I haven't really tried any yet, what with New Year and all that. I know from the sunroof leak issues that MM4x4 in Droitwich, who we often use for parts, won't touch leak related work. There are a few companies around who work on Land Rovers but before I started ringing people up I wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations, especially in relation to Discovery 2s.

Thank you to everyone for their suggestions. I would like to at least start to look at this problem myself but with nowhere undercover to park or work on the car, and with the weather the way it is at the moment it's a bit tricky.

I might look to see if I can get a cover for when it's parked up. That might at least stop the inside getting any wetter until the weather improves.
Hi Keith, yeah tarp over the roof was what I used when needed until I sorted the leaks.
I'm sure you would have checked the sunroof drains whilst you had the lining out. I've found on mine with the cold nights the condensation that's formed on/in the roof/sunroof trays dribble out leaving distinct, fresh patches of water below the 'A' pillars (behind the mud flaps if the ground is dryish).
I can understand why some places are reluctant to look at leaks on the D2, as from experience I know they can be a right pain to find (where the water leaks out is the easy bit:eek:, the entry point(s) are another matter:mad:) ! Best of luck.
 
Definitely take the scuttle off. Bonnet is easy to unbolt then slide it forwards a foot or so in the closed position. Unbolt wipers and take plastic cover off. Go mental on the sikaflex.
 
The air con/heater dries the air before use and the condensation (water) is collected in a reservoir under the unit to drain out either side of the prop shaft.
If the outlets of the drains become blocked, the reservoir overflows either side of the transmission tunnel, under the unit into the foot well where you report the wet carpet.

That was the first thing I thought of. Relatively easy to fix but you will get wet and dirty. Do this when car is cold as you need to go past the exhaust. Crawl under the car under about where the footwells are - drivers side is easiest so do that first. Where the transmission tunnel opens out to take the gearbox, look up the side of the gearbox at the sides of the tunnel. There is a rubber thing that looks a bit like a squid! The idea is that the water runs out of the tentacles but they block the dust. In practise, they form mud and block. Pull the squid like thing out, and you will probably get an armful of water! Give it a clean and refit. Repeat on the passenger side - that is more tricky as you have to reach past the exhaust. If you have an auto, the gearbox position switch is just below the outlet which is why they often fail.
One other thing to check for ingress is the top of the A-pillar - the roof seal goes at this point and can leak into the car. In my case it damaged the headlining.
 
This is the sunroof/ A Pillar drain on the sill of the D2. Often gets covered over with waxoil etc. needs cleaning out with a cable tie.
I checked these yesterday and they appear to be clear, so no wet arm and elbow - sorry. :)

I've found on mine with the cold nights the condensation that's formed on/in the roof/sunroof trays dribble out leaving distinct, fresh patches of water below the 'A' pillars (behind the mud flaps if the ground is dryish).
I have noticed that but didn't think much of it at the time. Thanks.
 
If you have an auto, the gearbox position switch is just below the outlet which is why they often fail.
Hi, as others have said just push some appropriate sized hose up those 'squid' things & extend them well past the XYZ switch.
The easiest way to check if they're blocked is if you DON'T see two patches of water underneath that area after running the air con (more obvious in high humidity conditions).
 
It's been too cold to check the air con drain holes yet but I do know that the drains were extended to avoid the XYZ switch last year at which time I was assured they were clear.
 

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