LOGS_IN_BOGS · Aug 19, 2021

Stanleysteamer said:
You could also look for a jap import. My son lived in Japan for years and explained at length why jap cars are so often good to import. Rust is much less of an issue and if they fail the strict MOT over there getting them to pass can be a real pain. so they often don't bother. Just flog em.
they did make a Disco under licence whose name escapes me. Oh yeah "Honda Crossroad"
If you get a D2 budget for a diagnostic tool, a Foxwell, or a Nanocom, or a Hawkeye. The last is the best but is expensive, the Nanocom has annoying issues re wheel sensors and the Foxwell is cheap and cheerful, mine has done so far what I want.

Intresting, what's the total cost difference from buying a d1 or D2 over here?

Stanleysteamer · Aug 19, 2021

LOGS_IN_BOGS said:
Intresting, what's the total cost difference from buying a d1 or D2 over here?

Your guess is as good as mine.
all you can do is search the internet for prices and as I said factor in the cost of the diagnostic if buying a D2.
Jap imports are probably rare, but I'd buy one like a shot, and incur Wifey's wrath, if I could find one. (I'd then have to sell all the others.

)

MJI · Aug 19, 2021

LOGS_IN_BOGS said:
Intresting, what's the total cost difference from buying a d1 or D2 over here?

depends entirely on condition.

Galvanised D2 a LOT, an immaculate D1 now getting rare and increasing value, so a lot.

stevemilne750 · Aug 31, 2021

Watch out for rust on d2 body i noticed someone said the d2,s bodys dont rust but they do there getting on a bit now.

Front inner wings
Front footwells
And sills all prone to rot aswell as the rear chassis.

DiscoGO · Aug 31, 2021

stevemilne750 said:
Watch out for rust on d2 body i noticed someone said the d2,s bodys dont rust but they do there getting on a bit now.

Front inner wings
Front footwells
And sills all prone to rot aswell as the rear chassis.

Sorry for hijacking the thread.... new D2 owner here 2003. Is there anything advisable to keep this rust in check, if it isn't noticeable through the paint so far?

ronsealdeath · Sep 1, 2021

D1 is easier to maintain and they all have central diff lock. No ECU to drown and so on. But finding a good one is not easy.
To keep D2 body rust at bay make sure there is none, and treat with dynax s50 or similar. If rust is there i use wire brushes, fertan then dynax. Treat the sills.

LOGS_IN_BOGS · Sep 5, 2021

ronsealdeath said:
D1 is easier to maintain and they all have central diff lock. No ECU to drown and so on. But finding a good one is not easy.
To keep D2 body rust at bay make sure there is none, and treat with dynax s50 or similar. If rust is there i use wire brushes, fertan then dynax. Treat the sills.

On a slightly different note, is it easy to lift the body from the chassis on the d1?

lynall · Sep 5, 2021

tdi for reliability, anything but 200/300/td5 for rust!

guzzi lemans · Sep 10, 2021

Hi, I have a Japanese reimport v8 auto I'm considering parting with. No corrosion as just had off side wing treated and repainted and chassis is treated with dinitrol cavity wax annually, log (stag) system and a turner top hat engine with new ss exhaust incl cats. I've retired recently and have no need for it now.

Cheers

am

LOGS_IN_BOGS

Well-Known Member

Stanleysteamer

Well-Known Member

MJI

Well-Known Member

stevemilne750

Member

DiscoGO

New Member

ronsealdeath

Sagging Member

LOGS_IN_BOGS

Well-Known Member

lynall

Well-Known Member

guzzi lemans

Member

Similar threads