fishsponge

fishsponge

New Member
So there's the question...!

My toolbox is in the boot. It's rather heavy and held against the rear of the back seat by the centre seat belt. If I had an accident, though, I suspect it'd jump out of the seat belt that wraps around its base and potentially head into the passenger compartment.

Would you say a dog guard would be strong enough to hold it there? I've never seen one up close, so can't comment.

Failing that, how easy is it to fit tie down points to a Disco 1? Would i have to remove the fuel tank or boot floor?
 
fishsponge said:
So there's the question...!

My toolbox is in the boot. It's rather heavy and held against the rear of the back seat by the centre seat belt. If I had an accident, though, I suspect it'd jump out of the seat belt that wraps around its base and potentially head into the passenger compartment.

Would you say a dog guard would be strong enough to hold it there? I've never seen one up close, so can't comment.

Failing that, how easy is it to fit tie down points to a Disco 1? Would i have to remove the fuel tank or boot floor?
Click to expand...


This question is with to many if's in it. Bolt the box down is the only way. but not practical. Make a frame for it and bolt it down again not practical.
A cargo net is probably the only safe way. Like a lorrie you have to secure the load properly.
 
I MIGHT HAVE A DOG GUARD THATS STRONG ENOUGH. bUT AT WORK SO CANT POST PICCIES.ILL PUYT SOME UP TONIGHT.
 
HI, the LR supplied dog guard for a disco 1 is held in with just a couple of screws and to be honest is only there to stop dogs jumping onto the back seats, if there was a crash the gaurd and dog would both end up on your lap
 
hmm... ok, it looks like tie down points are the best option...

how easy are they to fit though? does the boot floor or fuel tank have to come out?

Does anybody sell them that just bolt into already-existing points in the floor?

Basically, what is involved in fitting tie down points to the boot of a Disco 1?
 
The 'tie down' points exist as four bolt holes in the floor and take the fold flat loop style of bolt I believe they have an imperal thread. I have seen them on eBay as I was thinking of fitting them.

So "Basically" cutting holes in the carpet and just screwing in the bolts after removing the bungs or whatever is in the existing holes.
 
Holes are ready cut in the carpet and matting of all the D1s I have owned/worked on....thats not to say that EVERY D1 made is that way - we are talking British built (apologies to member on solihull prod line !) here !

Having crashed several cars and one disco badly,this is a serious issue. I got worse head injuries by being hit by flying possesions than from the crash. I only had light tools in at the time and they were in plastic,lidded,crates which disipated impact by shattering....luckily.

I have a genuine LR dog guard in one D1 and its got a couple of rivnut-and-bolt fittings.The other fits into the loadspace blind bracket by 2 pins and id held to the upper window frame by pads on screwclamps.Would I trust either to stop a snap-off type metal toolbox stack in even a minor shunt ? NO WAY.

Way I see it its not the lower fixings that are the issue,the seats will stop that going far,its the UPPER ones that will take the strain.And what I have got,and have seen,wont.

If this is the real use for your dog guard I reckon you would be better off going to a place that sells internal fittings for vans.There are a good many out there and they sell frame type things for just this purpose.A friend was saved from literally losing his head by one when a 38 tonner hit his dodge 50 full speed.Look for a place that supplies racking and panelling for commercials then go talk to them.They may have one to fit,if not,one that could be made to.Then you could bolt or weld the bugger in and not worry.
 
P1160169.jpg
 
Thanks for the pic... I don't think that'll be suitable unfortunately... tie down points are the way forward. I assume they'll be safe enough to hold my tool box and/or tool chest as that is what they are designed to do!

Trouble is, on eBay, when I search for "discovery tie down", I can only see one item and it's a set of tie down points for a Disco 2...

Anyone know where I can get some for a Disco 1?

As for the holes in the carpet, I'm not too bothered if they're there or not. They're easy enough to make. It's good to know the holes are already drilled in the boot floor though! That;s fantastic news!

And as for the upper points taking the strain... I won't need any upper tie-down points if I tie my load "down"... I can already tie it to the back of the back seat, I just need to stop it lifting up and going over the seat, hence the tie down points! :D
 
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I got a dog guard and a real heavy toolbox in the boot of my 300 (big ammo box with Trifor and recovery kit and spares), I used the mounting points off the 'removed' dickie seats both upper and lower mounts and bolted some transit D rings in there, I use a ratchet strap to hold it into the side when we go laning. seems to do the trick pretty well. I reckon I'd have to crash bigtime for it to find it's way onto my head!
 
not a bad idea, although it would involve removing my rear seats, which I do need from time to time.

Are the backs of the rear seats made of anything good enough to make good tie down points out of?

And still... does anyone know where I can get some boot-floor tie down points for a Disco 1? :D
 
As battenberg above Ebay.. just enter 'lashing ring's into the search you then just have to find the bolt size. You could always use the back seat seat belt mounts in the floor, but only if you have the D ring style belt fixings ie. the ones with detachable belt strap/buckles.
 
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ah... "lashing rings"... so that's what to search for! lol

Anyone know what thread etc... the holes in my boot floor will be? Trial and error could become expensive and time consuming once i've bought a million packs of bolts from screwfix!
 
I will look when I am out and post this evening....but at a guess,M8 or 10 . Although someone did mention that they were an imperial thread,which I find odd.

If you want the strongest then the circle-welded-to-a-bolt type would be the one,available from lifting gear suppliers,SWL rated.These would leave you with them standing proud so not as versatile as fold down ones,but you could always unscrew them when not needed.
If the holes have no thread then if it is a fitting rather than a hole in sheet metal your options open again.Either tap a thread of your choice or bolt through to the underside.This may depend on if the the floor panel has been replaced at some time and what with.

I realise that this is all rather obvious and not that helpful but its the best I can do for the minute. I have never heard of a specific "D1 tie down point" being spec'd by LR but thats not to say it never has been. I imagine independent LR dealers will have a piece that they supply for the job,such as nene overland.And I imagine that they will charge for the priviledge too. Again,a van fittings place would be a good bet.Or source it yourself and pay a lot less.
I will look at my 98 300 D1 later which I know has an original floor and let you know what I find.

Apologies for uselessness of reply
 
battenberg said:
the holes in my boot floor dont have a thread... lol..!!
Click to expand...

So presumably you'll have to take the fuel tank off to get a nut onto the underside?

As for searching eBay for tie down rings, you are right... there are lots of them, but I was searching for "discovery tie down"... that brought up very little! lol

It's good to know that there may not be such a thing as a Disco 1-specific tie down point... which (a) leaves plenty of options, but (b) means there isn't one clear winner.

I think i'll rip the carpet out when I have time (i assume it goes back in easily enough?) and see what is down there...
 
As everyone has said, the dog guard will not stop anything of any weight coming forwards, in fact the mountings are somewhat flimsy.
we've built a storage unit in the rear. it actually was designed to be assembled in situ, and cannot move forwards/ upwards without taking it apart. we've also bolted it down.
You can see from the photo that there is quiet a bit of weight there (uprated springs before anyone ask's)
All the straps, shackles, chains etc are in the LH compartment, tools & spares in the RH compartment, with a good quality trolley jack in the centre.
On the top is the ground anchor & pins, felling axe, pick-axe, spade & jack handle, along with the waffle boards. These are all strapped down to the top of the unit by motorcycle tie down straps (not the ratchet type) they're much easier to use and strong enough to keep everything secure.
(The *back wall* of the unit has a small gap to allow the passage of the straps underneath and over)
I've also mad & bolted a bar across the middle of the top *shelf* to split it into 2, so the straps come up & over the ground anchor, then under the bar, finally over the spade, jack handle etc.
( See ebay item 230374477373 for the type of strap)
 

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Gafferjim said:
As everyone has said, the dog guard will not stop anything of any weight coming forwards, in fact the mountings are somewhat flimsy.
we've built a storage unit in the rear. it actually was designed to be assembled in situ, and cannot move forwards/ upwards without taking it apart. we've also bolted it down.
You can see from the photo that there is quiet a bit of weight there (uprated springs before anyone ask's)
All the straps, shackles, chains etc are in the LH compartment, tools & spares in the RH compartment, with a good quality trolley jack in the centre.
On the top is the ground anchor & pins, felling axe, pick-axe, spade & jack handle, along with the waffle boards. These are all strapped down to the top of the unit by motorcycle tie down straps (not the ratchet type) they're much easier to use and strong enough to keep everything secure.
(The *back wall* of the unit has a small gap to allow the passage of the straps underneath and over)
I've also mad & bolted a bar across the middle of the top *shelf* to split it into 2, so the straps come up & over the ground anchor, then under the bar, finally over the spade, jack handle etc.
( See ebay item 230374477373 for the type of strap)
Click to expand...

i like what you've got there, now giving me ideas for what to put into the back of mine:D
 
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