Scroll up and see post 15, and actually the correct layout is this

View attachment 200666
This one is a bit out of left field but there is a notorious P clip on top of the tranny where the insulation/wiring often chafes and wears through until all sorts of funny stuff happens with the Auto box. Have you checked this? Do not know if this can even have anything to do with it. Did say it was out of left field!;)
Soon as weather improves I will check this on my mates pit Thanks
 
Then there's definitely some wiring mod made on your vehicle cos it's no way for the autobox to work with that fuse blown.... and quit inserting stronger fuses there cos it might end up in fire
 
Concentrate to my replies please if you want to fix that ... it's obvious from my demonstration that you dont have to check the gearbox harness
You of course would know that much better than me, i DID say it was out of left field and obviously the left field should, in this case, be left where it is and not looked for in his mates pit!!;););)
Mind you, I think you will agree that the dodgy P clip is always worth checking on from time to time as it does cause lots pf peeps problems, if not this one.:)
 
Soon as weather improves I will check this on my mates pit Thanks
Then there's definitely some wiring mod made on your vehicle cos it's no way for the autobox to work with that fuse blown.... and quit inserting stronger fuses there cos it might end up in fire
Yes you are right will not do that again. :(
Thanks
Had this Disco 4 - 5 years don't think previous owner did any mods as I check fuses on regular basis and never seen this one gone b4.
I only built up the Fuse Amps in stages to see what would happen.
I was above the engine bay fuse box every time with LED torch checking fuse box, soon as I smelt burning on the 40A killed the battery and removed but this proved after removing fuse box and checking all underneath fuse box there is no burns or damage at fuse box so eliminates that

Diagrams say F12 is 20A and goes to ECM and auto ECU.
Fuse goes to gearbox (AND) engine on (V8)
but on TD5 (ONLY) goes to the gearbox.
F12 also comes out on the 8 way topside plug next to the battery inputs, its the outside of the fuse box on the line of 5b pins
 
F12 also comes out on the 8 way topside plug next to the battery inputs, its the outside of the fuse box on the line of 5b pins
C0575 where F12 is linked to pin 3 should be a 6 way plug

C0575.jpg
 
Then there's definitely some wiring mod made on your vehicle cos it's no way for the autobox to work with that fuse blown.... and quit inserting stronger fuses there cos it might end up in fire
Yes, sounds it.
Check for power at pin 26 with and without the F12 and if its constantly powered its been given a separate supply.
F12 is probably blowing because the cut end or short to earth was never taped up.
New source is likely to be from closest switched supply to the ecu.
 
You have my full respect for the way you edited all those diagrams but that info was already given at post 15 in my rudimentary way so i feel neglected :cool:
Weather has been terrible so not had a chance to check further but auto box still running fine.
I am far from an expert on electrical side that's for sure! I did strip out the fuse box after fellow I was talking to was obviously concerned the 40A melting had caused major issues. so stripped out the fuse box and checked all the wiring to all connectors underneath the fuse box. He said to check connector 575 as he said there is a purple and yellow wire on 575 that really should have melted the loom if it melted a 40A fuse all cables were fine no show of melting or burn marks.
I will try and follow the wires from under seat and see if any issues there. I did check the harness under the fuse box up to fire wall when checking 575 and all looked fine no chaffing or bare wires at that section at least.

On different subject your post on setting rear air suspension D2 with HAWKEYE was of great help after my mates pass side air bag blew 2 weeks ago he had a mechanic down after work and he gave up after some time. another fellow let me borrow a HAWKEYE and I followed your post and with a bit of faffing it worked and rear was with in 2mm difference both sides
 
Yes, sounds it.
Check for power at pin 26 with and without the F12 and if its constantly powered its been given a separate supply.
F12 is probably blowing because the cut end or short to earth was never taped up.
New source is likely to be from closest switched supply to the ecu.
Will try this also when I get a chance thanks for your help.
 

Similar threads