motorbike caliper pistons are usually coated, to reduce friction and help inhibit corrosion.. i'm surprised the same isnt true for cars, which typically see more use in harsh conditions when many bikes are tucked away for winter
 
depends if it gets damaged when it pops out.. more likely it needs the seal groove cleaning out, dried and rubber grease applying to stop/slow further corrosion
Just have to hope that there wasn't too much watter in the brake fluid to cause corrosion and scoring of the cylinders. I am assuming he can get new pistons.
 
motorbike caliper pistons are usually coated, to reduce friction and help inhibit corrosion.. i'm surprised the same isnt true for cars, which typically see more use in harsh conditions when many bikes are tucked away for winter
What do you mean by "coated"?
I have seen ones that are chrome plated, which is fine until it gets pitted.
 
depends if it gets damaged when it pops out.. more likely it needs the seal groove cleaning out, dried and rubber grease applying to stop/slow further corrosion
in other words.... " a bit of a clean up!" Don't think popping it out could cause any more damage than is already there. A torn seal is about all I'd expect as a worst case scenario. Unless maybe it tears the seal and then scores the bore.
 
Especially at Britpart are basically single use due to pants seals and pistons.
I don't mind buying Britpart supplied parts although I don't usually buy their cheapest offering. In general we don't have that many problems with their parts. If you expect them to last as long as original parts then of course you will be disappointed.
Original £450
Britpart £50.
Named OEM around £150
 
What do you mean by "coated"?
I have seen ones that are chrome plated, which is fine until it gets pitted.
I don't know what process OEM use, but i know there's various options from clear anodising to much more exotic, 'diamond-like carbon' is a popular one. Aftermarket ones go more exotic still
 
There are also stainless steel pistons available for the Disco 1's. Much better than chrome plated. Im sure there are versions for the 2. I always strip down the units, lubricate the piston with red rubber grease, and make sure its rubbed inside the seal as well, and its always worked well for me. If I can, I also replace the seal kit with a good quality make... On the whole, cheap units are pretty poorly lubricated from the factory, which is why they rust and fail.

Disco 1 stainless steel piston
 
There are also stainless steel pistons available for the Disco 1's. Much better than chrome plated. Im sure there are versions for the 2. I always strip down the units, lubricate the piston with red rubber grease, and make sure its rubbed inside the seal as well, and its always worked well for me. If I can, I also the seal kit with a good quality make... On the whole, cheap units are pretty poorly lubricated from the factory, which is why they rust and fail.

Disco 1 stainless steel piston
Is stainless a good option? It's not as hard and therefore more susceptible to scoring and other damage
 
Changed the calipers and pads, bleed the brakes twice and no air coming out.
Still can't get a decent brake pedal, with engine running you can press the pedal to the floor, with some resistance.
Apart from 1 seized piston they worked fine before caliper change.
Any ideas?
 
with engine running you can press the pedal to the floor, with some resistance
that's how it works
Changed the calipers and pads, bleed the brakes twice and no air coming out.
If the reservoir got empty power bleed is needed too cos there is air in the modulator in the active side of it, did you do that?
with engine running you can press the pedal to the floor, with some resistance.
Apart from 1 seized piston they worked fine before caliper change.
The pedal stifness is not so important, the question is: does the vehicle stop well? once a piston is stuck the pedal gets firmer so now as all are working well can be a bit lighter than before, as long as the braking distance is OK no worries
 
I found when my brake pedal was going to the floor, that one of the seals on the master cylinder was fecked, so allowing fluid to bypass it.... theres a picture on here somewhere. I just changed the master and all was fine after.
 
No the brakes don't/won't stop the car. When I said some resistance maybe I should have said very little.
Clamped the flexi so the only brake fluid I lost was in the caliper.
Changed the calipers as one had a sticking piston.
Put almost a litre of brake fluid through it.
ANYWAY I put the old ones back on and they bleed up and work fine, after freeing off the sticking piston.
I am returning the calipers under warranty, although Paddocks don't know this yet, they sent the cheapest Chinese crap available by the looks of it, not even Britpart.
Will be replacing the calipers with a different make before driving it.
Googled the name on the packaging with no results, not a good sign!
Have to say I usually am a supporter of the service from Paddocks but the last few orders I have had to question them over parts. Bought some Delphi drop links which came in a plain box with no indication of any manufacturer, for example.
 
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Must admit I've never come across a new 'faulty' caliper. Back in 2021 I refurbed the all the brakes on mine, rears (genuine) only needed new seals but with the fronts it was cheaper to replace the calipers (I intend to overhaul the originals as they're genuine but haven't got round to it yet :rolleyes:). Not sure on the make (of replacements) but they've been fine, in fact to this day I still impressed at how well it stops (full set of Mintex discs & pads at the same time). Anyway mine come from Lr-trade-parts-uk. Keep us posted,all the best.
 

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Must admit I've never come across a new 'faulty' caliper. Back in 2021 I refurbed the all the brakes on mine, rears (genuine) only needed new seals but with the fronts it was cheaper to replace the calipers (I intend to overhaul the originals as they're genuine but haven't got round to it yet :rolleyes:). Not sure on the make (of replacements) but they've been fine, in fact to this day I still impressed at how well it stops (full set of Mintex discs & pads at the same time). Anyway mine come from Lr-trade-parts-uk. Keep us posted,all the best.
Pretty simple things really, who would of thought someone could make them wrong?
No obvious leaks on them but it was if air was in them.
I have changed brake parts and bleed them on various vehicles plenty of times with no problem. Bleed them a few times with no luck.
Bleed the old ones once and just fine.
 
@sierrafery and @tilly2 I have been thinking a bit more about your suggestions with regards to the master cylinder.
Could it be that it just isn't exerting enough pressure onto the new calipers, having to push them further than the partly siezed original ones?
I am wondering if it was a previous problem masked by the old calipers.
Press the pedal a couple of times and it will pump up so sounds like air somewhere 🤔
 
I quote myself from an earlyer post which you didnt answer to
I did answer this morning, I didn't ignore your advice. I clamped the pipes off, the master cylinder wasn't drained out.
Just wondering if the master cylinder could have had a previous undiagnosed problem.
I was unhappy yesterday and might have been a bit quick to blame the calipers, maybe.
Just to confirm NO fluid was lost from anywhere except the calipers.
 

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