are the ambient pressure sensor, the coolant temperature sensor and the fuel temperature sensor. Also you don't say if performance is impacted but if yours is a manual, a slipping clutch can also affect fuel economy.

sierrafery · Apr 28, 2020

Didnt you change the tyres prior of this consumption increasement? when was the air filter changed ?

feelingaliveintheTD5 said:
...new second hand intercooler...

how is that?

feelingaliveintheTD5 · Apr 28, 2020

berg450 said:
I have a 2003 td5 manual in really great condition and never had below 28 mpg (mixed driving condition). Are you sure that you had 32 mpg before? Have you checked it several times?
I usually refill the car on the same way and on the same petrol station (full, one click on the pistol) and calculate the mpg that way.

Yes bid it obviously verified slightly when I went greenlaning but usually I was getting about 620 miles to a tank which is five or take a couple 88-92 litres or there abouts and what I was putting in was about 89 litres each time which works out between 31-32 mpg?

feelingaliveintheTD5 · Apr 28, 2020

NPG said:
Assuming you're using genuine or at least VDO / Bosch for the MAF and MAP, the other sensors that affect fueling strategy are the ambient pressure sensor, the coolant temperature sensor and the fuel temperature sensor. Also you don't say if performance is impacted but if yours is a manual, a slipping clutch can also affect fuel economy.

Well I ran it for two fuel tanks worth on a new proven good genuine LR maf sensor and MAP sensor and no difference, oh ok so I see I’ll check them later, no performance doesn’t seem to be affected at all still running ok, and no the clutch doesn’t slip I’ve been before now towing (not usually) up a steep hill and no clutch slip.
Cheers

feelingaliveintheTD5 · Apr 28, 2020

sierrafery said:
Didnt you change the tyres prior of this consumption increasement? when was the air filter changed ?
how is that?

No tyres were still the same general grabbers AT air filter is clean and brand new even tried a Kone to see if it made a difference and no;
Arh I managed to get hold of a good secondhand intercooler from a friend and had it pressure tested for good measure as i wasn’t paying the price for a new one

feelingaliveintheTD5 · Apr 28, 2020

feelingaliveintheTD5 said:
Well I ran it for two fuel tanks worth on a new proven good genuine LR maf sensor and MAP sensor and no difference, oh ok so I see I’ll check them later, no performance doesn’t seem to be affected at all still running ok, and no the clutch doesn’t slip I’ve been before now towing (not usually) up a steep hill and no clutch slip.
Cheers

And btw it’s running a VDO MAF sensor and is reading fine on snap on box

sierrafery · Apr 28, 2020

Next time after a longer drive touch around all the wheels and the handbrake drum, if you feel hotter than normal anywhere it means it's stuck and that's the reason for higher consumption

ronsealdeath · Apr 28, 2020

+1 my rear caliper had seized on and i couldnt tell driving it

feelingaliveintheTD5 · Apr 29, 2020

sierrafery said:
Next time after a longer drive touch around all the wheels and the handbrake drum, if you feel hotter than normal anywhere it means it's stuck and that's the reason for higher consumption

You mean for binding callipers? Well calliper service is on the list of jobs but they all seem to spin freely when up in the air like can’t feel any if not much drag

sierrafery · Apr 29, 2020

A caliper can act differently on the road than in the air. I'm not saying it's that but worth a check after a longer drive.

Nig43 · Apr 29, 2020

Cast your mind back to October last year when you say you first noticed the 'problem'. Was there anything you did/altered then that could have caused it.

feelingaliveintheTD5 · Apr 29, 2020

sierrafery said:
A caliper can act differently on the road than in the air. I'm not saying it's that but worth a check after a longer drive.

Ok many thanks I definitely will try that cheers, I just thought it was strange as it literally went like a switch from 620 to 500 miles a tank.

feelingaliveintheTD5 · Apr 29, 2020

Nig43 said:
Cast your mind back to October last year when you say you first noticed the 'problem'. Was there anything you did/altered then that could have caused it.

Well I serviced it, run genuine oil filters, John Deere fully synthetic 0w-40, and Mayle fuel filters, in addition I changed the injector harness and rocker cover gasket, I’ve since changed the injector harness to a genuine LR one thinking it might be that but no, apart from that she hasn’t been adjusted or changed from memory

sierrafery · Apr 29, 2020

feelingaliveintheTD5 said:
John Deere fully synthetic 0w-40

That oil is definitely not recommended for a Td5

lynall · Apr 29, 2020

I have had a m/cyl partially seize on a series years ago, took me ages to work out what was going on amd why all my brakes were hot!

feelingaliveintheTD5 · Apr 29, 2020

sierrafery said:
That oil is definitely not recommended for a Td5

Well for one it provides better protection on start up, if you go through the oil specifications JD oil has more additives to help provide more protection on start up, furthermore, the up to temperature viscosity is correct as to LR recommendations. Also it’s still fully synthetic so still have that.
Also I find my engine runs cleaner for longer on this oil compared to normal 5w-40 Castrol magnetic or something can’t remember what they call it.
Finally it’s free so ‍

feelingaliveintheTD5 · Apr 29, 2020

lynall said:
I have had a m/cyl partially seize on a series years ago, took me ages to work out what was going on amd why all my brakes were hot![/QUOTE
Ohh right oh ok sounds interesting that will definitely follow up and go through calliper services and checks cheers

lynall · Apr 29, 2020

feelingaliveintheTD5 said:
Well for one it provides better protection on start up, if you go through the oil specifications JD oil has more additives to help provide more protection on start up, furthermore, the up to temperature viscosity is correct as to LR recommendations. Also it’s still fully synthetic so still have that.
Also I find my engine runs cleaner for longer on this oil compared to normal 5w-40 Castrol magnetic or something can’t remember what they call it.
Finally it’s free so ‍

Free always wins, think I ran my td5 on 10/40 syn, as it was free, did 50k in that machine.

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