OK so the engines back together and the engine is running sweet but for one problem, neat oil is dripping out of the exhaust whilst on tick over. I assumed at first this was the residual (from my cylinder lubrication before assembly) from the engine pumping to get oil pressure before firing up. I fired up without the down pipe on so the oil was clearly visible after running for 5 minute with the odd drip hitting the floor.

So I have solved two of the three initial problems as the engine now fires on the button when cold, and the partially burnt diesel smell has gone (low compression due to bent conrods). I assumed the blue smoke was due to the glazed bores which I de-glazed. The piston rings were replaced (on the two replacement pistons and conrods).

I am now assuming that the blue smoke is caused as the oil is burning in the exhaust system as I accelerate, this happens when the engine is at idle and you pull away (plume of blue smoke even after 30 seconds idling). The engine is clean when driving (no blue smoke) but burning oil smell is evident when getting out the car.

The question is has anyone else experienced this problem before as I can only assume that the issue is after the combustion chamber either valve guides or turbo seal (turbine side), however I cannot find any issues online identifying problems with the TD5 valve stem or guides?

Just again for clarification the engine does not produce any smoke under normal driving only when left to idle and when you pull away under acceleration, cylinder balance is perfect. The crankcase venting out the cap is clean as a whistle (no pumping of fumes) with no apparent positive pressure.

Thoughts please...

PS... I have reloaded the standard fuel map to ensure no remap is present.

have had oil dripping from the exaust on two separate vehicles this week and both have been a failed turbo , one of which was the blue hybrid series 3 at the LZ bash

yellow90 said:

have had oil dripping from the exaust on two separate vehicles this week and both have been a failed turbo , one of which was the blue hybrid series 3 at the LZ bash

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Thanks yellow 90 for the response.. so was this a total turbo failure or blue smoke when accelerating after idle which is the symptoms I have... also always a smell of burning oil.

If you look back to my original post you will see that I mentioned all the exhaust guides were worn out on my engine when I stripped it,but none of the inlets.As I said the head was not the original and I have no idea of its history.
My cyl head was fixed with interrupted spiral inserts.
Thinking back over all the TD5 servicing I've done I don't recall them as being oil burners like say FL2 diesels seem to be,I think its more down to individual odd units with problems...

Just went through the thread and couldn't stop wondering if I got bent rods too...

Got the rig new in 2001 and has been meticulous with the maintenance. Recently did the injector harness because I had oil in the ecu and it was taking longer too start with white smoke on cold and lots of black smoke when pulling, while I was at it, I decided to do the O rings and the injector seals although it had no symptoms of them failing but after reading so much I decided to replace them anyways.

While I was re installing the injectors it did cross my mind to blow the diesel from the combustion chamber by cranking but then I thought that its not a lot of diesel that went in there when I removed the injectors plus there was three days gap between removal and re assembly so no need and I installed them. So did I bent a rod or two?

It doesn't smoke any more on start up and black smoke while pulling has significantly reduced but still smokes more than it used to and more than I like it to be so what can be wrong?

EGR blanked off ages ago, all sensors cleaned, inlet and IC cleaned, service done, glow plugs renewed, never replaced fpr and fuel pump.

The cold start is also longer than standard could it be that the filters in the fuel pump assembly are clogged and need to be cleaned since it now has 120K kms on it and half of it is in Pakistan, we have high sulphur diesel which has poor quality in general. Also would replacing the non return valve and the other valve in the filter assembly help?

I want it to start start like a champ and not smoke?!!

Bump.....

The way to find out is to do a compression test,the rods do seem to bend quite easily if abused. A current clamp and oscilloscope are by far the best and least intrusive way to do the test - I have done loads,mostly for other garages,which has saved me,(And sometimes them) loads of money.Often the garages have fitted new injectors to correct cylinder balancing with no improvement in the original fault.If the engine does not have 5 fairly equal compression values it doesn't matter how hard the ecu tries to compensate - there will be a noticeable fault of some kind...

I recently used my NanoCom to turn on the heated windscreen. Since adding this I have have had really smoky TD5 Disco 2.

I think while tinkering I may have inadvertently change another setting or settings accidentally.

Any advice as to what settings to check would be appreciated. It has EGR Blanked since I purchased but as far as I am aware everything else is standard.

Looking at the PDF above I think I may have change the injector codes. Arrgh, I remember scrolling through and saving settings.

Ctrl_alt_del said:

I recently used my NanoCom to turn on the heated windscreen. Since adding this I have have had really smoky TD5 Disco 2.

I think while tinkering I may have inadvertently change another setting or settings accidentally.

Any advice as to what settings to check would be appreciated. It has EGR Blanked since I purchased but as far as I am aware everything else is standard.

Looking at the PDF above I think I may have change the injector codes. Arrgh, I remember scrolling through and saving settings.

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You can't change anything with nanocom other than the fuel map on Eu3s to make it smoke, it's a coincidence IMO... and quit digging up 10 year old threads for your problem, start your own thread with the specific problem you have for proper help

sierrafery said:

You can't change anything with nanocom other than the fuel map on Eu3s to make it smoke, it's a coincidence IMO... and quit digging up 10 year old threads for your problem, start your own thread with the specific problem you have for proper help

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Apologies for digging up.

I found the problem I had in facet deleted the injector codes.

Today took head off and re entered them all and good again.

Ctrl_alt_del said:

I found the problem I had in facet deleted the injector codes.

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Enlighten me please how did you manage to delete those codes just like that ? , i've never heard such thing

sierrafery said:

Enlighten me please how did you manage to delete those codes just like that ? , i've never heard such thing

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In the settings I scrolled through and saved complete accident.

There is an injectors and throttle menu.

I must have written to ECU thinking I was saving other setting I changed.

when I checked back today they were all 5 blank

That's confusing cos when you just scroll through that injector coding menu without erasing the codes one by one on purpose for each injector it should save the old settings... very strange but i'll try once cos seems very odd

sierrafery said:

That's confusing cos when you just scroll through that injector coding menu without erasing the codes one by one on purpose for each injector it should save the old settings... very strange but i'll try once cos seems very odd

Click to expand...

I have no idea my nanocom had some other codes there also which was confusing.

I took cover off and re did all good now.

I’m not that experienced with it so I probably did something weird