neilly
Well-Known Member
Hi @cfwnotloB ,
Did you check the MOT history etc before hand? I hope it is not one of the ones I saw the other month over that way, complete rust buckets......
, Nah, come to think of it they were both Manuals.
When did you get it?
One thing is make sure you get the EKA code.
Have you checked all the lights on the dash work correctly? I did a brief guide on what to check in the Disco section as a sticky.
Cheers
Did you check the MOT history etc before hand? I hope it is not one of the ones I saw the other month over that way, complete rust buckets......
, Nah, come to think of it they were both Manuals.When did you get it?
One thing is make sure you get the EKA code.
Have you checked all the lights on the dash work correctly? I did a brief guide on what to check in the Disco section as a sticky.
Cheers
Lights on dash all ok - looks like rust is not a problem - but not 100% sure as not been underneath -Hi @cfwnotloB ,
Did you check the MOT history etc before hand? I hope it is not one of the ones I saw the other month over that way, complete rust buckets......
When did you get it?
One thing is make sure you get the EKA code.
Have you checked all the lights on the dash work correctly? I did a brief guide on what to check in the Disco section as a sticky.
Cheers
its more 'it doesnt drive as it should - gearbox problem' - it was a good price compared to others I've seen online
so there is a little in reserve to sort any issues
so just looking for somebody who has more knowledge than I have to point me in the right direction
Discodevon
Well-Known Member
Oh dear... You did what I did back in 2012 then got underneath and regretted it big time, then changed the chassis...
Yours might be good though
Yours might be good though
davidsmith1307
Well-Known Member
I think a little more details on the 'it doesn't drive as it should - gearbox problem' would help.
Not been underneath Brave purchase then.
Check the chassis. Then check it again. Particularly from the back wheels back and round the fuel tank. If it is in good nick, use the improving weather to treat it and keep it that way.
What year is the DIsco?
Not been underneath
Brave purchase then.Check the chassis. Then check it again. Particularly from the back wheels back and round the fuel tank. If it is in good nick, use the improving weather to treat it and keep it that way.
What year is the DIsco?
Hi all
Sold the freelander bought a td5 auto - could do with an experienced opinion of whether i bought a donkey
or some other type of animal - located in Dunstable near the Ewe n Lamb Public house, Tea, coffee, biscuits/ cake
hi mate
so you've also jumped ship and got a disco
Feathers McGraw
Well-Known Member
Check the refill plug will undo first, if it's good then drain the fluid, drop the sump, change the internal filter, clean and replace the sump and refill with good quality transmission fluid. See how it goes then.
hi mate
so you've also jumped ship and got a disco
liked the freelander but now it's a case of been there done that
thought I'd go for a more 'Respectable' Landy
as I dont possess a hair dryerwanted a 3 but much too expensive for a toy
I think a little more details on the 'it doesn't drive as it should - gearbox problem' would help.
Not been underneath
Check the chassis. Then check it again. Particularly from the back wheels back and round the fuel tank. If it is in good nick, use the improving weather to treat it and keep it that way.
What year is the DIsco?
51 reg -- just seems to need too much throttle to get anywhere -- maybe its just me as I drive a 2.7 Merc and its very light on the throttle to make it move
ok any pointers on where the info is on how?
Haynes or online guides?
not afraid of taking it apart but would prefer a bit of insight into how
neilly
Well-Known Member
@cfwnotloB
Download the Rave manual.
Should have what you need.
http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/
Rave01.iso is the file you need.
Cheers
Download the Rave manual.
Should have what you need.
http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/
Rave01.iso is the file you need.
Cheers
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
So a 51 reg td5 same as mine it was a slug before I had mike at dynochip do hi magic also around town the owners book say drive it in 3rd not D it makes a huge difference as the torque converter locks up sooner and its not always hunting for a gear.
thanks - downloading
thanks - so what is the recommended treatment?
neilly
Well-Known Member
You had to ask......LOL, one of the questions that will receive multiple different answers. From Dinitrol / POR15 / Waxoil, even old engine oil.
Whichever you do, give it a darn good pressure washing and or steam cleaning, wire brushing and make sure to clean and then treat the inside as well.
If you do a search for any of the above you will get multiple hits.
Cheers
You had to ask -- well you did suggest
old engine oil takes me back - when i was an apprentice, one of the other's dad used to spray underneath his landy every year with old engine oil - landy sat outside his house on an old cinder back street, nobody cared about the environment in the 70's or had block paving that looks crap with oil drips all over
is waxoil easy to apply? i'm sure my dad had his Austin Cambridge done with something similar - Zeebart rings a bell, - back in the 70's but was a professional job not a DIY one
neilly
Well-Known Member
You had to ask -- well you did suggest
Oooh , No I didn't......................LOL.....
Waxoil seems to be the one people are now moving away from. Whatever you choose expect to get very messy and dirty.
But before venturing to do it, go over the chassis carefully and make sure no welding need s doing first.
Cheers
brian47
Well-Known Member
Oooh , No I didn't......................LOL.....
Waxoil seems to be the one people are now moving away from. Whatever you choose expect to get very messy and dirty.
But before venturing to do it, go over the chassis carefully and make sure no welding need s doing first.
Cheers
There are a number of underside treatments, Waxoyl is losing favour these days, Dinitrol products, I use the plural because there are a number of products for specific purposes, underside treatment, a harder treatment for under the wings, and one for squirting inside the chassis members and so on. There's also Bilt Hamber which seems to be gaining some good reviews.
Old engine oil isn't particularly environmentally friendly these days and there's the risk from carcinogens which can sometimes be found in the stuff.
With all of these products, steam cleaning and most important drying is recommended.
The job can be done by the DIY home user but it will be messy. If you intend to do it yourself, you'd be advised to get hold of a large plastic sheet, damp proof membrane form a builder's merchant is good to park on to do the work.
Some of the products have vapours which can make you drowsy so work say ten minutes at a time then take a breather. Regarding your own protection I'd advise goggles or a face shield, disposable overalls with a hood and gloves. It's easier to throw some nitrile gloves away than have to scrape the stuff off your skin.
Vanmancan
Active Member
Keep a eye on chassis rust
Keep a eye in oil in the engine loom
Keep a eye on chassis rust !
Keep a eye on water coming in sunroofs
Keep a eye on chassis rust!!!
Im near Aylesbury and have a nanocom for when it lights up the dash like a xmas tree ! As for slow pulling away might not be autobox could be a stuck egr ! Has it been removed/blanked off?
Oh yes and did I mention keep a eye out for chassis rust
Keep a eye in oil in the engine loom
Keep a eye on chassis rust !
Keep a eye on water coming in sunroofs
Keep a eye on chassis rust!!!
Im near Aylesbury and have a nanocom for when it lights up the dash like a xmas tree ! As for slow pulling away might not be autobox could be a stuck egr ! Has it been removed/blanked off?
Oh yes and did I mention keep a eye out for chassis rust
cooltide
sheep fancier
Normal for one of these to rev to around 2800 when pushed, way past peak torque.
