Taken out my headliner to recover, sorting various electrics and I hope the leaks!
It has 2 sunroofs, one drain is snapped off which explains most of the water at the front, but the rear gets wet too and drains are ok. I will clear them out.
The frames of sunroofs from outside look like they have gaps against roof panel, I could simply mask carefully and run a bead of PU sealer around them, OR does anybody know if I slacken all the ficinx bolts inside a bit can I lift the frame complete a little to squeeze sealer under it before tightening down?
I will do the roof rails too....bed omn sealer
Thanks

Pu wont seal properly. Take each sunroof out clean old c#&p off and re seal with sikaflex and use the correct primer too. Its what manufacturers use to stick windows in with. We use it on super yachts to stick windows in and they're ocean going and dont leak.
It false economy to bodge it especially if you have headlining out.
Imagine how gutted you'd be if you did a quick fix, did headlining and then it leaked again.
I sikaflex'd mine when I did headlining and it never let water in again.
Make sure you put a layer of silicon grease on glass rubber seal too.

swatts70 said:

Pu wont seal properly. Take each sunroof out clean old c#&p off and re seal with sikaflex and use the correct primer too. Its what manufacturers use to stick windows in with. We use it on super yachts to stick windows in and they're ocean going and dont leak.
It false economy to bodge it especially if you have headlining out.
Imagine how gutted you'd be if you did a quick fix, did headlining and then it leaked again.
I sikaflex'd mine when I did headlining and it never let water in again.
Make sure you put a layer of silicon grease on glass rubber seal too.

Click to expand...

Thank you, I use Sikaflex on boats too, yes good stuff! Do the sunroofs lift out ok or are they so and so's?

Russell Marlow said:

Thank you, I use Sikaflex on boats too, yes good stuff! Do the sunroofs lift out ok or are they so and so's?

Click to expand...

I never use my discos sunroofs so fortunately never had issues, didnt wont them but had to have them.
But I was asked by a mate to sort out his D1 sunroofs, the rear wouldn’t close down fully because one of the nylon track sliders had broken and leaked.
So the rear had to be removed so thats 14 rusty screws to undo and then it pushed up and out, undoing the 4 screws and removing the glass makes it lighter.
I replaced the broken the nylon bits and refitted the frame with a thin bead of Silkaflex not much just 6 or 7mm then refitting screws diagonally to puld the frame down equally… the class seal was ok, fit the glass… job done but took some time, just to replace the sliders as I had to strip and rebuild the sunroof.

The front sunroof was leaking vis the frame to body seal so as we both had other things to do we masked around the frame leaving a 3mm
gap to the frame and again used Silkaflex to form a seal, when
smoothed down it look very neat and hardly seen as most of the sealer was under the frame, it stopped the leak … job done took 30 minutes.

Drains have no use if the frame seal is iffy, and as they are at the front of the sunroof there no use if the vehicle is facing up hill.
The drains are at the front to take any water laying on the sunroof it is opened with a tilt water then is directed into the side channel into the drain entry.
If u have an iffy glass seal there’s no guarantee that water will reach the drains being at the front.

yes totaly agree take it out fully clean it all and reseal, when I did mine, if you check the corners on the inside there are gaps , I seal them as well as a full seal on the inside, to hel prevent any over spill