Hi guys,
Well the old girl failed the MOT so one thing I'd not done before was changing out the linkages between steering wheel shaft and the steering box.
I'm not a mechanic, just an enthusiastic DIY'er through financial necessity and the guys who post on here and other Landy sites have helped me tremendously in the past with stuff that I'm sure is simple to them but until you know it, difficult to peeps like me.
Had a good look on here and on line and found a few good links so here's a few pics of mine. First off, I didn't follow the manual really but I recommend reading it first for guidance. I locked my steering just using the steering lock and fine tuned the steering wheel position by adjusting the position on the upper splines. A little time consuming but read the manual and you may choose to do the same.
Got the shaft and lower u/j from Britpart, not too expensive.
I removed the engine cover to improve access and it's quite good from the top. You can clearly see the splined shaft at the top coming through the bulkhead and the top u/j with it's single securing hex bolt. Following it forward leads to the splined shaft from the steering box where the two u/j's are secured by a single hex bolt and the T-40 torx screw.
I thoroughly soaked the two 14mm bolts (if memory serves) and the single T-40 torx screw securing the old one in WD40 and the point where the shaft slides up and down.
The hex bolts came out easy but I managed to snap my torx socket on the torx bolt, not impressed as had to go and buy another mid way through the job.
Lots more WD40 and out it came. Next was to ease the old one off.
I copied the method I'd seen in a post online and used a crow-bar to carefully ease the joints off the splined ends. I placed a hammer behind the bar at the bulk-head end for a bit of leverage. It came off surprisingly easy, I guess the easing oil did the trick.
To replace is virtually just the reverse of what I've written. The new one has three T-40 torx screws instead of the two bolts and one screw.
Remove them completely and seperate the upper and lower parts.
Fit the two U/J's on the steering box then insert the upper part through the slot in the two U/J's and align the upper joint and slide it on to the steering column shaft splines.
When you insert the torx screws, ensure the screw holes align with the grooves in the splined shafts.
There are torque settings in the manual but I just re-tightened to what the old ones felt like to undo. As before, I suggest you check the manual.
As you can see, it's not difficult to do and doesn't require much in the way of tools. I don't have a very long extension to my ratchet so I just put a few together and it reached fine.
I'm not short but 'borrowing' my wifes kitchen steps helped me get in a position to reach in and down.
I hope this is of use to another inexperienced DIYer like me and any feed back from the more knowledgeable here is very welcome.
So, job done and not as difficult as I thought. Carried out a few other 'bits' for the MOT and the next day drove down to the garage.
If you look at the last two pictures you see the result of my meeting a deer on the road down.
Looks like it's going to be an insurance write-off so I'm not happy.
I've sort of had the options explained but if anyones' got any advice on what to do or say to the insurance peeps re the vehicle, I'd be grateful for a heads up.
Cheers Rob
Well the old girl failed the MOT so one thing I'd not done before was changing out the linkages between steering wheel shaft and the steering box.
I'm not a mechanic, just an enthusiastic DIY'er through financial necessity and the guys who post on here and other Landy sites have helped me tremendously in the past with stuff that I'm sure is simple to them but until you know it, difficult to peeps like me.
Had a good look on here and on line and found a few good links so here's a few pics of mine. First off, I didn't follow the manual really but I recommend reading it first for guidance. I locked my steering just using the steering lock and fine tuned the steering wheel position by adjusting the position on the upper splines. A little time consuming but read the manual and you may choose to do the same.
Got the shaft and lower u/j from Britpart, not too expensive.
I removed the engine cover to improve access and it's quite good from the top. You can clearly see the splined shaft at the top coming through the bulkhead and the top u/j with it's single securing hex bolt. Following it forward leads to the splined shaft from the steering box where the two u/j's are secured by a single hex bolt and the T-40 torx screw.
I thoroughly soaked the two 14mm bolts (if memory serves) and the single T-40 torx screw securing the old one in WD40 and the point where the shaft slides up and down.
The hex bolts came out easy but I managed to snap my torx socket on the torx bolt, not impressed as had to go and buy another mid way through the job.
Lots more WD40 and out it came. Next was to ease the old one off.
I copied the method I'd seen in a post online and used a crow-bar to carefully ease the joints off the splined ends. I placed a hammer behind the bar at the bulk-head end for a bit of leverage. It came off surprisingly easy, I guess the easing oil did the trick.
To replace is virtually just the reverse of what I've written. The new one has three T-40 torx screws instead of the two bolts and one screw.
Remove them completely and seperate the upper and lower parts.
Fit the two U/J's on the steering box then insert the upper part through the slot in the two U/J's and align the upper joint and slide it on to the steering column shaft splines.
When you insert the torx screws, ensure the screw holes align with the grooves in the splined shafts.
There are torque settings in the manual but I just re-tightened to what the old ones felt like to undo. As before, I suggest you check the manual.
As you can see, it's not difficult to do and doesn't require much in the way of tools. I don't have a very long extension to my ratchet so I just put a few together and it reached fine.
I'm not short but 'borrowing' my wifes kitchen steps helped me get in a position to reach in and down.
I hope this is of use to another inexperienced DIYer like me and any feed back from the more knowledgeable here is very welcome.
So, job done and not as difficult as I thought. Carried out a few other 'bits' for the MOT and the next day drove down to the garage.
If you look at the last two pictures you see the result of my meeting a deer on the road down.
Looks like it's going to be an insurance write-off so I'm not happy.
I've sort of had the options explained but if anyones' got any advice on what to do or say to the insurance peeps re the vehicle, I'd be grateful for a heads up.
Cheers Rob
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