Just have to hope that there wasn't too much watter in the brake fluid to cause corrosion and scoring of the cylinders. I am assuming he can get new pistons.depends if it gets damaged when it pops out.. more likely it needs the seal groove cleaning out, dried and rubber grease applying to stop/slow further corrosion
What do you mean by "coated"?motorbike caliper pistons are usually coated, to reduce friction and help inhibit corrosion.. i'm surprised the same isnt true for cars, which typically see more use in harsh conditions when many bikes are tucked away for winter
in other words.... " a bit of a clean up!" Don't think popping it out could cause any more damage than is already there. A torn seal is about all I'd expect as a worst case scenario. Unless maybe it tears the seal and then scores the bore.depends if it gets damaged when it pops out.. more likely it needs the seal groove cleaning out, dried and rubber grease applying to stop/slow further corrosion
I don't mind buying Britpart supplied parts although I don't usually buy their cheapest offering. In general we don't have that many problems with their parts. If you expect them to last as long as original parts then of course you will be disappointed.Especially at Britpart are basically single use due to pants seals and pistons.
I don't know what process OEM use, but i know there's various options from clear anodising to much more exotic, 'diamond-like carbon' is a popular one. Aftermarket ones go more exotic stillWhat do you mean by "coated"?
I have seen ones that are chrome plated, which is fine until it gets pitted.
Is stainless a good option? It's not as hard and therefore more susceptible to scoring and other damageThere are also stainless steel pistons available for the Disco 1's. Much better than chrome plated. Im sure there are versions for the 2. I always strip down the units, lubricate the piston with red rubber grease, and make sure its rubbed inside the seal as well, and its always worked well for me. If I can, I also the seal kit with a good quality make... On the whole, cheap units are pretty poorly lubricated from the factory, which is why they rust and fail.
Disco 1 stainless steel piston
that's how it workswith engine running you can press the pedal to the floor, with some resistance
If the reservoir got empty power bleed is needed too cos there is air in the modulator in the active side of it, did you do that?Changed the calipers and pads, bleed the brakes twice and no air coming out.
The pedal stifness is not so important, the question is: does the vehicle stop well? once a piston is stuck the pedal gets firmer so now as all are working well can be a bit lighter than before, as long as the braking distance is OK no worrieswith engine running you can press the pedal to the floor, with some resistance.
Apart from 1 seized piston they worked fine before caliper change.
Pretty simple things really, who would of thought someone could make them wrong?Must admit I've never come across a new 'faulty' caliper. Back in 2021 I refurbed the all the brakes on mine, rears (genuine) only needed new seals but with the fronts it was cheaper to replace the calipers (I intend to overhaul the originals as they're genuine but haven't got round to it yet ). Not sure on the make (of replacements) but they've been fine, in fact to this day I still impressed at how well it stops (full set of Mintex discs & pads at the same time). Anyway mine come from Lr-trade-parts-uk. Keep us posted,all the best.
I quote myself from an earlyer post which you didnt answer toPress the pedal a couple of times and it will pump up so sounds like air somewhere
If the reservoir got empty power bleed is needed too cos there is air in the modulator in the active side of it, did you do that?
I did answer this morning, I didn't ignore your advice. I clamped the pipes off, the master cylinder wasn't drained out.I quote myself from an earlyer post which you didnt answer to