MartinK

MartinK

New Member
Can anyone help.

Similar problem reported here http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/discovery-tail-gate-lock-72099.html

It's not the usual rear door problem with the D2.

The door locks fine from the central locking (so I assume it's not the motor/wiring/fuse).

But once the central locking has locked the door, it the won't re-open...the lock button stays down. I have to climb over and unlock using the internal door release (which works fine).

I have prized-off the LR badge and squuirted with moisture-preventing-lube (as per the "normal" repair).

All other parts of the central locking are working as normal.

There's some talk about broken return spriongs on a D1...are D2's the same?

Just wondered if anyone has had this and sorted it before I go into the cold and start taking things apart...
 
Unfortunately the only fix for this is to replace the actuator...it has 2 solenoids(motors as described in the diagram)..... i suppose the one which lifts the lock up is burned...the bloody thing is compact and u can't just change the solenoid. Before u bite the bullet and purchase a new one just check at the multiplug if it gets feed on the unlock command....if yes... that's it... put a new one.....it is probable to be a wiring/feed issue too but quite uncommon....u have the pin disposals in RAVE > elecrtical library> connector wiews....if u have probs with that i'll come back and point u the exact pin to measure....but i'm quite sure it's the actuator
 
Thanks, Sierrafery.

Does part FQR100570 look correct? It's a "Rear Dood Latch" - around £70...
 
Hi, this happened on mine and didnt get round to fixing it; then last week I thought Id try the door again and it started working all on its own; true LR magic
 
My M reg 300tdi has developed a problem with the rear door.

It will lock with the tab. When you unlock with the tab the knob shoots up but obviously not far enough because when you try to open the rear door from the outside the knob pops down and the door is locked. You have to use the key to push the knob ALL the way up and then you can open from outside with handle.

The nearside rear door doesn't unlock either with the tab ... you have to reach around and lift it up.

Col
 
What ever you do dont put of mending it and keep opening it from over the seat, I did that and eventually the lock actuator unit jammed up and wouldnt unlock, I then had to dismantle the door card etc with the door shut and then poke the unit with screw drivers etc to unlock it (really not easy)

I didnt look at the part number you posted on here but my new unit was £70 so sounds right
 
Thanks all for your advice. I thought I would post the "closure" for others wanting help.

I bought the FQR100570 lock off ebay, a brand new genuine part approx. £77 delivered.

I undid the screw from the back of the inside-door-handle surround, and prized-off the interior door panel. It's held on by the usual plastic trim fasteners, most of which broke. You don't have to remove the whole trim panel - just far enough from the outside edge of the door to access the lock (just over halfway for me). There's also a plastic seal which I cut with a stanley knife.

There are 4 fastenings onto the lock:
one for the pop-up button.
One for the outside actuator handle
one (cable operated) from the internal handle
One electrical multi-plug.

There are 3 torx screws holding the lock in place, they are the ones visible around the end of the door frame where the lock hits the hasp on the car body.

It's pretty straightforwards, undo the 4 connections, and unscrew the 3 torx screws.

Swap the lock

Put it back together!

All in all about 15 mins (but I do need to get some new trim fixings to completely complete the job). I'll also wait till the warmer weather for a final completion, and squirt some waxoyl into the door cavity.
 
Last edited:
MartinK said:
Thanks all for your advice. I thought I would post the "closure" for others wanting help.

I bought the FQR100570 lock off ebay, a brand new genuine part approx. £77 delivered.

I undid the screw from the back of the inside-door-handle surround, and prized-off the interior door panel. It's held on by the usual plastic trim fasteners, most of which broke. You don't have to remove the whole trim panel - just far enough from the outside edge of the door to access the lock (just over halfway for me). There's also a plastic seal which I cut with a stanley knife.

There are 4 fastenings onto the lock:
one for the pop-up button.


One for the outside actuator handle
one (cable operated) from the internal handle
One electrical multi-plug.

There are 3 torx screws holding the lock in place, they are the ones visible around the end of the door frame where the lock hits the hasp on the car body.

It's pretty straightforwards, undo the 4 connections, and unscrew the 3 torx screws.

Swap the lock

Put it back together!

All in all about 15 mins (but I do need to get some new trim fixings to completely complete the job). I'll also wait till the warmer weather for a final completion, and squirt some waxoyl into the door cavity.
Click to expand...


thanks thats helpful by the sound of it this is what has happened to mine so its a call to the main stealers tomorrow for me:doh:
 
MartinK said:
Thanks all for your advice. I thought I would post the "closure" for others wanting help.

I bought the FQR100570 lock off ebay, a brand new genuine part approx. £77 delivered.

I undid the screw from the back of the inside-door-handle surround, and prized-off the interior door panel. It's held on by the usual plastic trim fasteners, most of which broke. You don't have to remove the whole trim panel - just far enough from the outside edge of the door to access the lock (just over halfway for me). There's also a plastic seal which I cut with a stanley knife.

There are 4 fastenings onto the lock:
one for the pop-up button.
One for the outside actuator handle
one (cable operated) from the internal handle
One electrical multi-plug.

There are 3 torx screws holding the lock in place, they are the ones visible around the end of the door frame where the lock hits the hasp on the car body.

It's pretty straightforwards, undo the 4 connections, and unscrew the 3 torx screws.

Swap the lock

Put it back together!

All in all about 15 mins (but I do need to get some new trim fixings to completely complete the job). I'll also wait till the warmer weather for a final completion, and squirt some waxoyl into the door cavity.
Click to expand...

Anyone got any good tricks/tips for removing the tailgate door trim without busting the clips - as highlighted here????!!!?

Lol
 
few days ago I noticed that my tailgate is not locking... I removed the trim to check out the latch mechanism, nothing strange there, when I push the buttons, the motor tried to move something, but looked as it has difficulties

I cleaned everything with gasoline, sprayed with WD40, the latch started to lock, unfortunately, it still doesn't unlock the door, however, the motor is heard working, it simply doesn't push the locking mechanism.

Do you think it's due to lubrication, considering that sounds are coming on both (locking/unlocking) ways?
 
+1

Unfortunately, if the lock/latch mechanism on any of the doors of the D2 starts playing tricks; locking but not unlocking, or not locking, in almost every case it means replacment of the complete mechanism.
Some have said that it's possible to pull a mechanism apart to replace the faulty motor, but honestly, having tried and failed, I don't think that's even a serious suggestion.
 
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