Do a search here for RAVE and download a manual for free, that's where the majority of vehicle diagrams come from on here.

It is really handy especially if loaded onto a laptop as you can have the laptop with you whilst working on the Landy.

OK Ill try that thanks
 
OK Ill try that thanks

Just thought I would mention the dealer I bought the car off was supposed to service the beast. Yeah right that's why I had to buy a chain tool to get the fuel filter off that looked like it had never been changed. Also I changed both oil filters and the air filter. I know the car has new oil because I changed It. I have also wax oyled put a new cruise con switch on. And got rust off roof before spraying it and blackened trim. The car looks and goes great. I always said If you want a job doing right do It your self. I allways suspected car dealers as a con I've been proven to be right.
 
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Just thought I would mention the dealer I bought the car off was supposed to service the beast. Yeah right that's why I had to buy a chain tool to get the fuel filter off that looked like it had never been changed. Also I changed both oil filters and the air filter. I know the car has new oil because I changed It. I have also wax oyled put a new cruise con switch on. And got rust off roof before spraying it and blackened trim. The car looks and goes great. I always said If you want a job doing right do It your self. I allways suspected car dealers as a con I've been proven to be right.

Me again I am off work with a virus could really do with that manual download. Unfortunately I am getting now where with It. can any one Help please.
 
Hi - I have the leak as in the diagram thanks to the corrosion, also didn't find out till had it regassed and it dumped it all. I have the new pipe, I have the car stripped back a bit ie grill off but does anyone have any tips on how to remove the P clips behind and to the side of the air filter - thinking of having to remove the air filter unit purely for access?
 
Yeah, take out the air box by removing the lid. It just pulls upwards. Be farefull of the small plastic coolant pipes.
Undo the P clips and then the bolts that connect the pipes together and onto the receiver drier. Support the connector block with a 16mm spanner so you dont mangle it.
The pipe then has be turned and threaded back into the engine bay and removed.

Actually, I've got some pictures, I'll just fire my pc up.
 
Spanner for support,



Pipe undone from drier,


pipe position whilst threading back,



to get the connector block through the slam panel you HAVE to lay it sideways and be firm to push it through,



I replaced mine with an OEM pipe, and try as I may, I could not get it back through the hole, so I opened it out a bit with a file, as I didnt want to damage my new pipe,



IF you are using an OEM pipe then I dont think the seals in it looked that great,



so for the sake of a few quid, I put genuine ones in,



I also put a new drier reciever on as it was onlt £12.00,



Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for your help, much appreciated. Can not for the love of god get the new pipe in place. No matter how I try there just isn't the room versus the right angles on the pipe - at wits end now.
 
Thanks for your help, much appreciated. Can not for the love of god get the new pipe in place. No matter how I try there just isn't the room versus the right angles on the pipe - at wits end now.

It will go !!.


In my 4th picture down you see how to orient the pipe. If you see in the picture where the ally pipe joins the rubber one, you need to push at that point hard against the slam panel.

Have you tried filing the hole out a little ?.
 
This blasted car will see me doing a Basil Fawlty and beating it senseless. Aircon got regassed, now it gurgles when I turn off the engine plus cooler on passenger side than the drivers side. It is however cooler than having the windows open so all has not been a total waste of time - no idea what's going on now though!
 

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