My connections are knackered. I tighten them up and i get to a point where the spanner doesn't tighten anymore but i find i'm turning the connector around on the battery post.
Looking on ebay i found these battery terminal shims.

I've just ordered a couple and will report back with my findings.
Just search for 'battery post repair shims' if anybody else is desperate.

yfo866 said:

My connections are knackered. I tighten them up and i get to a point where the spanner doesn't tighten anymore but i find i'm turning the connector around on the battery post.
Looking on ebay i found these battery terminal shims.View attachment 193561

I've just ordered a couple and will report back with my findings.
Just search for 'battery post repair shims' if anybody else is desperate.

Click to expand...

I would just replace the battery terminal, it's more a case of the clamp being stretched by being done up too tight.

You could have saved the postage and waiting around and just trimmed a piece of copper pipe and slit it to make a shim, I would just replace the battery terminal though and don't do them up silly tight in future.

They are a rubbish design, compared to old fashioned standard ones. I find it helps to put a socket of the correct size over the terminal and then bash it down onto the post before tightening it up. One of the most annoying things on the TD5.

I flattened out some copper pipe and inserted between terminal and battery post. No further issues.

Thanks for your replies guys.
I don't have any copper pipe and i suspect it may be too thick.

I was looking at replacing the terminals but i don't like using the 'double bolt directly onto the end of the cable' type terminals which i'd have to use because I've never had much joy using this type on earth clamps on welders and i don't have the tool to crimp the proper ends onto the cable to ensure good conductivity.

I haven't done them up 'silly' tight. They are done up as tight as they'll go because they are already buggered by the previous owner/s.
Why the hell Land Rover couldn't do what they, and every other manufacturer have done in the past and fitted normal terminals i don't know.

A mate who also had a Disco 2 suggested the socket on the connection method. It's bad enough having to keep a spanner in the cubby box. I don't particularly want to add a socket too.
I'll try these shims as they are less than four quid, are designed for purpose and means i don't have to mess about changing the cables or ends.
I currently have a short piece of copper wire wedged between the positive terminal and the post. A previous owner's method of curing the problem...

As after a few days of none use the car's battery is flat. I don't think that the loose connections are the cause but i'm ruling the easy possible causes out first. So far this and disconnecting the feed for the heated seats and front bumper LED light bar. Next will be replacing the front cigarette lighter as it doesn't work.

If anybody has any suggestions as to common electrical faults that may be the cause of the drain, answers on a postcard...

It isn't the interior lights remaining on. I watch them like a hawk every time i lock the car to ensure that they do go off.

YouTube "parasitic draw" very easy to do just need an avo meter.

yfo866 said:

It's bad enough having to keep a spanner in the cubby box.

Click to expand...

I have both panier-type boxes in the back of my 5 seater and the two pockets on the door FULL of tools and spares. You cannot even trust the jack (oil leaks) so I even take a smallish trolley jack with me in case I need to do something tricky like change a wheel (ironic smiley face). This includres fluids mind you.

Am I the only person or are others as paranoid as me?! And yes, I do have international recovery as well!