Im having a problem and I wonder what you guys think.

I was driving my Disco, a 2000 TD5 GS, the other night and could smell something hot and/or burning. I pulled over and my rear drivers brake was smoking. Clearly the pads were holding the disc and with a few cracks of a hammer freed it up to allow a slow, as possible, drive home. Its now doing it most, not all, of the time still.

Anyway, I read up on here about brake problems and because we had a nice weekend, I managed to get the wheel off, brake stripped and cleaned, fully reassembled with all the right copper ease here and thread lock there etc. Once the caliper needed retracting, I did it with a pair of pump pliers and it retracted easily(ish). After it was all rebuilt, the caliper was sliding on the pins easily, you could depress the brake and it would release and allow me to hand turn the disc. Seemed ok. So, for good luck and a fresh brew from the mrs, I did the other side too.

Took a drive down to the shop and when I pulled over, it was clearly very hot and smelly. Came home slowly, but still very up and down hill, and it was fine. Went out again today, clearly did it there and back. Sometimes you can ease off the throttle and you feel the drag - other times you cant feel it.

For the record, pads a few miles old, OE spec. Disco has been stood for a few weeks, but all components looked decent, as in not worn or damaged. About to have a full service when time allows, so I will probably do brake fluid as a precaution anyway.

Damn thing. Any ideas?

If its not seized brake caliper pistons, then the next best bet is a faulty master cylinder..

M6SJG said:

If its not seized brake caliper pistons, then the next best bet is a faulty master cylinder..

Click to expand...

Hmmm, was hoping I could avoid cylinder issues. Ok, is there anyway of testing the master cylinder? I mean, a test to ensure its the cylinder at fault rather than something else?

I was just reading about the brake lines collapsing inside too, anyone know the best way to test this? Or the do my symptoms even point to that?

It still seems like there might still be a couple of things at fault, I just want to replace the right one as I cant afford to just replace everything like usual.

Ok, now its just sticking all the time. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Im not going to get time to strip the brakes today, maybe early evening. Then I can get a better idea of why its sticking now. I took a little drive to the post office yesterday and when we arrived there (1 - 2 miles), the brake was clearly hot as you could feel it with your hand a foot away from the wheel (plus the smell). I turned round to drive home and it was clearly holding on tight cos I had to accelerate downhill as the drag from the brake was significant now.

Any ideas of 'tests' to do to figure out what is actually failing would be grand. Ive read on here if the brake fluid comes out under pressure after the brake pedal has been released, then the hose has collapsed and thats at fault. If I dont get that, what else could I do.

Thanks in advance for any tips/advice.

when its sticking you could slacken bleed screw on that brake to see if fluid still under pressure if it releases then you know pipe or master not letting fluid return, or slides ,piston sticking

jamesmartin said:

when its sticking you could slacken bleed screw on that brake to see if fluid still under pressure if it releases then you know pipe or master not letting fluid return, or slides ,piston sticking

Click to expand...

Ah, so if its under pressure it can be faulty hose or master cylinder? Thanks.

I have also come across this: Seal Kit - Caliper Rear - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

Would it be worth servicing the pistons with this kit while I have everything stripped? How easy is it to get caliper out/fit new seals etc? Is there any fluid loss when taking piston out to service?

My seals all seem ok, no splits or cracks. How easily should a piston retract when its in 'good' condition?

Sorry for all the questions, your help/advice is greatly appreciated.

as you did it originally usually shows its free there would be fluid loss ,fit seals carefully and lubricate with brake fluid before fitting piston slowly