chu017

Active Member
As suggested by someone in my introducing thread hear is a thread where I will keep my Discovery 2 Long Ranger build notes.

I have a Discovery 2 V8 (white)
From what I know it was built for the Police but for some reason never taken by them.
it is a basic model no electric seats, no air suspension, no sunroofs.

its seats have been replaced at some point by a previous owner along with a new head lining.
LPG was added but didn't work properly when I brought it.

Its destiny is to be something like the attached blue pic. The rest of the Pics are before work started.

I have new suspension and some other bits to fit too.
 

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Hear are some photos of the interior coming out and some parts coming off the outside
the plan is to get the back end removed over the weekend of 9th September.
get the cabin watertight again then inspect the chassis and repair and shorten it as needed. we are going to cut it off just behind the back wheels to maximise exit angle.
 

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It was running and now having carefully moved all the wiring looms forward to the B pillars the Alarm/ Immobiliser is stuck on. I have put new battery's in both keys, the vehicle battery is fine, I do not have the EAK code.
Sometimes when I unlock it with the key from the drivers door the alarm goes off when I open the door but sometimes alarm isn't until I put the key in the ignition.
doing the 1st step of entering an EAK code where you gold the turn of the key for 5 seconds and should get a beep docent happen so even if i can get the EAK from LR I am not sure it will help.
can anyone offer any ideas or advice?

fortunately we have a few days before the planned cutting of the body shell to figure this out.
 
An odity when I got it there was a push switch below and to the left of the steering wheel.
didn't seem to do anything when pressed then the switch fell out and still nothing happened.
its 2 wire drops down below the drivers side fuse board and then no idea yet where they go next.

A mystery to solve in due course.
 

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Good luck looking forward to it.
Many Disco projects in this section so have a browse

J
 
It was running and now having carefully moved all the wiring looms forward to the B pillars the Alarm/ Immobiliser is stuck on. I have put new battery's in both keys, the vehicle battery is fine, I do not have the EAK code.
Sometimes when I unlock it with the key from the drivers door the alarm goes off when I open the door but sometimes alarm isn't until I put the key in the ignition.
doing the 1st step of entering an EAK code where you gold the turn of the key for 5 seconds and should get a beep docent happen so even if i can get the EAK from LR I am not sure it will help.
can anyone offer any ideas or advice?

fortunately we have a few days before the planned cutting of the body shell to figure this out.

This turned out to be the culprit. so no fault except the one I created for myself.
Reconnected the body earth connector to the bodywork and all is working again .

Hear is the link to the the discussion where it was solved. contains a lot of good infomation.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/d2-immobiliser-issues.381492/#post-5414035

Thankyou
 

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Well today progress has been made. she came apart a lot easier than we had expected.
looks like I have got me a convertible.

we are going to remove but try to save as much of the floor and wheel arches as possible with a view to refitting them during the rebuild.
it will save us putting a marine ply floor in the pickup bed. The wheel arches will also mean we hopefully don't have to fabricate any.

you may think then just leave the floor in but we want it out so we can make use of the easy access to work on chassis, suspension and whatever else we find that needs attention.

so a little more to remove.
fit the back to the cabin with its window and its fibre glass roof then onto the clean , inspect and remediate the chassis.

Probably a bit late to go back now.
 

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Progress was made yesterday .
The rest of the back came off and we have test fitted the clamshell and roof on the cab.

She even managed
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to draw blood
 
We did discover some issues now we have easy access to the chassis.
need to replace both rear upper shock mounts. (we knew about 1 of them)
and one upper spring cup.

some of the drivers side chassis needs patching but as we are going to shorten it we can use the metal of the passenger side rear chassis as patching material.
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More progress has been made.
seams welded up where the floor was cut off.
the sills have had end caps welded on as they have to be trimmed slightly to fir the clamshell back on.

the back is one and attached with Tiger seal (copy of) along with some tech screws that will me mostly removed later.
the rear window is in and glued with tech screws to hold it while the glue sets.
The techs crews on the window will be removed and the holes filled and then the rubber seal will be fitted to hide where they were.

the roof is on glued and clamped on an inner seam while it sets and some nuts bolts and washers will be added later along with an additional bead of glue in places.

The whole kit is precision made and fits the Disco like a glove, there is no loss of room to put the front seats back either.

A few days off from this while my Range Rover is made MOT ready then onto more chassis patching and suspension works.

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The project continues with the cab now watertight and the rear chassis rebuilt along with new 2" raised springs and shocks
I have 2" lift blocks as well but we are not going to fit them yet as they may not be needed with the weight reduction.

a lot of hammerite is going to be used once the rest of the chassis is cleaned.
new fuel tank is next and reroute exhaust.

then front suspension.

also got to work out what else we should replace while we are doing this list so far rear anti roll bar bushes and drop links
possiable the same up front
brerak flexies and copper break lines
 

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An odity when I got it there was a push switch below and to the left of the steering wheel.
didn't seem to do anything when pressed then the switch fell out and still nothing happened.
its 2 wire drops down below the drivers side fuse board and then no idea yet where they go next.

A mystery to solve in due course.

Is it an auto?

It might be a start switch. When the xyz switch plays up it can be difficult to start. I had that and just wired a switch direct from the battery to the starter motor solenoid. Got me out of many a pickle.
 
sorry for the delay in updates.
work goes on when weather allows

next us are new fuel tank and replacing the rear breaks
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