neilly said:

Hi Gaz,

I think you may not understand how the system works.

You say you used the UKA ( I take it you mean EKA) code to reprogram the system, it does not do this.

Have a read of this .

cheers

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neilly said:

Hi Gaz,

I think you may not understand how the system works.

You say you used the UKA ( I take it you mean EKA) code to reprogram the system, it does not do this.

Have a read of this .

cheers

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neilly said:

Hi Gaz,

Inunderstand on a single sunroof D2 it is in the same place. Which obviously makes it harder to get to.

Cheers

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neilly said:

@Gaz5535 ,

According to Rave it is still in the same place, you have to lower the roof liner. Be gentle with it.

( I am not sure why the photo in the manual shows the dashboard?? I think LR dropped a ******* when they wrote it)
View attachment 116187
Cheers

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brian47 said:

Yes, I have heard of the possibility of replacing the faulty solenoid/motor within the case with items from such places as Maplins.

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brian47 said:

@neilly
I did try and yes I got about half way into the latch but gave up due to time and my level of patience diminishing probably due to age and grumpiness setting in.
The whole case is a snap together system, so given enough hands, screwdrivers and something to hold the damned thing still, I don't see any reason why it can't be opened up.
I the end I decided to protect my fingers and what little skin I still have and sling the old one in the bin.
There are better things in life on which to waste one's time!

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brian47 said:

A couple of points which I have come up against with Disco 2 door latches.
Yes, I have heard of the possibility of replacing the faulty solenoid/motor within the case with items from such places as Maplins. To do this, of course you either have to have the parts available prior to doing the job or you're able to get to the supplier in another vehicle or you refit the old lock or you leave the car unlocked until the parts arrive. I prefer to purchase a replacement latch before doing the job.
All five latches are generally similar to replace, the main differences will occur with the rear tailgate door and the driver's door. In the case of the four main doors, the window frame will have to be removed, or at least almost removed to allow enough room to manoeuvre the latch assembly out of the door. The driver’s door has the added fiddle of having to insert the small bar between the back end of the lock barrel and the latch to allow for operation by the key. Once you have the knack of disassembly of a door, a full strip down to replace a latch should take an hour or two. The latches are specific for each door.
On the subject of new latches, be prepared to find that you have a faulty one sometimes, so don't throw the old one away until you're certain that the new one is working correctly. I fitted a new latch to the rear nearside door and found that it was faulty, it worked correctly when locking and unlocking, it worked correctly when opening it from the inside but it felt like the door needed alignment because it needed a damned good tug to open it from outside. I replaced it with another unit and all was sweetness and light again.
I haven't had problems yet with the RF receiver in the roof, but from what I do know as a radio engineer is that moisture and corrosion are the number one and two enemies of the little RF unit. Sometimes the inside of the little box can get damp, even soaking wet and that ain't good, the other problem which can occur concerns the earthing nut on the outside of the RF unit. Corrosion there can cause the working range, usually in excess of 20 feet to reduce quite significantly and that can result in "The Disco Dance"; dementedly waving your arms about and standing on one leg while touching the key on your head and pressing the unlock button at the same time. If the RF unit has got wet, then once it's been dried out it should be closely inspected because such conditions can cause irreparable damage to the electronic components. Under such circumstances, a replacement unit must be purchased, cost about £30 or so. I believe the operational frequency band is 433 Mhz.

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6024kingedward1 said:

All roads sadly leading to 2 x new complete actuators for my D2 front doors ;( = £££ despite getting monetarily excited finding replacement springs on ebay, then realising they are all for D1s. What frustrates me is that both the motors and solenoids are working as you can hear the whirr-clunk for both lock and unlock, so the existing actuators mostly work! I know, mostly is not enough! If only that last link between the unlock solenoid and the lock could be repaired, but it sounds like open-module surgery reading through this.....

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6024kingedward1 said:

Cheers for the H&S and part misplacement advice, neilly. I will see common sense eventually and just buy replacement actuators, I'm in the first-stage denial "I can do this" phase. It will pass!

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battenberg said:

Unlike the Disco 1, with the D2 you cannot just change the springs for pocket money. You need to shell out £70 odd quid a side for a whole door lock mechanisim to replace them!

I lived with the drivers door not unlocking with the fob for a year or so, but when the passenger door gave up that was the final straw!

Here's how to change them:
This write up is based on a drivers (key entry) side

Part numbers for the front doors are:
FJQ 102880 - driver
FJQ 102890 - passenger

Tools:
13mm Socket
10mm Socket
7mm Socket
T40 Torxs bit
T25 Torxs bit
Stanley Knife
Screwdrivers
Nose Pliers
Gaffer Tape

Time: 1 - 1.5 hrs

First remove the door card, by undoing the screws and prising it off gently and lifting out the window trim, then remove the wing mirror.

Then slice though the plastic with a knife to give you access to the inner door and in the top corner under the mirror to reveal a bolt head.

You will also need to open up the plastic for the retaining screw (drivers side only)

Now unclip the locking button from the green clip and remove it

Now the release cable for the internal door handle

Then undo the white plastic retainer clip from the exterior handle rod, (hold some pliers on the tab, then slide a flatblade scredriver into it and the cover will pop off.)

Now move onto the window frame.

Locate the bolts at the bottom of the window runners and remove them

Remove the T40torxs bolt on the slam side and the hindge side and the 13mm hex from under the plastic.

Lift the window frame up enough to get the wing mirror connector out from the hole.

Then lift the frame up higher (4-6") and chock it with something.

(For Drivers side replacement only)Next remove the exterior door handle by removing the single T25torxs bolt, then pushing the whole handle assembly towards the front of the car, it only needs to move a few mm then it will pop out.

now remove the three T25torx from the slam side (and the retaining screw, drivers side only)

you should now be able to drop the lock out, undo the electrical connector on the way.

Retain the white clip for the new mechanisim

Fit new lock as a reversal of these steps, take time to open and shut the door when refitting the frame to make sure you've got it aligned properly, adjustments are made at the two 10mm bolts at the bottom of the window runners. Remember to tape up your plastic before fitting the door card.

Job done, enjoy a working lock!

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