Hi Simon, am I being a bit thick here, but on my car it looks like there are free plugs already in place behind the headlights and they LOOK as if they're there to accomodate spotlights that go on with main beam.
If they are, why do I need anything other than the spots themselves and some of the same sort of plugs to make the connection?
Not sure what those plugs are for I will try and find out, but I don't think they are for spots. Could be for self leveling motors???
And that thing simon72 put in was spot on (ba dum dum), but instead of these plug things your on about, you splice into the main beam wire on the plugs (see haynes manual). believe me we've done it alot!
I stuck all my wiring at the back of the headlamp beside the battery, it makes it easy to get the live and earth, stuck the relay there with fuses both in the live feed from the battery and the live from the main beam headlamps just in case. Use the proper graded cable for the spots, not poofy stuff that will melt and see if you can get some heat shrink for the conections to keep the water out. Aldi's were doing a box of them.
I just stuck the fuses into spades but it's best to invest in a small fuse box from an assessory shop, or a couple of water proof tube type. Remember to stick in a heavy duty relay. On the relay side fit a smaller fuse from the headlamp feed, "the one that energises the relay" that way if the spots go bottoms up only they blow and not all your headlamps as well.
The spots come with fitting instructions and if you fit them as to come on with headlamps then they should be fitted as per the instructions, i.e the required distance from the outer edge of the vehicle and height from ground. If you don't care then just bang them on any place, I see many like this.
Best to pull the fuse out during M.O.T it saves ****ing about with alignment, therefore they are not tested. I set mine to light up the world, and they are never going to pass the test so I pull the fuse out.
Yeh i agree with simon again, plus it depends where you put it all, all my wiring is above the drivers side front wing, i used 'RING's kit that comes with fuse holders from between the battery and relay and all wire and stuff, with FULL instructions lol. Trust me done this ALOT. Oh and all connectors are covered in lots of insulation tape, most of it needs to be re done, so when it does i'll probably silicone seal most of it.
Simon look at your t'other thread
David451 Re: That's a good drawing, are you able to do one for the low water circuit when you fit a RR water cap with the low water sensor.
The RR cap low coolent sensor is a normallly closed low current switch as it signals to an ECU. It's easy to wire a bulb/led fitted in the dash through it, but the bulb/led would be permanently illuminated unless the level dropped then it would go out.
There's someone on the internet (a LR site) that will sell a box of tricks that will convert the switch from the on state to an off state and therefore switch the lamp on when the level is low which is a better idea. Also a buzzer can then be connected in parallel with the lamp so to give an audio alarm as well.
Shame LR didn't fit the cap to disco's also.
Regards