F

Festerer

New Member

• Jul 6, 2014

• #1

Helllllooooo ,ive searched to no avail on here and google

I am changing my own cambelt on my disco 1 , ive ordered a new timing belt kit off ebay looks ok about £60 delivered

I have a timing pin kit , but its wrong

My disco is a 1996 ish P reg 2.5TDI Automatic xs model With EDC

the haynes manual sais i need kit LRT-12-0085

So i cannot find one forsale ,the question is .......

Is it really needed ? ive done lots of belts on cars over the years without the tools , maybe a pot of tip-ex .

 

blimp

Member

• Jul 6, 2014

• #2

Well if you need a pin, rummage around in a box of drill bits till you find one that fits. Usually works for me. Tip-ex is a must. Mark all wheels to a spot on housings, then if anything slips you know where to set it back to. You can also mark the old belt and transfer the marks to the new one when you have the old off, sort of belt and braces type thing,,, and good luck.

 

F

Festerer

New Member

• Jul 6, 2014

• #3

blimp said:

Well if you need a pin, rummage around in a box of drill bits till you find one that fits. Usually works for me. Tip-ex is a must. Mark all wheels to a spot on housings, then if anything slips you know where to set it back to. You can also mark the old belt and transfer the marks to the new one when you have the old off, sort of belt and braces type thing,,, and good luck.

Click to expand...

Cheers blimp

 

S

Sheffield

Well-Known Member

• Jul 7, 2014

• #4

There does seem to be some room for confusion here. The Land Rover manual says- use timing tool LRT-12-044. If EDC use LRT-12-085. If autobox use LRT-12-044 after removing blanking plate.
But most autos are also EDC. I assume LR mean use 044, but it could be taken that because they are EDC you should use 085.
Probably more important to lock the pump as that is more easily moved accidentally while doing the job.

 

KiwiTDI

Active Member

• Jul 7, 2014

• #5

I fitted a new cambelt In a 300tdi auto but made the flywheel lockIng tool out of the drain plug by drillIng and tappIng It and putting a small bolt in it afterwards.

you could probably gamble on the crank not moving during belt replacement but it would add a bit of risk to the job. I found the timIng needed resetting from scratch as well for which yoh need the tool. Maybe due to belt stretch?

 

Brian S

Well-Known Member

• Jul 7, 2014

• #6

I have two pins in my set, one for the pump, but you can also use a drill bit and the other one with a thread fits in the smaller hole on the small inspection plate for the flywheel, behind the sump. Remove one of the bolts (10mm one If I remember correctly) and this tool screws into the thread when the engine is TDC on number 1 cylinder.

 

F

Festerer

New Member

• Jul 7, 2014

• #7

well today i decided to tackle a few issues with the disco , First i removed the rad (needs replacing no fins left between the cores .

The viscous fan was removed with ease ,swift tap to the right with a 32 mm open end spanner ,lh thred

The bottom pully was a complete bitch to remove , i used 3/4 inch drive 4 foot breaker bar and 27mm impact socket .............snapped a few make shift pully holding tools .3hrs later it was off .

The cambelt looks fine, it has the bottom pully with the side plates aswell ,i can read all the info printed on it still , there is a little oil inside the lower case , and one case bolt (long one) is very oily (is this normal?)
so i suppose i might aswell change it now im this far in