discool
Well-Known Member
Iffy fuel injector or camshaft or a slipping cylinder liner, all will be of concern
loads of video’s on utube showing a similar sound.Just to add that a ticking injector is easy to find, camshaft maybe silent on a cold start-up but starts ticking seconds later, never had a slipped liner issue, it’s not a problem unless your engine has seriously over heated, it’s a course and effect of a badly maintained cooling system.
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Not sure about overheats. The truck runs <200F all the time. I don’t think it’s a slipped liner though, I’ve heard that and it’s quite a bit louder and more of a consistent tapping noise. Also, if I recall, the slipped liner usually occurs cold, but this sound is most apparent hot.
I’ll run a fuel system cleaner through the tank and I’ll do an induction cleaning and see if that quiets it down.
I’ll run a fuel system cleaner through the tank and I’ll do an induction cleaning and see if that quiets it down.
Tappet, or "lifter" or whatever you call them in Merka?
It was already dead. When it got over 80c, it started dumping exhaust gases into the coolant which i could only put down to block or liner problems. I'd had the heads off and didn't see liner movement though, equally no obvious steam cleaning.
Ran it for a while with a duff thermostat which kept it below 70c.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Is the noise there when the engine is cold?
could be as simple as a stuck NRV in one or more of the tappets, you have to remember that tappets can be very loud if there are more than 1 at fault..
Liners are more of a "clack clack" noise and is only audible when hot...
Also slipped liners WILL cause the cooling system to over pressurise and she will drop her guts often
could be as simple as a stuck NRV in one or more of the tappets, you have to remember that tappets can be very loud if there are more than 1 at fault..
Liners are more of a "clack clack" noise and is only audible when hot...
Also slipped liners WILL cause the cooling system to over pressurise and she will drop her guts often
Bantam1
Well-Known Member
Yes I'd agree
Megamagelol1
Member
Hmmm I would say lifter but id Be putting my money on camshaft wear.
Specially if she’s in 170k and hasn’t been run on 20w/50 with a high ZDDP content. Maybe time for a rebuild
I have heard camshafts go on these for a pastime.
Megamagelol1
Member
After 150k and there still on original camshaft and haven’t been run with 20w50 with a high ZDDP level, you can expect to be replacing them.
They start to discolour, pit and get flat spots
Megamagelol1
Member
There is absolutely nothing like regular oil changes at about twice the recommended frequency.
That said, if it is a lifter, there are products supposedly to be stuck in with the oil that can clear a blocked lifter. I'd rather find the bug ger and clear it myself.
That said, if it is a lifter, there are products supposedly to be stuck in with the oil that can clear a blocked lifter. I'd rather find the bug ger and clear it myself.
Megamagelol1
Member
Yes your correct some oil additives clean the oil holes in the tappets, however a high ZDDP level in the oil creates a coating when under pressure and heat around the lobes of the cam and the bottom of the lifter, this is on these type of engines the main point of wear.
discool
Well-Known Member
Well my 3.5 RR which was serviced twice a year by the main dealer I purchased it from, so when at 1100k miles and 10 years it had the cam plus associated parts replaced, £1200 back then
but it was a selling point when it was sold a year later. And I though it would last fo ever as it was my most expensive vehicle at the time in 1997
1100k miles?! To the moon and back twice?! Pljus?! On one cam?! Jesus! should be in the Guinness book of records!.If it did all those miles it proves the theory about doubling up on oil changes though!Well my 3.5 RR which was serviced twice a year by the main dealer I purchased it from, so when at 1100k miles and 10 years it had the cam plus associated parts replaced, £1200 back then
And I though it would last fo ever as it was my most expensive vehicle at the time in 1997
discool
Well-Known Member
Typo! 10110 miles + or -
It was used 24/7 by the family in alL weathers , the only other replacement was the battery.
So you had to change the cam after only just over 10 thousand miles? That really sucks! Wasn't it still under warranty?Typo! 10110 miles + or -
Feel for you on that mate!
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Mine is on 126k i pulled the Valley gasket at 120 and the cam was still in good nick..
It is all about maintenance, and the correct oil 20w50 with ZDDP or a Race spec fully synthetic, i run 10w60 in mine..
purrs like a kitten..
Those additives will do little good as the sludge and crap sits in the tappet and the only way to clear them is to disassemble, and by that point you might aswell overhaul the top end..
It is all about maintenance, and the correct oil 20w50 with ZDDP or a Race spec fully synthetic, i run 10w60 in mine..
purrs like a kitten..
Those additives will do little good as the sludge and crap sits in the tappet and the only way to clear them is to disassemble, and by that point you might aswell overhaul the top end..
