Irishrover

Irishrover

Well-Known Member
Hi folks... Changing the front l.h. hub & bearing and notice that the rubber gaiter on the inner driveshaft C.V. joint is split. There is no signs of grease being flung out however I am wary of fitting a new gaiter, only to find that the joint is shot after I put everything back.
Can anyone tell me whether the complete drive shaft can be withdrawn through the hole where the hub fits into, or whether I have to disconnect the upper swivel ball joint and track rod end and tip the swivel.
 
Only use genuine gaiters, but if its been split for any lebgth of time dirt will have got in so a new shaft might be a better bet.
 
Irishrover said:
Can anyone tell me whether the complete drive shaft can be withdrawn through the hole where the hub fits into, or whether I have to disconnect the upper swivel ball joint and track rod end and tip the swivel.
Click to expand...

No. You need to get some free play in the front upright, so the stub axle can be pushed out the rear. Once free from the hub, you can pop the inner joint from the front diff, and the shaft withdrawn from the diff.
The hub swings out like this. It gives just enough clearance to get the shaft out.
20150903_113219.jpg
 
Had a measure up and the ABS reluctor ring on the outer CV joint will not pass through the bore on the swivel where the hub/bearing assembly locates, so got my big trusty copper hammer out and released the top swivel and track rod ball joints and swung the swivel out of the way. With the hub not being fitted there was enough room (Just about) to swing the drive shaft clear ready for removal. I have ordered a complete shaft and a couple of track rod ends as the l.h. one feels slightly sloppy so I have decided to change both sides whilst I am at it.
The drive shaft has been left in situ until the new one arrives.
Obviously the front l.h. side has been jacked up and on an axle stand..the car is lopsided with the l.h. side higher than the right...when I come to remove the shaft from the transfer box I intend to swap them over quickly. At a guess how much oil am I likely to lose from the box ?? What type of oil is used in the box-it doesn't have ETM.

Cheers for the replies guys
 
Irishrover said:
Had a measure up and the ABS reluctor ring on the outer CV joint will not pass through the bore on the swivel where the hub/bearing assembly locates, so got my big trusty copper hammer out and released the top swivel and track rod ball joints and swung the swivel out of the way. With the hub not being fitted there was enough room (Just about) to swing the drive shaft clear ready for removal. I have ordered a complete shaft and a couple of track rod ends as the l.h. one feels slightly sloppy so I have decided to change both sides whilst I am at it.
The drive shaft has been left in situ until the new one arrives.
Obviously the front l.h. side has been jacked up and on an axle stand..the car is lopsided with the l.h. side higher than the right...when I come to remove the shaft from the transfer box I intend to swap them over quickly. At a guess how much oil am I likely to lose from the box ?? What type of oil is used in the box-it doesn't have ETM.

Cheers for the replies guys
Click to expand...


You wont lose any oil at all.

You need a decent heel bar to get the drivehsfat snap ring to come free out of the diff, thats the best thing about fitting a new shaft you can bend the hell out of the old shaft mud shield.

Google for hub nut torque figure as its been lowered from the original figure, but I cant rememebr to what!
 
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