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golderichard

Member
Just completed the full annual Dinitrol treatment and noticed a hole to the u/s of the chassis (mid-section) behind the rear trailing arm drivers side. I have been doing this for the last five years to slow the rust down. Had a poke about, made it bigger and temporarily welded lets say a concealing plate (approx 2" x 3") and covered it in black stuff for the time being. I notice the vertical face above this point to be thinner also but the rest of the chassis and inner wings are good. Cost of a new fitted Chassis in Sheffield these days is £5580 and I am in Inverness.

Q Any tips for keeping this going for a couple years till I raise cash?... mot considerations etc.

Q. Can you weld for MOT's if its done by a professional?

Q. Anyone in Scotland does this sort of thing?

Would like to keep it going but the rust is wining at the moment- any advice appreciated.
 
golderichard said:
Just completed the full annual Dinitrol treatment and noticed a hole to the u/s of the chassis (mid-section) behind the rear trailing arm drivers side. I have been doing this for the last five years to slow the rust down. Had a poke about, made it bigger and temporarily welded lets say a concealing plate (approx 2" x 3") and covered it in black stuff for the time being. I notice the vertical face above this point to be thinner also but the rest of the chassis and inner wings are good. Cost of a new fitted Chassis in Sheffield these days is £5580 and I am in Inverness.

Q Any tips for keeping this going for a couple years till I raise cash?... mot considerations etc.

Q. Can you weld for MOT's if its done by a professional?

Q. Anyone in Scotland does this sort of thing?

Would like to keep it going but the rust is wining at the moment- any advice appreciated.
Click to expand...
anyone can do the welding as long as a patch is welded fully all round, the chassis is rotting from the inside
 
Thanks for this, but unfortunately my repair is forward of this. Mid section adjacent the front trailing arm connection/bush.
Tempted to have this cut out and welded professionally but concerned about mot reaction.
 
golderichard said:
Thanks for this, but unfortunately my repair is forward of this. Mid section adjacent the front trailing arm connection/bush.
Tempted to have this cut out and welded professionally but concerned about mot reaction.
Click to expand...
there is no problem having welded repairs ,its extremely common
 
thanks! thats a relief- my local specialist 4x4 centre dosn't like welding and suggested a new chassis - think maybe he has been sullied with LR's !:)

Will take to another garage.
 
Well he cant be much of a 4x4 specialist if he doesnt like welding?

Surprised to hear a 2004 model with holed chassis!

Tip for the inside of the chassis is any old chassis wax with 25 percent engine oil mixed in, this will creep and keep creeping into all the bits that the other gear just covers.

My 59 land rover chassis has more than its fair share of patches.
 
Another garage, definitely. The idea that a car should be re-chassised instead of welded is ridiculous. Unless, of course, the existing chassis is so bad that it's beyond economic repair - but that's your call, not his. So far, my 300tdi has has new (box section) sills, a new rear crossmember, two new arches and a new boot floor. I welded the lot in myself (in stages, for several MOTs) and the MOT man was actually complimentary about the standard of the welding. He didn't ask why I'd throw so much time at a vehicle worth so little, but perhaps should have...
 
Salt on roads in Inverness I suppose!

How do you spray your mix??

I am getting to the stage where the next time I am on a 45 deg incline I will pour in some oil to the end of each of the chassis rails and forget about it!:)
Incidentally, i could jet out first with drain attachment:cool:
Future welding and oil maybe an issue tho.:cool:
Needs some more thought:)
 
thetim said:
Another garage, definitely. The idea that a car should be re-chassised instead of welded is ridiculous. Unless, of course, the existing chassis is so bad that it's beyond economic repair - but that's your call, not his. So far, my 300tdi has has new (box section) sills, a new rear crossmember, two new arches and a new boot floor. I welded the lot in myself (in stages, for several MOTs) and the MOT man was actually complimentary about the standard of the welding. He didn't ask why I'd throw so much time at a vehicle worth so little, but perhaps should have...
Click to expand...

I may have caught him on a bad day as he didn't even look at it- glad to hear you are as committed as I am!:)
 
When I had my previous LR's, I was always a bit wary of pumping oil and wax into the chassis, because it seemed odd to put flammable stuff where welding was likely to be needed. Does this not matter?

Also, I was a bit depressed to see that the OP's rusting happened in spite of "full annual Dinitrol treatment". I always hoped that Dinitrol was more effective than, say, Waxoyl. I have a 1964 A40 in the garage that, last time I looked, was very sound, having been Dinitrol'd from new.
 
I suggest you phone Colin at Gibsons Auto Services in Cumnock.
They repaired my chassis with a hole in rear section. They could also possibly supply and fit a quarter chassis.
I have seen a D2 in their premises with a galvy chassis they fitted.
Wee bit to travel but lot closer than going south.
 
Billaboard said:
When I had my previous LR's, I was always a bit wary of pumping oil and wax into the chassis, because it seemed odd to put flammable stuff where welding was likely to be needed. Does this not matter?

Also, I was a bit depressed to see that the OP's rusting happened in spite of "full annual Dinitrol treatment". I always hoped that Dinitrol was more effective than, say, Waxoyl. I have a 1964 A40 in the garage that, last time I looked, was very sound, having been Dinitrol'd from new.
Click to expand...
protecting one side of a sheet of metal isnt going to last however good the coating
 
Disco 2s suffer from severe chassis rot at the back due to internal double skinned sections. There isn't a cavity protection that will get in and protect it all.

Rear quarter chassis are easy to fit if you can weld to a reasonable standard. Our D2 2004 has just started to bulge near the towbar mounts, and I suspect by the next mot it will need attention.

What seems to be available repair wise at the moment is a short or long rear quarter, left and right quarter rails and a set of pre cut patch plates.

Over plating rot is a false economy, ok if you just want to get it through an MOT, but it will continue to rot and be as bad again in a year or two
 
Lol at "just get a new chassis"
I'd be taking my custom elsewhere after slaver like that.I tell you what why bother? Just get a new car lol
Anyway,plates are fine.any decent garage will do this for you if you're not able to carry out the job yourself.Iv done it on my back to mine,it saves a lot of money.
 
Thanks guys! - i shall look around for a good welder and start a rust fund! - new chassis work nearer Inverness anybody??... Cumnock a good shout Jim.
 
golderichard said:
Salt on roads in Inverness I suppose!

How do you spray your mix??
Click to expand...



Look for the sealey wax gun on ebay, obviously needs a compressor, but saves you shed loads over the years and compressors have so many other uses.
I replaced my rear x-memebr after bodging it for a few mots in a row and welded the new extensions to the existing heavily waxed chassis with no issues.
Engine oil on its own isnt much cop but mixed with any chassis wax is good gear.
Only use the oil mix inside the chassis otherwise you will get unbelievably dirty when working on the car!
 
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