Yeah it's nice. Some people like the custom bar work but I'm not a fan really. Prefer just a standard tubular a bar style winch bumper.

Gives me something to do mate! Haha now the unimog is a little unpracticle for work. As I have a doner vehicle already for the manual swap I was going to build those axles then swap them in when there done. Save my disco being off the road. Same with the engine. I see your a purist Brian?
 
Blimey me all of those! How much will that come to? I work for you now :D

Ya say air lockers, what ya gonna do bout the traction control? And if youre fitting a CDL i reckon you might struggle to make enough worth/use of the full lockers if you leave TC in, my TC blew me away on the slippery stuff, and id never been off the tarmac :p plus you have Hill descent, ABS for immense safety and ease off road
 
It will come to a few quid but on plan on doing it over about a year. If you don't reprogram the slabs Ecu/bcu that you have central difflock you can engage difflock before you key on and it will disengage traction control. Or I think it won't be a problem as if the CDL front locker and rear locker are all locked up then in theory there is no slippage and the TC won't come in as it will think all is well.

I know these are capable been around them all my life. Having extra 2 inch under the diff also helps keep them out of harms way. Obviously everyone wants there Landy to look good too!
 
Gonna do the conversion and in the new year get the chassis dinitroled underneath. Then I want to take it laning as it is!
 
I find on road oriented tyres I can drive through mud without even triggering TC

These are very capable off road vehicles

Indeed. My TC rarely engages unless i'm on salisbury plain! - its rarely needed in "normal" situations, although I imagien it will come in useful if we get snow/ice. My almost daily drive around the campsite boundaries on wet / slippy grass is no issue at all for the disco. My previous car (Volvo XC90) regularly struggled to get moving unless i was facing downhill.

When it comes to laning, I totally get the call for increased ground clearance - many lanes have ruts that have been created by farmers tractors and are therefore too deep for a landrover. However, if you need to make many other modifications to an already very capable 4x4 to travel up a lane, perhaps you should question whether it is responsible to drive up that lane at all. If on the other hand you are heading off to a pay+play site, or playing on land with the owners permission, then by all means go for it! Don't forget to tell your insurer what your're doing - and dont be surprise if they have a bit of a fit! Some insurers (NFU, Adrian Flux) are used to landrovers and understand the modifications. Many of the mainstream insurers don't, and will often refuse to insure if you have lots of modifications.

I should add that my D2 is "standard" apart from additional lighting (work lights, floodlights and amber strobes, for site use).
 
Gonna do the conversion and in the new year get the chassis dinitroled underneath. Then I want to take it laning as it is!
I can understand the Dinitrol bit, I had mine steam cleaned back in the summer and plenty of Dinitrol applied, inside, outside the chassis and up in the wheelarches too; but that's to protect best as I can against winter salt damage.
 
Yeah I want to take it to some serious places eventually but just laning first. Start slow! Yeah I saw that Adrian flux are friendly for that sort of thing. I'm planning to accumulate some parts suspension wheels etc first and then do the mods down the line.
Definitely Brian, my chassis is solid just some surface rust, want to keep it that way!
 
Post some pics as you go and/or do a thread on it! Would like to see a black D2 like mine beefed up, with that long list you could do a great write up :)
 
Yeah I want to take it to some serious places eventually but just laning first. Start slow! Yeah I saw that Adrian flux are friendly for that sort of thing. I'm planning to accumulate some parts suspension wheels etc first and then do the mods down the line.
 
Yeah will defo do a write up as I go. Like I say will be over a year I reckon. Just trying to find a definitive answer on suspension and what will work with the 33's will need 4.11 gears in the diffs to keep engine happy and keep gearing low enough for off road.
 
Got 275/70r18 on mine so equivalent of 33" with just a 2 inch suspension lift springs and shocks, absolutely no rubbing with no body mods or wheel spacers although I did adjust the steering lock a touch. Haven't even got extended hoses or modified the prop or cross members and I have no issues even on 3 wheels. If you've got centre diff lock and your TC is working I wouldn't bother with diffs. Speedo is 10% out according to gps. Gearing is fine, mines an auto TD5 with mild remap, filter, decat, egr delete, pulls like a train and cruises at 70. Get a steering guard, tank guard and HD rear bumper as the over hang is considerable at the rear so takes a beating.
 
That's good to know! What suspension kit did you go for? What brand tyres to you run? Got any pics?
 
Hi all,

I think I have an idea what modifications I want for my discovery 2. My biggest query is the wheels/suspension set up. I'm looking to 32/33inch general grabbers/bf Goodrich or something along those lines. What sort of lift and clearance do I need?. I'm thinking 4 inch lift. I will be going over to aftermarket bumpers so won't have to worry about clearance with standard ones. I have been looking around for decent suspension kits for the discovery 2 and I can't seem to find many other than just "lift kits". Would like dislocation front and back. Mine has ACE and air suspension but I will get rid of those anyway.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Tony
Interesting thread. Not sure I can help or not, but I can share my insight and thoughts with you.

1. You seem to plan to spend massive sums of money. No probs, it's your choice. But there might be other vehicles worth spending less on, depending on your final goals.

2. Understand the limitations of what you are doing and wanting to achieve. A D2 will always be a fairly large 4x4 with long overhangs front and rear. This means they will always be a bit bulky off road in the UK and likely more prone to damage. Not a problem if you don't mind taking some damage, but worth noting if you are wanting to keep it looking tidy.

3. I'm assuming you are in the UK?

4. A question to you. What are you wanting to achieve? There simply is no ultimate 4x4 setup, as it depends what attributes you are wanting to exploit.

For example, this is a mud truck. They generally are required to wade through very deep water and mud, in large, often open area's. They don't need much in the way of steering lock, or be that stable on uneven terrain or side slopes. i.e. for rock crawling they'd likely be pretty rubbish.

I admit, they often look cool and very 'monster truck' like.

Sedate example:
Mud-Trucks-for-sale.jpg


Extreme example:
ford-super-duty-mud-truck.jpg




Now for rock crawling you want a completely different type of vehicle to a mud truck. You want something much smaller and lighter. Much lower centre of gravity and a lot less lift. What you do want is suspension travel and stability. Short overhangs are good too, where they are largely unimportant on a mud truck.

Note how much smaller less lifted they are compared to the mud trucks.



UTM%204468%20004.jpg



So why am I showing you these?

Basically to highlight the different solutions needed for different off road terrain and disciplines.

In the UK we don't tend to have either extremes of mud pits or pure rock crawling. But what we do get is a lot of muddy uneven terrain with plenty of slopes, hills and ditches. And lots of trees!

This means you probably want a vehicle somewhere in between. i.e. HIGH stability is vitality important. Suitable wading ability, but maybe not on a giant scale nor lifted to extremes.


I'm not telling what you should do, just trying to give some food for thought.... :)


5. Actual intended use. Highly related to my previous point. I see you have mentioned green laning. Now lets be brutally honest, for something like 95% of all green lanes in the UK for maybe 95% of the time, a stock Discovery on AT's is probably more than capable. You do NOT need an extreme truck for green lanes.

I'll go as far as saying, you probably shouldn't even take an extreme truck on green lanes, as it just promotes a bad image and likely causes more ground damage than anything else.


There are P&P sites, now don't get me wrong. These can be loads of fun. But there is likely a limitation to just driving aimlessly around trying to get stuck. The novelty probably will ware off, as in the end, once you've been stuck in the same place time and time again, you'll probably just get a little bored with it.

To this end, I would advise not building a 4x4 with the sole purpose of P&P sites.


There are competitions. These aren't for everyone either. But they will generally test both the vehicle and the drive a lot more than a P&P site will. If you think there is a remote chance you'll want a go at this (and there should be, as it's great fun!!!). Then consider what attributes will be needed to make it a capable competition machine.

There are many types of competition, ranging from RTV trials through to Comp Safari speed events.

6. Along these lines, it's well worth spending some effort reading up and understanding how suspension works or why certain things work. It's very easy to spend a fortune on a pile of shiny parts, but only to find out that they don't really work well together or maybe not at all.

In fact it's amazing how many modded Land Rovers, especially Discovery's there are, that actually perform worse off road than they did when stock.


7. As an example, you've mentioned dislocation cones several times. Well my question is, 'why' do you want or feel you need dislocation cones? Do you understand what they actually are offering? And more importantly do you understand the limitations they also bring?

I'm not saying don't get them. I'm saying get them for the right reasons and knowing exactly what they are offering and what they might not be offering.


8. As for lifting a Disco, there is a link in my sig you might want to click and read, rather than me re-type it all here.

However the cliffnotes are. You probably want to lift the vehicle the minimal amount you can to achieve the suspension travel and wheel fitment you want.

Body lifts and body trimming are likely 'better' solutions, if actual off road performance and ability are what you are after, rather than jacking a vehicle high up in the air. But suspension is part of a package and should be considered with other components and intended use.


However as an example of what can be done easily. This is my old Disco, it's running 33.11.50R15 Simex's, they measure almost 34" tall.

And.... it's on 100% stock suspension. Stock spring, shocks the lot.



Stock suspension is actually a very good compromise for all round general use, as it'll work well off road and on road. Now I'm not claiming this was the ultimate setup, it certainly wasn't. But it was a good setup as it still drove and handled well on the road. But also flexed fairly well off road. Because it retained all the positive attributes of the standard setup and wasn't riding a mile high in the air on a super rigid HD suspension lift.

With a traction aid like TCS or some different axle diffs, it would have been extremely capable.

9. Do remember a good suspension system should allow plenty of up travel as well as down travel. So 'lifting' to fit bigger tyres only works if the suspension is never going to be compressed, as compressed suspension completely negates the lift.

10. I did watch the vid of the blue D2 you posted (running the same Simex tread as me :D ). It does look nice and Tonka toy like. The only thing to note is, we simply don't have terrain really like that all that often in the UK. Some parts might be rocky, but our Green Lanes really aren't like the American and Australian trails they go wheeling and 4x4'ing on. Remember Green Lanes are actually roads, i.e. ON road driving, not off.

To that extent, some of the most capable 4x4's on UK terrain look like this:



Worth noting is, as a rule they are not large lifted vehicles...


11. As for the suspension on your D2. I honestly think the best thing is for you to do some research and then pick or design a setup that will actually suit your needs and goals with the vehicle. But base your selection on an 'informed' opinion, by understanding how and why the different setups work and for what sort of use. Rather than just buying what some bloke on a forum told you to get :D

My own personal view would be, a 4" lift sounds excessive and will likely mostly result in a taller vehicle that is less stable on uneven ground. And you'll also likely hit lots of issues with on road driving too. And I suspect you may struggle to retain good suspension travel and a lift of that height.

ACE is awesome. I'd try and keep it, even more so on a lifted vehicle.

Air suspension can be good, don't dismiss it straight away.

Dislocating suspension system often look good in photos and for RTI ramps, but in practice probably try to solve a problem that doesn't exist and they do create other issues all of their own. My own preference would be for a retained system with good balanced suspension travel on both the front and rear axles.
 
That's good to know! What suspension kit did you go for? What brand tyres to you run? Got any pics?

Britpart HD springs and +2" shocks, they're cheap but do the job. There's loads of brands about though e.g OME. Also removed anti roll bars for a bit more articulation.
Maxxis bighorn tyres, seem pretty good. I'd probably go for coopers next time but funds were tight at the time.
 
I would avoid BP HD Springs they make the ride unbearable and rock solid. Absolutely horrible. However I have had some excellent performance on my 90 from Terrafirma Medium Load springs & shocks which gave a brilliant ride, excellent stability - even with a roll cage fitted, not wallowy or unstable in corners. Got the same set up on my 110 but the TF Big Bore dampers which is also equally brilliant, very stable and very comfortable. Handling is very good too.
 
Britpart HD springs and +2" shocks, they're cheap but do the job. There's loads of brands about though e.g OME. Also removed anti roll bars for a bit more articulation.
Maxxis bighorn tyres, seem pretty good. I'd probably go for coopers next time but funds were tight at the time.
Not that I'm wanting to disagree with you. But slapping on +2 HD springs is usually a way to make a vehicle perform worse off road.
 

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