Co-Pang-Yang

Co-Pang-Yang

Well-Known Member
Hi all.

This is really a thread for V8 owners to suggest if I'm wise or stupid with the following idea.

It's time for me to get another Landy, previously had a 300tdi Disco with winch, muds, +5" shocks, bla, bla......
Then I broke it and used the money to buy a 200tdi 110 as always wanted one, however this was short lived as I miss the warmth and comfort of a Disco lol.
Plan was to get another 300 add a 2" lift some MT's and use it as a daily/light greenlander/winter recovery.
However I've been offer a standard V8 for very little money. Chassis and body are in excellent condition needing no welding and just some waxoiling to keep it that way.

Question is should I? I don't do many miles (works less than 2 miles each way) should I consider it?
I do like doing a bit of fording and have read up a lot about the water proofing and how to drive it in this situations and I'm confident I could seal up the electrics well.

So after opinions and advice really.

Cheers Chris
 
Id buy it if it's right money, they're not too bad in water as long as you don't hit it at 100mph. they are juicy though.
 
if its cheap and in good nick metal wise (quite a rarity ) id get it and fit a 300 or 200 depending on disco age
 
Diesel conversion was an idea for the future. It's is very, very solid. Chassis, boot floor, sills, arches all good.
Mate of mine got it about 6 months ago very cheap but I think his daily mileage has increased so looking for a 300tdi.
 
sounds like a plan buy it and fit 300 later ,time to collect bits not a bad job fitting 300 into disco of that age
 
Co-Pang-Yang said:
Aye conversion is easy enough, not sure how I'd feel about ripping out a V8 though lol
Click to expand...

selling on a running V8 is going to bring in some pennies though so all in all not a bad little project for not too much cash, I know of a kid in cumbria who needs a RUNNING V8 ;)
 
Dr_evil said:
feck off polski :mad: :p
Click to expand...

you must be lurking to bite that quickly, who told you there might be a running V8 coming out soon? it is ok even if he doesnt do it until summer it is still gonna be quicker than waiting for you to fix that lemon of yours ;):p
 
:lol: I would like to keep it petrol of I could.
What are they like in real world driving and towing compared to the 300tdi? On paper they have nearly 70 more hp and about +35 of torque.

Also what about reliability? Do they suffer from slipped liners and blown head gaskets like the P38?
 
Personally I am offended that you are asking these questions!!

Real world they use double the fuel that a 300tdi does.

I know this because I have mine (which is modded I suppose which doesn't help) and my dad has a standard 300.

However they are also a different beast.

It's a disco when it's a 300tdi, it's some kind of world conquering noise machine when it's a v8.

Either way like JM says, if its a cheap chassis and body then buy anyway, I estimated £1500 to change to diesel on mine with an uprated intercooler and the other required mods and tickles, and then came to my senses and thought what the **** am I doing so immediately went out and spent £400 on an exhaust just to make sure I didn't change my mind again.

I know it's easy for me to say now that its squirted but the whole package really is legendary now.

Uses an absolute **** load of fuel though! :D
 
Ah I was hoping you'd post up on here at some point and express your views :D
it really is very very clean underneath, has an auto box and a 3 letter followed by 4 number private plate which is probably worth more than the asking price.
Think I'll put in an offer and go from there, Adrian Flux only want an extra £50 including £25 policy change and adding using it to and from work.
Reckon I'll hang on to my old Golf GTi as a daily at the same time to combat the fuel consumption lol.
 
Co-Pang-Yang said:
:lol: I would like to keep it petrol of I could.
What are they like in real world driving and towing compared to the 300tdi? On paper they have nearly 70 more hp and about +35 of torque.

Also what about reliability? Do they suffer from slipped liners and blown head gaskets like the P38?
Click to expand...
any big bore v8 3.9 on can suffer crack block behind the liner ,maintaining cooling system ,decent rad ,viscous fan ,thermostat etc is vital , the ones most prone went earlier in there life the ones that survived will if cooling system isnt maintained ,driving experience is far better in every way apart from fuel consumption,unlike a turbo eng they will pull from low revs on you just press harder which is a benefit towing up hills etc when if you let turbo spool down you near have to stop and start again ,i loved my std 3.9 h/c will feel better than l/c which is stamped near eng number near where dipstick enters block
 
Cheers for the info mate, very useful. I shall make sure I have a good look at the heating system and make sure heaters work, etc before I buy.
I've got a car trailer so the extra grunt will come in handy. Insurance check revealed its a 1997 truck so a nice late one
 
Co-Pang-Yang said:
Cheers for the info mate, very useful. I shall make sure I have a good look at the heating system and make sure heaters work, etc before I buy.
I've got a car trailer so the extra grunt will come in handy. Insurance check revealed its a 1997 truck so a nice late one
Click to expand...

The 3.9 in a disco has two circuits, heating and engine cooling which will be one to look at, just because the heater feels ok which it should in a few minutes as it's an air blending system therefore the matrix has a direct coolent feed and not reliant on the thermostat being open for the heat doesn't mean the cooling side is 100% which is a must.

As mentioned before condition of the kit that makes up the engine cooling system is important :)
 
Ah ok I didn't know that. So what's the best way to check the coolant system? Usual looking for oily deposits in the header tank and checking rad pipes for excess pressure.
 
Co-Pang-Yang said:
Ah ok I didn't know that. So what's the best way to check the coolant system? Usual looking for oily deposits in the header tank and checking rad pipes for excess pressure.
Click to expand...

That's for mechanical problems ie. head-gasket etc that may show up in the coolent but u still don't want to see that.

There's not much with the cooling system visual inspection of the rad as far as poss and also the condition of the coolent you don't want to see or smell any rust coloured water, then hoses and the indicated running tempreture is stable plus any leaks.

You could take an antifreeze strength dipper to test the antifreeze, if correct, that could be taken as a good sign and some care has been taken by the owner.

I thinks thats about it, so not a lot to do... and the heater should be hot :)
 
Start from cold, should take around 10 minutes on tickover to open the thermostat, by which time the engine will be not far off piping hot, the two small hoses to the top of the rad should be hot and when the thermo opens the top hose should get hot fast, the whole rad should be hot and the coolant guage might drop slightly.

Would be nice to have an infrared thermometer to see what running temps you have, ideal is 80-85 degrees :)
 
Cheers guys so much good info there. Pretty sure my mate has a ir thermometer so I'll see if I can grab it.
They hard work to bleed? Thinking with the weather we're having a anti-freeze change along with new stat might not be a bad idea.
 
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