Beretta man · Nov 19, 2023

Hi I did a oil service yesterday with the car jacked up and bonnet open for over 1 hr
After getting in the car wouldn’t crank and alarm started going off ect…
I tried putting In eka code but forgot about bonnet open so didn’t work after few goes
I got a friend to come with nanocom and he disarmed the immobiliser but then the battery died after all the trying
Charged the battery over night and the led light on the dash does not come on at all now so is this a sign that it’s disengaged but car still won’t crank..battery is showing 12.3v
Any help please

Landmark2 · Nov 19, 2023

If the battery is ok and the car won't crank it's a sign that's it's imobilised. Do your key fobs work to mobilise it?
Griff

Beretta man · Nov 19, 2023

I have only the 1 key and it doesn’t have fob on it

Beretta man · Nov 19, 2023

The small red light keeps flashing even when I turn on ignition

discool · Nov 19, 2023

Check if battery voltage is reaching the starter solenoid while cranking, if it is than u could have an issue with the soloenoid.

Stanleysteamer · Nov 19, 2023

12.3 volts isn't enough. Charge it up at the very least. Yuo may be surprised what happens once it is up to correct voltage.

sierrafery · Nov 19, 2023

Beretta man said:
The small red light keeps flashing even when I turn on ignition

Then the immobiliser is not disabled well cos if it was the red led should be off all the time... remobilise it with EKA code

Beretta man · Nov 19, 2023

sierrafery said:
Then the immobiliser is not disabled well cos if it was the red led should be off all the time... remobilise it with EKA code

After putting in the eka code the light went out for a few min but still won’t turn over
After few min the red light starts flashing again but no alarm ect

sierrafery · Nov 19, 2023

AS long as the led is flashing the alarm/immobiliser is not disabled maybe just some of the settings but not all. Ask your friend with nanocom to disable everything which is alarm/immobiliser related, first of all the alarm must be set to "not fitted" just remobilise it with EKA before nanocom is plugged in otherwise no settings are allowed and if still no joy after that check if the starter gets feed or not, remove the starter relay and bridge the prependicular cavities in the fusebox with a wire to see if it cranks or not cos if doesnt crank that way the problem is on the starter's circuit... just make sure it's not in gear when you do that.

in the worst case the BCU gave up the ghost

Stanleysteamer · Nov 19, 2023

Beretta man said:
Charged the battery over night and the led light on the dash does not come on at all now so is this a sign that it’s disengaged but car still won’t crank..battery is showing 12.3v

I am going to insist on this.
12.3 volts is not enough.

Beretta man said:
Hi I did a oil service yesterday with the car jacked up and bonnet open for over 1 hr
After getting in the car wouldn’t crank and alarm started going off ect…
I tried putting In eka code but forgot about bonnet open so didn’t work after few goes
I got a friend to come with nanocom and he disarmed the immobiliser but then the battery died after all the trying
Charged the battery over night and the led light on the dash does not come on at all now so is this a sign that it’s disengaged but car still won’t crank..battery is showing 12.3v
Any help please

Does your fob not work to turn off the flashing light on the dash?

sierrafery · Nov 19, 2023

Stanleysteamer said:
Does your fob not work to turn off the flashing light on the dash?

did you miss post #3 ?

Beretta man · Nov 19, 2023

Stanleysteamer said:
I am going to insist on this.
12.3 volts is not enough.

Does your fob not work to turn off the flashing light on the dash?

The key doesn’t have a fob,it’s just normal key

sierrafery · Nov 19, 2023

Stanleysteamer said:
12.3 volts is not enough.

Is not enough to say that the battery is fully charged but more than enough to crank the engine

Stanleysteamer · Nov 19, 2023

sierrafery said:
did you miss post #3 ?

Yep, well spotted!

Beretta man · Nov 19, 2023

sierrafery said:
did you miss post #3 ?

Key doesn’t have fob it’s basic key

Beretta man · Nov 19, 2023

This is the key I’ve only ever had

Landmark2 · Nov 19, 2023

Hi, This is an aftermarket key that looks like an original and as you can see it has 2 buttons. One to lock and one to unlock AND remobilise it.
Griff

discovery td5 key - Google Search

Andy Warren · Nov 19, 2023

I don't understand how you managed to use the truck without a proper key (with lock/unlock buttons), like the one in the link from @Landmark2 as you said you had to get a friend round with a nanocom to disarm the immobiliser so I presume the alarm/immobiliser was working prior to your friend coming round. I know you can unlock the truck with the key blade but it sets the alarm off. I'm a tad confused

. Hope you get it sorted.

sierrafery · Nov 20, 2023

Andy Warren said:
I know you can unlock the truck with the key blade but it sets the alarm off. I'm a tad confused

Unlocking with the key sets the alarm off only if the alarm is on factory setting("key never"), if the alarm is disabled(set to "not fitted") or set to "always disarm with key"(eventually to "key only" if there is no fob at all) and the "passive immobiliser" disabled as well the fob is not compulsory even though it's good to have one(better two)... that's why i didnt say anything about it after the OP mentioned that he has no fob. These things are manageable if ALL the alarm/immobiliser options are properly set by somebody who knows how the system works and what to do with nanocom which involves some study.

Andy Warren · Nov 20, 2023

Hi, I understand that alarm & immobiliser can be disabled for 'key only' so I now know that's how he was able to use the truck (without fob), so I wonder what could of happened for the alarm to go off & for it to become immobilised (not cranking) just because of an 'oil service'

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